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Forster Co-ax questions.

I have been using a Hornady single-stage press for occasional reloading for a decade or two, and since I have been made aware of the possibility of case/bullet inconsistencies of concentricity and runout, I was considering purchasing a Forster Co-ax reloading press.

The handle on my Hornady is placed low and to the right, as are most (if not all) of the other presses; however, the Co-ax press has its handle centered.

(1) Does the centered-handle design present problems to the operator, due to the location of its placement---i.e., wouldn't the handle get in the way when depressed in a downward direction?

(2) Should I opt for the purchase of the short-handle (around $20)?

(3) What other pieces would I need to order so that I can adapt my .222, .22-250 and .20 VT dies? (They are all Redding).

I don't know anyone who uses a Forster and have never seen one in operation. If the press lives up to its great reputation for building cartridges with low runout, I am kind of thinking twice about spending an extra $100-$150 for a concentricity gauge.
I don't shoot competition (varmints only), but would still like to optimize my accuracy.
 
I use the Co-ax for body sizing and then for neck sizing only. It is setup to my left (I'm right handed), the scales and the the K&M arbor press for seating bullets is in front of my chair and the powder dumps are to my right. The Co-ax has the longer handle however I grab it half way up. The short handle is not worth the price difference IMHO.

Good luck.
 
FTR, why don't you also use the Co-ax for bullet seating? Is it because you have found that it doesn't reduce bullet runout enough for your shooting purposes (I am kind of getting that you shoot competition)? I would be happy to get .001 (or less) runout, but don't yet want to spend even more money for an arbor press, unless there would be a major advantage in runout reduction from using the arbor over the Co-ax press.

I don't shoot competition (small varmints only), and don't want to put out the extra money to purchase equipment that would go to waste on varmints. I do, however, wish to maximize my accuracy for purposes of varmint hunting with my Remington 40XXBR-based rifles, plus the Cooper .20VarTarg. If the Co-ax will do the trick...fine. If using a K&M for bullet-seating would reduce my groups by .10" more than would the Co-ax, then it really isn't worth the money to buy an arbor press.
 
Definitely consider the shorter handle option. You will have a better "feel" of the process, and the press has enough mechanical advantage with the short handle (except for the largest of cases). You may have an issue with very tall dies because the length may not clear the yoke height. The calibers you mention will post no problems.
It is best to position yourself slightly to the side of the handle's arch, but the press should size cases easily enough that you can use either hand. The self-centering case holder jaws may need to be switched if you load a lot of different calibers. Go to any vendors product specs for more information.

IMO, you shoud get Forster or Sinclair lock rings for those dies.....those lock rings will slide into the rest's slotted frame a lot better than the squared-off redding lock rings.

Any other questions, just PM me.

Jack
 
(1) Does the centered-handle design present problems to the operator, due to the location of its placement---i.e., wouldn't the handle get in the way when depressed in a downward direction?

I am left handed and my Co-Ax is on the RH side of my reloading table, I stand/sit to either side of the handle and size/seat away


(2) Should I opt for the purchase of the short-handle (around $20)?

Nope

(3) What other pieces would I need to order so that I can adapt my .222, .22-250 and .20 VT dies? (They are all Redding).

Forster, or Sinclair lock rings is all that is needed, Hornady lock rings will work too but flop around too much for my taste


I too seat all my ammo with a Arbor press and Wilson inline dies, I just perfer the feel over using the Co-Ax, but it has nothing to do with lower runout, I can make straight ammo with any press, IMHO making concentric ammo has more to do with reloading techniques not the equipment used to make the ammo, at least in my experience. The Co-Ax is not perfect, but it does have at least 3 times the mechanical advantage of any other press, so sizing is much easier, spent primers are contained in a nice easy to empty jar, and no more shell holders to buy, dies float, shells float, die changes are super fast with no loss of adjustment ever, I load 9mm, 40SW, 45acp, 223, 260Rem, 308win, 30-06, 300WM on mine.
 
Brian, since from the reviews I have read from other Forster Co-ax users, bullet runout problems are not an issue. As such, should I also purchase a concentricity gauge (I have been looking at the NECO and 21st Century models), or just size, primer, powder, bullet and expect that any runout issues will be a thing of the past. I'm not using Wilson or other exotic equipment, and from Forster's rave reviews, would hopefully expect the Forster to do its job correctly. I am basically a ground squirrel hunter, loading 200-300 cases at a time for any of the calibers mentioned in my previous posts. As such, I don't spend a huge amount of time on the relative handful of cases as do competition shooters. So...do you advise that I purchase a gauge just to make sure the cartridges are straight, concentric and with minimal runout?
 
I got the short handle for the press, and love it most of the time. If I'm F/L sizing .300WM or .338LM I slide the full-length handle back in there for the interim. Yes you can just choke up on the existing handle, but the ball is much more comfy (for me) than that way.

I know I'm somewhat ambidextrous and sometimes end up doing things bass-ackwards compared to normal 'righties' if 'left' to figure things out on my own... I'm (more or less) right-handed and have the press mounted to my right, so I can operate the press with my dominant hand.

About the only thing that seems to get in the way as compared to operating a regular 'O' frame press is that access from the sides is more limited. Somewhere I remember seeing someone (Larry Medler?) had made up 'L' shaped pieces to replace the straight linkages to give more access from the side. Interesting idea, but not one I've needed to follow up on thus far.

