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Forster dies Sizing Buttons.

I have been using Forster Full length dies for years and was wondering if any body knows of a carbide sizing button made for these. I know Reading has one available to eliminate any lubrication but i don't see one for the Forster's. What are your opinions on the best methods to lubricate during this process so that when removing the button out of the case neck the neck or shoulder doesn't get stretched. I have been using a lot of the Forster bushing bump dies lately and they work great.
 
Hey one hole!! The ONLY way the case or case neck will get stretched is if the cases are so hard they REALLY need to be pulled over the expander ball... The BEST (and in my opinion, the right way) to do this is anneal your cases. That will soften them up so they expand a tad to slide over the expander ball. Having said that, I always use a bit of sizing die wax on a Q-tip and wipe the inside of the neck down so it is lubed. I do this whether I am using my dies that have carbide balls or not. When it drags a little (and I mean a little) hard over the ball>>>it is time for annealing.. Some guys anneal every firing>>>I choose to anneal about every 3rd firing. At any rate, those things will keep your brass lasting for a good while... Hope this helps...
 
I agree w/ ShootDots. Except I find lubing the necks faster & easier by applying RCBS case lube to pad (light coverage) then simply pushing the case mouth into the pad to put a small ring of lube on the mouth of the case. I apply just enough to lube the expander so as not to inhibit neck tension when bullet seating. After the 2nd or 3rd case you'll notice the "pull" of the expander lessens & becomes more uniform. Just another twist to the process that works for me. Merry Christmas & good shooting! P.S. I've asked Forster for a carbide expander for years w/ no results and haven't found a suitably sized replacement.
 
Well im glad to see someone else is or was barking up Forsters tree about the carbide button. I do see a lot of guys using the dry lubes made by Redding, & Forster. I'm wondering about the pros and cons of different lubes and lubing techniques.
 
Just a personal observation. The graphite & Mica lubes are kinda messy & using a case neck brush aren't deposited uniformly. I've used RCBS, Forster & Imperial lubes plus some home-brews w/ alox, STP, bee's wax etc when in a bind. The 1st rule would be to use sparingly. I suppose there's something to be said about altering bullet pull when any of these lubes are over used. I'll reserve comment for those who have any factual info to contribute. Subject certainly worthy of discussion as there are so many factors that go into consistency of bullet release & its importance to uniformity of velocity. Just opened a new bottle of Black jack. Lets see what developes :)
 
gotcha said:
Just a personal observation. The graphite & Mica lubes are kinda messy & using a case neck brush aren't deposited uniformly. I've used RCBS, Forster & Imperial lubes plus some home-brews w/ alox, STP, bee's wax etc when in a bind. The 1st rule would be to use sparingly. I suppose there's something to be said about altering bullet pull when any of these lubes are over used. I'll reserve comment for those who have any factual info to contribute. Subject certainly worthy of discussion as there are so many factors that go into consistency of bullet release & its importance to uniformity of velocity. Just opened a new bottle of Black jack. Lets see what developes :)
U betcha! I have been wondering about the same issues. Sometimes you have to inspect every aspect of your techniques and it could be the simplest overlooked step that is causing group growth. Why does this hobby have to be so complicated???
 
I try and always us some sort of lube when doing any sizing, imperial/mica/ graphite. i dont believe in using no lube, i can feel the friction and i do prefer real lube over the powders, it doesnt lie.
But i specifically switched to forster because you can have the necks honed to size and toss the button in your junk box. When i need to clean up necks on new brass i just use a redding button in a redding die, just the button though.
i really dont like forsters buttons, i dont think ive used any i have.
 
When I'm sizing/expanding I've found that q-tips work great. Costo sells them cheap in HUGE quantities.

I've experimented with q-tips and Unique, Q-tips and Imperial, and q-tips with Dillon spray lube (poured from the sprayer into a small "shot glass". Funny, they all seem to work pretty good. The Dillon lube drys off well and not much remains in the neck after a trip through by the expander ball or mandrel. Whatever is left is pretty much spread out evenly but I've taken to using a clean, new, bore mop to do a final cleanup of any remaining lube. I have several "mops" that I just toss in a cloth bag and then run them through the wash with regular clothing. They come out great. If you're in a hurry, a quick "Dry Cleaning" using Brake Kleen will work too.
 
Does anybody have any input on the dry lubes on the market as far as pros and cons. I have tried many of the techniques mentioned and i have settled in on the Hornady one shot spray on a bore mop. It seems to not leave a lot of residue on the brass and i finish up with my lyman prep center and a mop then a brush. Just wondering if i'm over thinking this.
 
Here is something I ran across, CH4D offers a TiN coating process and will coat your expander ball for $12.37. Please read the discalimer for parts other than CH4D.

http://www.ch4d.com/catalog/accessories/TiN
 
KMart said:
Here is something I ran across, CH4D offers a TiN coating process and will coat your expander ball for $12.37. Please read the discalimer for parts other than CH4D.

http://www.ch4d.com/catalog/accessories/TiN
Great find.
 
Why couldnt you drill the forster top nut out and helicoil that to the spindle of your choice that offers a carbide button.
 
jonbearman said:
Why couldnt you drill the forster top nut out and helicoil that to the spindle of your choice that offers a carbide button.

Im not sure it will work due to the way the Forster button rides high. If you dont have that button adjusted correctly it will crush the case. I will have to take some thought into that.
 

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