Forming 222x35 brass

[XXPER]

I need to bump the shoulder back on 222 brass to form 222x35 brass. My thoughts are use a 221 fireball sizing die or maybe a 221 form/trim die.All suggestions welcomed

Thank you, Jim

 

[Ggmac]

I would use a 6mm die first than the 221 . Maybe even a 300 blackout then a 6 then the 221 . Only way to tell is to try . I use to make 6 br from 3006 . I finally bought form dies . But , I had it using 4o carbide then 35 then 30 then 7 and finally 6 . With the form dies it was a 3 die forming process . It was necessary to use the 40 , 35 , 7,6 to prevent shoulder collapse .

 

[XXPER]

I would use a 6mm die first than the 221 . Maybe even a 300 blackout then a 6 then the 221 . Only way to tell is to try . I use to make 6 br from 3006 . I finally bought form dies . But , I had it using 4o carbide then 35 then 30 then 7 and finally 6 . With the form dies it was a 3 die forming process . It was necessary to use the 40 , 35 , 7,6 to prevent shoulder collapse .

 

[bheadboy]

back in the dark ages (1971-76) Ted Boughtin of Rochester, used a 222 1/2 he made a reamer for that was a 222m case with a 222 neck and shoulder. he and others competed with it, it did very well in Br and others copied it for a few years. a little higher velocity and very accurate - blend of the 222m and 222

that is the only 222 1/2 I am aware of.

Bob

 

[JohnHenry]

If your 222-35 is the one in the attached link, why do you have to bump the 222 shoulder back? From the picture it appears that the 222-35 shoulder/neck junction is forward of the standard 222.

http://www.6mmbr.com/compcartridges.html

 

[XXPER]

I am just trying to push the 222 23 deg shoulder back far enough to chamber and then fire form the shoulder forward to form a 35 deg shoulder.
My problem is a 222 die will not push the shoulder back far enough to chamber and fire form.
Jim

 

[XXPER]

If your 222-35 is the one in the attached link, why do you have to bump the 222 shoulder back? From the picture it appears that the 222-35 shoulder/neck junction is forward of the standard 222.

http://www.6mmbr.com/compcartridges.html

My 222x35 chamber will not allow me to chamber a neck turned 222 and fire form it to match the one shown in your link. That is why I think I have to set the shoulder back possibly using a 221 fire ball die before fire forming it.
Jim

 

[Ggmac]

If you only have to go a few thou try the 221 . The only way to tell is to try . Each chamber , reamer , headspace is going to be diff enough to not give any definitive answers unless the same smith chambered the same type barrel and receiver and the same brass . Receiver for the cramming strength , flex etc barrel and chamber for dimensions , and smith for set up runout .

 

[Ggmac]

Do you have 22-35 dies ?

 

[dedogs]

I need to bump the shoulder back on 222 brass to form 222x35 brass. My thoughts are use a 221 fireball sizing die or maybe a 221 form/trim die.All suggestions welcomed

Thank you, Jim

Jim, I'm not sure your idea would work because a .221 Fire ball measures .361 @ the shoulder/neck junction while a .222 measures smaller (.357). The sides of the .222 case would not be supported and may collapse. I have looked in J.J. Donnelley's book and there doesn't seem to be a way to do this without form dies. Ken Howell's book was no help either.dedogs

 

[XXPER]

Do you have 22-35 dies ?

I have wilson neck dies and a wilson seater but nothing to set the shoulder back

 

[centershot]

I have a .222x35 that I currently am shooting. I Take .222 Lapua brass, turn the neck to allow .0015" clearance and then load it so it head spaces on the overall length with the bullet engaging the lands. I do not have to bump a shoulder. You are blowing out the shoulder. Why do you think that you have to "bump" it?

 

[XXPER]

I have a .222x35 that I currently am shooting. I Take .222 Lapua brass, turn the neck to allow .0015" clearance and then load it so it head spaces on the overall length with the bullet engaging the lands. I do not have to bump a shoulder. You are blowing out the shoulder. Why do you think that you have to "bump" it?

With new neck turned and neck sized 222 RWS brass I can not close the bolt, it will not even start to cam down. I have some fire formed brass that chambers very hard and the bolt lift is hard with the click on the very top.I may have to shorten the shell holder or take some off the bottom of the 222 fl sizing die.

 

[Ggmac]

At some point your going to need a full length sizer to bump the shoulder , especially if your having hard chambering of fireformed brass. I agree that it should chamber now but your chamber , headspace dimensions must be a little tight . Any chance of finding the smith and the reamer used to adjust the chamber so this doesn't become an expensive headache for you ?

 

[XXPER]

At some point your going to need a full length sizer to bump the shoulder , especially if your having hard chambering of fireformed brass. I agree that it should chamber now but your chamber , headspace dimensions must be a little tight . Any chance of finding the smith and the reamer used to adjust the chamber so this doesn't become an expensive headache for you ?

The rifle was build by Hart in the early 1990s . I think I will try and shorten a 222 fl die and see if that will work.Thanks to all that had suggestions.
Jim

 

[dedogs]

The rifle was build by Hart in the early 1990s . I think I will try and shorten a 222 fl die and see if that will work.Thanks to all that had suggestions.
Jim

Wouldn't it be cheaper to shorten a shell holder? Then if it doesn't work, you'd still have a die that was good. dedogs

 

[JohnHenry]

With new neck turned and neck sized 222 RWS brass I can not close the bolt, it will not even start to cam down. I have some fire formed brass that chambers very hard and the bolt lift is hard with the click on the very top.I may have to shorten the shell holder or take some off the bottom of the 222 fl sizing die.

I have no experience with RWS 222 brass so excuse my question if dumb. Are you sure your issue is at the shoulder and not the base diameter of the RWS brass?

 

[centershot]

I have no experience with RWS 222 brass so excuse my question if dumb. Are you sure your issue is at the shoulder and not the base diameter of the RWS brass?

This is a very good question! If you like, I could send you a few pieces of my fire formed brass, not Lapua, to see if they will go into your rifle.

 

[XXPER]

This is a very good question! If you like, I could send you a few pieces of my fire formed brass, not Lapua, to see if they will go into your rifle.

This is a very good question! If you like, I could send you a few pieces of my fire formed brass, not Lapua, to see if they will go into your rifle.

Center shot Thank you for your offer of your brass. I took a #4 shell holder and reduced its height by 25 thousands. I was then able to bump the 222 shoulder back far enough to chamber it. Thanks again to all that replied.
Jim