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Floating Reamer holder verse rigid.

Does anyone use a non floating reamer holder? When my flush system is done I'm thinking of trying it on the first barrel. There are several ways to put a ridged holder on dead center. Every bit as much a we can get the bore. I've thought of using a 2-4-6 block on the carriage dialed in straight and perpendicular with an ER32 fixture that again can be dialed in with an indicator swung in the chuck
 

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Does anyone use a non floating reamer holder? When my flush system is done I'm thinking of trying it on the first barrel. There are several ways to put a ridged holder on dead center. Every bit as much a we can get the bore. I've thought of using a 2-4-6 block on the carriage dialed in straight and perpendicular with an ER32 fixture that again can be dialed in with an indicator swung in the chuck

Why would be my first question? A rigid set-up, if not dead nuts instantly turns into a boring bar, guaranteeing an oversized chamber. Dialing in left to right is easy, up and down, not so much. Getting the popcorn ready!
Paul
 
I've several images from a borescope of non-concentric chambers cut by companies who seemed to have the same philosophy. Is it possible? Yes. Is it reliable? The evidence shows that it is not.
 
LRI did, not sure if they still do. There’s another guy around (can’t remember which forums or user name right now) that does as well. He doesn’t post a whole lot but has been around for a long time. Doesn’t Short Action Customs do this too?

Edit: I’m talking CNC lathes which the OP appears to be using. Also most of whom I’ve seen using a rigid setup aren’t adjustable. They were bored in place.
 
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LRI did, not sure if they still do. There’s another guy around (can’t remember which forums or user name right now) that does as well. He doesn’t post a whole lot but has been around for a long time. Doesn’t Short Action Customs do this too?
I think it was John at Area 419 that had a block on the crosslide of his engine lathe. That was a while back
 
Don't do it. Getting it dialed in in x and y in one place is not easy but doable. Getting it parallel to the axis of the spindle so it is dialed in as the carridge moves is a problem. Having to repeat the alignment for every barrel would be a real pita. What does the rigid setup gain you?
 
Controlling the feed rate becomes more difficult vs a handwheel on the tailstock. As others have mentioned alignment will be inconsistent. Not all collets and collet holders are perfect. You could probably change reamers and it would change. Also you lose all tactile feedback from holding it rigid. The carriage handwheel on my Clausing is graduated in .010" increments vs .001" on the tailstock. That might tell you something. I don't use a reamer holder. I use a pusher that lets the reamer self center. In a CNC production setting yes hold the reamer rigid or in a floating collet holder designed for that type of machine work. I have several I purchased when I got my Haas. Never got past paying the credit card bill.
 
I guess after 30 years in tooling and prototyping I over think things. Its the nature of my business. I was between Jobs so bolted this set up together. Now the ER chuck it attached I can put it on the lathe and set it up in 5-10 minutes. The drill blank has .0002" taper on the end toward the headstock. Came out OK but I expected better. Probably stick with the floater.
 
Is it the blank- or is it tailstock tilt? No matter, still pretty damn good. I know my TS base has a lot more wear than that...
The blank measured before putting in the collet was .0002" smaller at one end. That's why there is .0002" TIR equally on each side of Zero at the left end and nearly Zero at the tailstock end. I think you meant the collet chuck tilt because its not in the tailstock. My Lathe has no tail stock tilt. Lock down your tailstock with the quill retracted, dial the MT inside, crank the quill out all the way out and dial the inside again. It should stay zero, if not that is how much drift there is between the headstock and tailstock axis's. I might try this solid holder set up for no reason other than being able to use the Z readout and program a peck cycle to maintain a .0015 per flute feed rate. It dialed in pretty good this way but from the tailstock with a floating holder has always done well for me. I'll just be excited to finish a flush system for now.
 
I'm still thinking I can get it better. Whipped this up. An MT4 Boring head holder, Made a face plate with large enough bolt holes to float the ER32 chuck, Loctite together, put in my MT4 spindle adapter and turn and face it so its true to the taper. I'll use a tailstock stop on the bed and indicate the ER32 holder in and tighten it up. I'm sorry to attempt such a work around to avoid a floating holder but I hate fiddling with a floating holder getting it in position without dragging it on the chamber walls.
EDIT. Forgot to mention the only ER32 collets anyone should use are Rego-Fix or Haimer
 

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Just get a JGS
Does it take any wiggling by hand to find the chamber and center up? Do you stop the spindle each peck and insert reamer close to depth like I did when I was using my floating reamer with out a flush system? I used to help the reamer in so it did not drag on the side wall of the chamber. That was always my concern. Starting the spindle up with the reamer not up to the cut but hanging low and rubbing.
 

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