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Forster Bushing Bump Dies

Anybody using Forster Bushing Bump dies on a regular basis?? What type of results are you getting from them and after how many firings do you have to full length them??
 
20 to 25+ firings on 22 and 6BR. Still going strong. Bump the shoulders maybe .001 to .002 and you're set. Body die as needed (maybe every 4 th or 5 th firing) if the bolt starts getting snug. Swap the bushings from 6BR to 22, 30, 6.8 or anything in between. One of the best dies out there IMHO, Mike.
 
Wow thats great to hear . I bought 3 sets for the 6br, 243win, and 30-06. I havent got to use them much yet but i am looking forward to playing a little. I plan on loading some rounds with my redding and forster dies and then the same loads with the bushing bump die and see what results i get.
 
NorCalMikie said:
20 to 25+ firings on 22 and 6BR. Still going strong. Bump the shoulders maybe .001 to .002 and you're set. Body die as needed (maybe every 4th or 5th firing) if the bolt starts getting snug. Swap the bushings from 6BR to 22, 30, 6.8 or anything in between. One of the best dies out there IMHO, Mike.

Keep life simple.

One, F/L sizing die, with a bushing cavity, does it all with one pull of the press handle.

And, the bolt ... never ever gets snug, from multi-segmented mutating brass.
 
Outdoorsman said:
NorCalMikie said:
20 to 25+ firings on 22 and 6BR. Still going strong. Bump the shoulders maybe .001 to .002 and you're set. Body die as needed (maybe every 4th or 5th firing) if the bolt starts getting snug. Swap the bushings from 6BR to 22, 30, 6.8 or anything in between. One of the best dies out there IMHO, Mike.

Keep life simple.

One, F/L sizing die, with a bushing cavity, does it all with one pull of the press handle.

And, the bolt ... never ever gets snug, from multi-segmented mutating brass.
I have to agree with Outdoorsman on this one, however some of the most concentric ammo I have ever made was for my 6brx with a Forster bushing bump die in conjunction with a 7mm-08 body die and a Wilson 6br Seating die re cut with my chamber reamer, to be consistent f/l sizing should always be done IMHO.
Wayne.
 
For a custom cut tight chamber, full length resizing every time would be the way to go but for SAAMI (loose) chambers, the less you move the brass around the better. That's why I choose to bump and neck size. Gas guns should be full length resized every time till you figure out what you can get away with. ;) Good thing we don't all think the same. ;D
 
NorCalMikie said:
For a custom cut tight chamber, full length resizing every time would be the way to go but for SAAMI (loose) chambers, the less you move the brass around the better. That's why I choose to bump and neck size. Gas guns should be full length resized every time till you figure out what you can get away with. ;) Good thing we don't all think the same. ;D
Mike,
I respect you as a person and as a accomplished shooter/reloader and I know you feel the same about me, and I agree with you if we all thought exactly the same there would be no need for this forum ;) With that being said I respectfully think your wrong especially about a sloppy old factory chamber and here is why,....nothing is perfect including chambers, oh our smiths try to get them perfect but as I said nothing is and a factory chamber on it's 101st chambering on that reamer slamming through a barrel blank certainly isn't perfectly round, if you were to index the brass EXACTLY how it came out of the egg shaped factory chamber and put it back in EXACTLY the way it came out you could get away with neck sizing only with of course mild loads, I don't know anybody that does that and not many that shoot reduced loads so f/l sizing is necessary ESPECIALLY on a factory chamber! Neck sizing came from early BR and should have stayed there, most of today's top BR shooters have even moved away from n/k sizing ;) If you have a sloppy old chamber and sloppy old rcbs or whatever dies, have your smith open the neck up some and polish the base of the die so it doesn't oversize the brass as bad, or buy a CHEAP Lee collet die and proper size mandrel for it so you don't oversize the neck and use a Redding body die in conjunction with the Lee. These are my thoughts on neck sizing take care and shoot straight Mike,....your friend
Wayne.
 
Wayne: Well said. ;) Maybe you "can" teach an old dog new tricks? You mentioned "Top BR Shooters"? There's a BIG difference between "Top BR Shooters" and the guy that wants an accurate P Dog rifle. I'am not into "custom"chambers for my rigs. I don't compete and have no plans to do so in the near future. With that said, I consider You and a quite a few others on this forum to be "Top BR Shooters" and I appreciate you opinions. Maybe some of it will rub off on me?
I'am always open to other guys opinions because I know they've "been there, done that". The shooting game is a learning process and if we think with closed minds, we'll never learn anything new. I consider You to be one of the Good Guys.
We may agree to disagree but I'am always listening to see what you have to say. Keep talking. 8) Your friend, Mike.
 
NorCalMikie said:
Wayne: Well said. ;) Maybe you "can" teach an old dog new tricks? You mentioned "Top BR Shooters"? There's a BIG difference between "Top BR Shooters" and the guy that wants an accurate P Dog rifle. I'am not into "custom"chambers for my rigs. I don't compete and have no plans to do so in the near future. With that said, I consider You and a quite a few others on this forum to be "Top BR Shooters" and I appreciate you opinions. Maybe some of it will rub off on me?
I'am always open to other guys opinions because I know they've "been there, done that". The shooting game is a learning process and if we think with closed minds, we'll never learn anything new. I consider You to be one of the Good Guys.
We may agree to disagree but I'am always listening to see what you have to say. Keep talking. 8) Your friend, Mike.
Thanks Mike and ditto ;)
Wayne.
 
NorCalMikie said:
For a custom cut tight chamber, full length resizing every time would be the way to go but for SAAMI (loose) chambers, the less you move the brass around the better. That's why I choose to bump and neck size.

"The less you move the brass around the better" IS absolutely correct ... regardless of chamber size.

When you full length size, regardless of chamber size, you're pushing the shoulder down about .001", pushing it inward about .0005" and pushing in the base/head area about .001", and squeezing down the neck/neck sizing a requisite distance, each time you pull the handle on the press. To do all of that, you need only one die.

Full Length Sizing each and every time you reload will ensure: 1. The brass is worked very little [it's not frequency, but distance we're talking about], 2. You'll always be able to chamber your perfectly dimensioned round, and 3. You'll only need one die [preferably a bushing die].
 

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