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Forming 6x47 Lapua brass

Last night I was FL resizing virgin 6x47 lapua cases from the 6.5x47 case. I was lubing the cases and using a Forester FL sizing die 6x47 Lapua. (No bushing) After running the cases through the sizer, the end of the necks were canted in some cases. (Sloped) I then trimmed them all to the same length and that seemed to take the canted edge off the end of the neck. Is this normal? Mind you this is the first time I ever necked down cases in my shooting career so I'm assuming the extra neck diameter has to go somewhere... I should have taken a picture of the case but I forgot. I can post one this evening if necessary. This is not a competition rifle or anything. It will be used for varmint and target shooting so I'm not looking for miracles. Thanks,

Chris
 
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Last night I was FL resizing virgin 6x47 lapua cases from the 6.5x47 case. I was lubing the cases and using a Forester FL sizing die 6x47 Lapua. (No bushing) After running the cases through the sizer, the end of the necks were canted in some cases. (Sloped) I then trimmed them all to the same length and that seemed to take the canted edge off the end of the neck. Is this normal? Mind you this is the first time I ever necked down cases in my shooting career so I'm assuming the extra neck diameter has to go somewhere... I should have taken a picture of the case but I forgot. I can post one this evening if necessary. This is not a competition rifle or anything. It will be used for varmint and target shooting so I'm not looking for miracles. Thanks,

Chris
If you mean the necks are deformed slightly or even smaller in diameter than die, I have seen this when sizing down drastically. I suspect a degree of "stovepiping". The mouth of case slightly folds inward. I'v seen this when chamber neck diameter several thousand over loaded neck Dia requiring several thousand resizing. A PITA but resize in stages and seems to avoid what i'v described.
 
If you mean the necks are deformed slightly or even smaller in diameter than die, I have seen this when sizing down drastically. I suspect a degree of "stovepiping". The mouth of case slightly folds inward. I'v seen this when chamber neck diameter several thousand over loaded neck Dia requiring several thousand resizing. A PITA but resize in stages and seems to avoid what i'v described.

Yes the necks are deformed as you stated. I wasn't sure exactly how to explain it. Should I trim the cases or anything before running them through the FL sizer? Unfortunately I don't have any other dies for this cartridge to neck down in steps. I'm assuming once these cases have been fired this problem will go away then.
 
I never really had much problem, but did them in two steps. My die set had a Type "S" bushing neck die and a body die. I ran them through the body die first and it took them down ALMOST all of the way, and I finished off with the neck die.

Very easy process.

I do remember a friend forming them about 8 years ago with "normal" dies and he was getting a "bell" shape at the case mouth. I never had that problem.

Any deformities will "blow away" when fired.

Good luck,
Tod
 
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Yes the necks are deformed as you stated. I wasn't sure exactly how to explain it. Should I trim the cases or anything before running them through the FL sizer? Unfortunately I don't have any other dies for this cartridge to neck down in steps. I'm assuming once these cases have been fired this problem will go away then.
Trim after FL sizing. The first firing could be hotter than later firings as these deformed necks might be smaller in diameter resulting in a tighter bullet grip (neck tension). If you have a 6mm neck expander, run it thru neck and deformity is ironed away. After first firing the resizing die usually resizes neck nicely, assuming your chamber's neck is not excessive.
 
Thanks for the info. I'll get a 6mm neck expander it sounds like.

I wouldn't bother if as you say you're target/varmint shooting and not looking for miracles. I would fire them once, inside neck ream then resize and trim. That's the way I've done several hundred and it's worked well for target and varmint shooting.
 
I wouldn't bother if as you say you're target/varmint shooting and not looking for miracles. I would fire them once, inside neck ream then resize and trim. That's the way I've done several hundred and it's worked well for target and varmint shooting.

Why would you bother to inside neck ream? Just curious.

Paul
 
Why would you bother to inside neck ream? Just curious.

Paul
I use the Forster inside reamer that they recommend doing after firing/before resizing. I think it cleans up the inside of the neck. You can feel the cutter catching the high spots when doing it and when seating bullets it feels like they seat more uniformly and seating depth seems a little more consistent.

You could certainly skip this step but it's something I like to do to my brass after necking down and fire forming.
 