The one thing that has been a source of frustration for me has been that my K&M Expand-iron mandrel body won't fit in a Co-Ax - the body is too fat. I normally just use it in a little Partner press that I clamp to the bench as needed.

Monte
 
Monte, I reload nothing but the small-caliber stuff. I have always liked my old Hornady press handle...mostly because the ball handle fits my old hand really well. Another thing about the Co-ax is that they provide an accessory bullet puller that seems to work well...on YouTube, that is.
 
Bullet pulling is one of those things I'm kind of 'locked into' from before I ever had a Co-Ax. Once upon a time I had some rounds that would not come apart with a kinetic hammer tool, and a local store carries all manner of things from RCBS - so I ended up with one of their setups, and collets for most calibers. Problem is, the tee-handle rotates to tighten the collet, which is not very handy as it is in direct conflict with the Co-Ax yoke. Yet another of those things I keep ye ole' Partner press handy for...

Never played with the Hornady or Forster collet-style bullet pullers - but I would assume the Forster version would work with the Co-Ax as it is their only press...
 
Goofycat said:
Brian, since from the reviews I have read from other Forster Co-ax users, bullet runout problems are not an issue. As such, should I also purchase a concentricity gauge (I have been looking at the NECO and 21st Century models), or just size, primer, powder, bullet and expect that any runout issues will be a thing of the past. I'm not using Wilson or other exotic equipment, and from Forster's rave reviews, would hopefully expect the Forster to do its job correctly. I am basically a ground squirrel hunter, loading 200-300 cases at a time for any of the calibers mentioned in my previous posts. As such, I don't spend a huge amount of time on the relative handful of cases as do competition shooters. So...do you advise that I purchase a gauge just to make sure the cartridges are straight, concentric and with minimal runout?


I think its easier to make concentric ammo with a Co-Ax, but its not a gaurantee, my first bolt gun a Rem 700p had a non concentric chamber, no matter what I did I had .002-.003 run out on the fired brass, all my ammo had run out, I simply couldn't fix that, now I shoot custom chambered barrels and neck turn, fired brass is concentric, my necks are of a uniformed thickness, and I have developed a technique that produces concentric ammo, it not perfect but .001 or less on most rounds. I reload at the range with a Partner Press, my FL die needs a oring under the nut to help float the die a little, different tools, different techniques, same results.
 
I've thought about it, and I think I will get a 21st Century concentricity gauge to check out some of the loaded cartridges I now have. They might be just fine, and if so, I see no reason to get into a supposedly "better" reloading press. If the rounds are not concentric or show excessive runout, I will opt to go with a Co-ax and hope I can reduce the runout to .001...at least. The gauge will allow me to check out the necks for thickness and runout, and hopefully I won't have to mess with the necks. If I do, well....I'll tackle that problem when the time comes.
 
Let's cut to the chase here. For what you are doing there is no better press on the market. I have two and uses then entirely. There are a few jobs you still will want to keep a simple press for but not much. You will love it.
There are coax pullers that are very fast to use. You don't have to switch anything between .223 and mag brass. I can switch from loading one type to another in seconds.
There is no access issue. Some locking rings work better that others but they all work! Sometimes a rubber o-ring helps.
I could go on but you get my opinion. I shoot BR and use this press, run-out is as good as wilson dies or better.
 
I have and recommend the CoAx press - mine is version 2 from Forster - the oldest brown model from Bonanza has the least clearance; the latest 3rd variation has more room under the handle for longer (micrometer style) dies than earlier variations. I think the short handle is handy but I mostly use a more compact press for short handle jobs. The CoAx handles used primers superbly and can prime on press as well as it can be done.

Then again I also have a Harrell's 4 station turret for easy short stroke jobs, a Redding 7 station turret mostly for leaving Redding instant indicators setup, a Hollywood universal turret for big jobs and a few more. For a single stage the CoAx is as good as it gets for the size range.

IMHO trying to buy skill by buying the best equipment without a sound quality assurance process is a snare and a delusion.

First buy or improvise a way to consistently check run out. Then decide if the existing run out is acceptable. If not acceptable then adjust the current process until the runout is acceptable. As noted this might mean a better chamber or maybe a better die or maybe just more attention to case lube or run out on the decapping pin neck expander. I tend to bushing dies and carbide expanders where I use them.

No question in my mind that the CoAx is the best of the single stage presses (for small to medium rifle cartridges that fit well) but without a controlled process it's wasted effort to make the change.
 
Thanks for the replies. I have ordered a 21st Century concentricity gauge and will check some loaded cartridges. If they are acceptable, I will stay with the existing reloading program. If not, I will re-examine my technique. If any problems are attributable to my Hornady single-stage press, it's Co-ax time! 8)
 
My personal experience with my CoAx is that in order to clear my .338 Lapua micrometer seater, I had to cut out a portion of the yoke. About 10 minutes with a hack saw and my 1" belt sander. Cold blue for appearances. Next, I used a hacksaw to get the handle to a length that worked for big and small stuff. Then for the collet bullet puller, I installed a couple of washers and a hex head bolt. I tighten and loosen it with a socket. I prime with a Lee hand primer so I do not use the priming setup on my press. I have put my ammo on a concentricity gauge and it checks out good. I use the large set of jaw plates for the .338 and the regular ones for the rest. I keep a magnet on the side of the press to keep track of Allen wrenches for changing the plates and setting up the dies. I did have an RCBS Ammo Master for the .50 but sold it with the gun in favor of the Lapua.
I am pleased with what I have done and do not need to change anything.
Craig
 

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