Ford type F for chambering

[jscandale]

I talked to Dave Kiff at PTG and he advised me to add Ford type F to my normal black sulphur cutting oil by 20%. He said the finish is excellent. Any body have any experience with this method?

Thanks,
JS

 

[clowdis]

What is it, transmission fluid?

 

[JayCutright]

I use 1 qt of Type F to each gallon of Mobilmet 766 for all my cutting, threading & chambering.
It works for me.

I used to have an old Ford pick-up with a 429 in it that had been rebuilt using parts from Performance Automotive Wholesale. Every now & then (if I was running it hard) a hydraulic lifter would collapse and I would have to dump in a qt of Type F to get it right again. I ended up using 1qt Type F and 4qts motor oil every time I changed my oil & never had another problem with it.
It must have a high lubricity or something.

 

[spclark]

What is it, transmission fluid?

Yep:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_Type_F_ATF.aspx

 

[clowdis]

Maybe I'll get some of that and give it a try. Should be a little less expensive than the Brownells do-drill that I've been using. Thanks

 

[jscandale]

Just be sure to mix only 20% to your normal cutting oil. I am told too much is no good.

JS

 

[kendog]

I tried it. Didn't notice any difference in finish, which has always been good, but it seems to "stick" better to the surfaces. And it gives off a distinct smell which is OK too.
4 gal Oatey Dark thread cutting oil/1/2 gal ATF.
Any dark,high sulfur oil seems to work well. Do-Drill is priced just slightly lower than Chanel No. 5.

 

[SDWhirlwind]

Perhaps I am just an idiot but Dave told me to use Type F about 3yrs ago but didn't mention mixing it with anything. Have cut 8-9 chambers using it straight after I got up enough courage to give it a try,lol. Was using Do Drill prior, now don't have the Do Drill stink and finish is as good as or perhaps better with straight Type F. Didn't ask Dave about reamer life but I have no plans on ever wearing out a particular reamer anyhoo.

 

[jscandale]

Perhaps I am just an idiot but Dave told me to use Type F about 3yrs ago but didn't mention mixing it with anything. Have cut 8-9 chambers using it straight after I got up enough courage to give it a try,lol. Was using Do Drill prior, now don't have the Do Drill stink and finish is as good as or perhaps better with straight Type F. Didn't ask Dave about reamer life but I have no plans on ever wearing out a particular reamer anyhoo.

You say that you did use straight Type F? Dave actually advised against using it straight, but you say it works pretty well. I wonder what ingredients are in the stuff that makes it work so well? I never would have guessed. I currently use some heavy dark sulphur cutting oil that I got from McMaster. Seems to work pretty well.

JS

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

FWIW, an old machinist told me of his mix he uses, I have been using it for years and works well....ATF and high sulphur diesel, cheap too.

 

[WayneShaw]

Man that would stink!

 

[jscandale]

How many miles per gallon does the lathe get?

JS

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

LOL, will let you know the mpg on the lathe

 

[Tozguy]

Just wondering if the ATF suggestion applies for Dexron also? I have been using Dexron for cutting oil for longer than I can remember and it always worked great.

 

[kendog]

Just wondering if the ATF suggestion applies for Dexron also? I have been using Dexron for cutting oil for longer than I can remember and it always worked great.

My question also. What is different between the two, as far as cutting goes?

 

[SDWhirlwind]

Can't remember off hand the difference but in my discussions with Dave K he he stated "Type F" and I asked again to make sure! Like I said perhaps I am doing something wrong but have absolutely no gripes about cutting speed, finish etc. He claims the steel in his reamers cut best around 200rpm and with the ATF. Again this was 3yrs ago last month when I had chatter issues while building my first 6XC and using his reamer in a Rock tube. Was cutting around 80rpm with Do Drill. Followed his suggestions for "wax paper", ATF and 'faster', cleaned the chamber right up. Maybe I was lucky Have used it exclusively ever since on a 3 6x47L's, couple 308's, 6.5x47L, 6TCU, another 6XC just a couple weeks ago etc with Rock, Obermeyer, Krieger, Broughton, Douglas barrels. Probably not a good test but I only do stuff for myself, twin brother and a couple other relatives/friends anymore seeing as I no longer have my FFL. Sure is cheaper by the quart than Do Drill!!!!

 

[Rustystud]

When using a High Presure Flush System there are two schools of thought.
One is using and higher horse power (1/2 to 1.hp) gear head pump and using thicker coolant lubricants with higher sulfer content.(GreTan and others)

Another is to follow the advice of the coolant lubricant lubricant engineers.(Rustlic) Who reccomend a synthetic or semi synthetic extreme pressure water soliuable coolant lubricant. A 3:1 ratio of distilled water and Rustlic 255R produces a coolant liquid with the consistency of whole milk. With a 1/3 horsepower 3/8" gearhead pump one can push coolant lubricant at 35 to 125 psi and push out all your chips and get both great tool wear chamber finish.

When chambering the older conventional way Bob Pasters Vipers Venom or Ridgid Black threading oil is hard to beat.

Nat Lambeth

 

[jscandale]

Nat,

I don't use a flush system but have always been interested in it. I have always heard the water soluble oil will wear out a reamer quicker than black oil. What are your thoughts on that?

Thanks,
JS

 

[Rustystud]

My 308 95 Palma, 6mmBR, 6mmBRX and 6mm Dasher all have close to 2000 chambers cut without a sharpening. Last year while at Trinidad Speedy told me he had over 1600 chambers on a 6mmBR reamer and he uses the cut and clean method.
Nat

 

[jscandale]

Wow! Thanks for the info.

JS