I'm curious about this problem myself. I just ordered 100 pieces Lapua 6.5x47 brass, & a Forster FL sizing die, to make cases for a new 6x47 build thats in the works.. Most places I've read(on the good old internet) say the Forster FL die is 'the' way to go. Should I be thinking about a Redding bushing die to take those necks down at a lesser degree each pass???? I've got plenty of time before my new rifle is done so I'll be able to experiment some. Just wondering if anyone else here has had these problems forming 6x47 cases? Thanks for any info! Idaho-45
 
Yes the necks are deformed as you stated. I wasn't sure exactly how to explain it. Should I trim the cases or anything before running them through the FL sizer? Unfortunately I don't have any other dies for this cartridge to neck down in steps. I'm assuming once these cases have been fired this problem will go away then.
Firing will aleeve
I'm curious about this problem myself. I just ordered 100 pieces Lapua 6.5x47 brass, & a Forster FL sizing die, to make cases for a new 6x47 build thats in the works.. Most places I've read(on the good old internet) say the Forster FL die is 'the' way to go. Should I be thinking about a Redding bushing die to take those necks down at a lesser degree each pass???? I've got plenty of time before my new rifle is done so I'll be able to experiment some. Just wondering if anyone else here has had these problems forming 6x47 cases? Thanks for any info! Idaho-45
No, a regular die way better to neck down with, bushings usually put a bell on the case mouth, can't say what it affects but looks ugly.
A Forster, Whidden(my fav), or a Redding will all get the job done.
 
I'm curious about this problem myself. I just ordered 100 pieces Lapua 6.5x47 brass, & a Forster FL sizing die, to make cases for a new 6x47 build thats in the works.. Most places I've read(on the good old internet) say the Forster FL die is 'the' way to go. Should I be thinking about a Redding bushing die to take those necks down at a lesser degree each pass???? I've got plenty of time before my new rifle is done so I'll be able to experiment some. Just wondering if anyone else here has had these problems forming 6x47 cases? Thanks for any info! Idaho-45
The method that works best for me goes like this:
1. Pull expander ball off a reg die and neck down.
2. Run the case through appropriate expander die.
3. Now retension the neck with a bushing die and the size bushing you feel works best.
Now with all that working of brass, you will want to anneal after the first firing.
 
I get the "bell shape" on the end of my wildcat cases most of the time. I just run my cases through a neck turning expander and it goes away.
 
4xforfun is dead right.

I tried the Forster Fl die and despite plenty of ISW, it ruined about one in two cases. Using the 6x47 body die first then the Redding neck-sizer bushing die produced the perfect result.
 
I am going to run 6.5x47L case through fl 6x47 forester die then run through exspander and cut the necks to 13 thousands. This will make the necks perfectly round always mic with ball mic. Then us redding fl type s bushing die with 266 Wilson bushing your set. Job done if trimming is need I will do that with all this it has very little slop
 
This will make perfect cases for you.
1.) Run the 6.5 cases thru a 6.5 expander mandrel. This will make straight and the case mouths round.
2.) OUTSIDE chamfer the case mouths. This knocks the "edge" off, aiding in alignment to the BODY die on the next step.
3.) Lube the ENTIRE case all the way up the shoulder AND neck.
4.) Run the 6.5 x 47 case into a 6 x 47 body die. This will form perfect 6 x 47 brass, albeit with thicker neck walls.
5.) Run the body sized case into a F/L die with a .265 bushing. This will "tighten up" the neck.
6.) Run the cases now into a 6mm expander mandrel to push the imperfections to the outside of the case.
7.) Turn the necks down to your desired thickness or at least til they leave enough room in the chamber neck area.
NOTE: there MAY be a tiny "bulge" at the juncture of the neck and shoulder. This little bulge should be turned off at the step of neck turning.
8.) Anneal the brass.
9.) Run back thru the mandrel, use Imperial Dry Neck Lube on the INSIDE of the case neck. Use a Q-Tip to apply.
10.) Prime, charge and seat the bullet. PERFECT brass!
 
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All this fancy work and the 6x47L still won’t shoot with the BR wildcats.

If you are shooting it in BR then sure get all fancy with 10 steps or a stepped neck bushing. If not, then just neck them down in a 6x47L Redding FL bushing die in two steps. First, with no bushing and second with your bushing of choice. In the past I used a Forster FL non-bushing die but that method yielded too much run out. Redding FL bushing die is much better.
 
I dont have any issues described above with my whidden bushing die. Since the necks will thicken up i turn them as a 6.5 just enough to clean em up 90% then fl size them without the bushing then with the final bushing. Then i turn them again to clean up 95% and have never had any collapsed or belled necks. My cases are perfectly straight even before the first firing. Use 3 steps if necessary but the trick is dont let them get too thick
 

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