FN Mauser project stock dilemma

[pbslinger]

I'm working on a really cool rifle build. In fact its my first rifle build but I'm not your average home tinkerer. The project was started in the 50's or 60's by a gunsmith in Ohio, and I bought it from his nephew last fall. The action is a never fired gunsmith FN Mauser Deluxe without any markings other than a small FN in an oval and Made in Belgium, both under the stock line. It has a light varmint 22-250 barrel installed, likely a good one. The stock is really special. The nephew said it was a AAA blank of tiger maple, and I'm sure it is really going to pop when it gets some finish on it.

The stock is kind of target stock with a wide, long and flat fore end. It goes straight forward from the mag well where a sporting stock angles up toward the muzzle. The bottom metal has a slope up toward the muzzle which doesn't match the straightness of the stock. If I followed the angle of the bottom metal all the way to the fore end tip, I'd likely have to remove up to 1/2" of wood at the fore end.

My solution to this is I'm thinking about making a gentle chamfer in the wood to intersect with the bottom metal for the forward half of the bottom metal. I'd draw a line with a divider about a half inch around the front half of the mag box and forward tang, and make a gentle slope or scallop in the wood.

I hope I have been able to explain what I'm talking about and would like your opinion on this approach and if you have other ideas. Thanks

 

[Preacher]

Just make it so it pleases your eye, and have right at it....

 

[Ggmac]

A little off the topic , borescope your barrel , if it does not say douglass on it . A lot of mailorder companys were selling that FN mauser with Apex, high std , shaw , etc etc. ( Johnson , just came to mind ) they were not what you would even consider a production barrel equal by todays std. Im not saying that all were bad , just not what you would want today , thats why the recomondation to borescope it. Also the 22-250 before SAAMI std ized it had many dimensional diff. Now to your question , the trig guard was usually recessed an flush with wood then forend would bulge on sides and bottom.

 

[pbslinger]

Ggmac - There is some writing on the breech end of the barrel, some of it obscured by the action. Wish I had a some kind of viewer to get a better look at the markings, can't get a loupe or other magnifier down there. My form of scoping will be "proof in the pudding" as in how it groups. The only markings on the side of the barrel is the gunsmith's name and under that "CUSTOM GUNSMITH"

Also on the breech end of the barrel is the caliber designation: 22-250. I'm going to assume this meant the gunsmith bought the barrel short chambered if he actually installed it. I've already verified it isn't AI or for turned necks.

What are some other names of reputable barrel makers besides Douglas from 50 years ago?

I'm not following you on this, can you explain? Thanks.

"the trig guard was usually recessed an flush with wood then forend would bulge on sides and bottom."

 

[pbslinger]

I performed the stock shaping around the bottom metal as I discussed. It turned out great and was definitely the right way to solve the problem. The beveling actually started at the rear of the mag well and the way I sanded it in it is more rounded than a flat bevel or chamfer. It looks good and I like it.

 

[Ggmac]

Sorry if it did not make sense , what I meant to say was the trig guard is fitted into the action , so looking inside ,no gap is visible between the action and trig guard . The wood is then made flush with the foward trig guard screw area , then the forend ( beavertail ) being wider and deeper than trig guard area is blended , either flat for benchrest or oval for a compination of bench and offhand shooting . Some taper the forend I prefer a flat , parallel to the bore , its just easier for me to use . I hope this is a little better.
Barrel makers , ERShaw , McGowen , shilen ,hart , apex ,johnson , weatherby , Mann , Im sure Im forgetting at least as many as Ive listed.
Good luck , and dont be suprized if it shoots GREAT !

 

[pbslinger]

Thanks Ggmac - Now that I'm nearly done I found someone with experience with fitting 98 actions into target and varmint stocks. Happy my solution after much pondering seems to follow convention.

Even though you want near no gap between action and mag well, you have to leave some gap to ensure the wood between is clamped.

 

[shortgrass]

Thanks Ggmac - Now that I'm nearly done I found someone with experience with fitting 98 actions into target and varmint stocks. Happy my solution after much pondering seems to follow convention.

Even though you want near no gap between action and mag well, you have to leave some gap to ensure the wood between is clamped.

I've wood stocked more than a 'few' Mauser rifles and always leave a small gap, about the thickness of a scale, between bottom metal (magazine box) and receiver for 'compression'.

 

[Ggmac]

If you follow factory Mauser you should use the rear pillar that all military and commercial mausers use , alond with the foward screw fitted snug into the recesses alredy machined into the trig guard and rec rec lug.

 

[jonbearman]

Have a gunsmith do a chamber cast and measure it against the dimensions of todays commercial 22-250 to make sure you can get the right dies and brass to properly fit the chamber.