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Forster Coax press

I decided to retire my rockchucker press after 40 years of use. I purchased a Forster coax b3 after hearing good things about it. My question is will the flat sided hornady lock rings work with the Forster? Will the flat sides affect the centering of the die? Some of my dies are redding without the crossbolt as are some of my rcbs dies. Thanks for the advice.


Maybe I'll give the rockchucker to my son who wants to get his own setup anyway. It has been a great press for me since I started reloading in 1974. ;D

Ken
 
The Hornady lock rings work just fine in my Co-Ax, all they do is hold the die vertically and have nothing to do with centering the die because the die floats, I recommend replacing all set screw lock rings with clamp type, but until that happens the Reddings will work, never tried RCBS lock rings in mine.
 
Ken, I've tried all the lock rings with my Co-Ax and the best are Sinclair stainless steel rings. They fit the press very well and are machined flat and parallel with a very effective cross-bolt. [br]
http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/reloading-dies/replacement-parts-amp-upgrades/sinclair-lock-rings-3pk--prod38782.aspx
 
Got the press set up. I love this press! Wish I had bought one decades ago.
Had an issue with the spent primer tube plugging up but once I cleaned the oil preservative out of it, it has worked perfectly
My son says he will take the 1974 rockchucker.
 
Had an issue with the spent primer tube plugging up but once I cleaned the oil preservative out of it, it has worked perfectly

That's the only failing I can find with the Co-Ax - the tube could be a shade larger diameter for large size primers. The press really is a brilliant design!
 
OP, you asked if the Hornady rings will work, if I had to do it over again, that's what I'd buy. I had a ton of Sinclair rings, most were too big to fit in it, and they wont magnetically stick to a surface grinder, so I couldn't shave some height off them. I bought the Forster's instead, and replaced the Phillips head screws with hex heads, work fine, new ones come with hex heads, I think.

Here's about the best place to buy Forster's;

http://www.gunstop.com/Store/Reloading%20Presses/Forster-Products-Inc/FOR-DIE-G-10-DOZEN
 
milo-2 said:
OP, you asked if the Hornady rings will work, if I had to do it over again, that's what I'd buy. I had a ton of Sinclair rings, most were too big to fit in it, and they wont magnetically stick to a surface grinder, so I couldn't shave some height off them. I bought the Forster's instead, and replaced the Phillips head screws with hex heads, work fine, new ones come with hex heads, I think.

Here's about the best place to buy Forster's;


I too, feel the Foresters are the ones to buy. I have replaced anything that takes a lock ring with these because of the split ring. Others use a lead or nylon device that goes against the threads. ...Obsolete .

http://www.gunstop.com/Store/Reloading%20Presses/Forster-Products-Inc/FOR-DIE-G-10-DOZEN
 
milo-2 said:
OP, you asked if the Hornady rings will work, if I had to do it over again, that's what I'd buy. I had a ton of Sinclair rings, most were too big to fit in it, and they wont magnetically stick to a surface grinder, so I couldn't shave some height off them. I bought the Forster's instead, and replaced the Phillips head screws with hex heads, work fine, new ones come with hex heads, I think.

Here's about the best place to buy Forster's;

http://www.gunstop.com/Store/Reloading%20Presses/Forster-Products-Inc/FOR-DIE-G-10-DOZEN
[br]
I have ~40 Sinclair rings and mine all fit. The rings measure a consistent .315" and my slot is .320". They work well for me. Sorry to learn that you had a problem.
 
SeabeeKen said:
Wish I had bought one decades ago.
T thought the same thing when I got mine! ;D
I prefer the Hornady and bought a bunch to replace the others! Easy to clamp and unclamp for adjustment of shoulder bump. Now I have a bucket of the others!! ::) Enjoy that "Bad Boy"!
 
Just got my new Coax press set up this weekend and after reloading some today, I like it. With the arthritis i have in my thumb, its worth it for the quick change option. I have already ordered the offset linkage arms from Inline Fabrication and installed a short handle. I think I will be good to go. I sold my RC2 but still have a Lee Classic cast iron press for pulling and other tasks.
 
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That's the only failing I can find with the Co-Ax - the tube could be a shade larger diameter for large size primers. The press really is a brilliant design!

I keep a long zip tie handy that is just skinny enough to fit in the tube. I run it down the tube like a dipstick anytime I suspect there might be some stuck in the tube. It generally pushes them out without fuss.
 
So, forgive my ignorance, but what makes the co-ax so much better. I have an old redding T-25 that I'm thinking of changing out, and I need advice on the best single stage for precision. I'm finally to that stage of my game.
 
So, forgive my ignorance, but what makes the co-ax so much better. I have an old redding T-25 that I'm thinking of changing out, and I need advice on the best single stage for precision. I'm finally to that stage of my game.
The Co-ax is one of, if not the strongest press on the market. It can produce something on the order of 100K psi with each stroke. It's configuration allows it to do this with an extremely small amount of deflection, almost none really. The jaws eliminate the need for shell holders, and the dies float so everything self aligns as you push the case into the die and they slide in and out easily. No need for a wrench to change dies. Primers are caught through a tube so no mess on the floor.

There are some draw backs. The priming system on top is accurate and positive, but slow. The clearance between the top of the press and the bottom of the handle might interfere with some taller dies. The jaws are a pain in the ass to change around should you need to flip them around to use the other end.

The Co-ax also has a more narrow range of use. Every die made will fit on a Rockchucker. You generally can't use things like bullet pullers or de-capping dies on a Co-ax. In the case of the latter, the floating system works against you. A de-capping die has to be held centered by the threads.
 
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So, forgive my ignorance, but what makes the co-ax so much better. I have an old redding T-25 that I'm thinking of changing out, and I need advice on the best single stage for precision. I'm finally to that stage of my game.
IMO precision reloads come from FL dies that are mated to your chamber used in a press which allows the cartridge to float as it enters the die. Any single stage press can accomplish this by replacing the shell holder retaining clip with an o-ring. Using the correct die will allow the case to be minimally resized and therefore a press that generates tons of force is not required. The rest is bells and whistles - which do appeal to some , but it comes at a much higher price along with the drawback of not being user friendly when one has to tweak shoulder bump on cases as they work-harden.
 
So, forgive my ignorance, but what makes the co-ax so much better. I have an old redding T-25 that I'm thinking of changing out, and I need advice on the best single stage for precision. I'm finally to that stage of my game.

Watch some YouTube videos and decide if it's right for you.

I don't prime on my press and the jaws are simple to do if you just put a .45 CAP case under the lower platen before you remove them. Take it back out after you're done. Simple takes 30 seconds, a minute at the most.
 
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Watch some YouTube videos and decide if it's right for you.

I don't prime on my press and the jaws are simple to do if you just put a .45 CAP case under the lower plates before you remove them. Take it back out after you're done. Simple takes 30 seconds, a minute at the most.

I'm not picturing what you are saying, could you explain it a little more? I've had my press for close to 15 years and have always taken the plate that holds the jaws all the way off. If you have a better way, I'm listening.
 

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