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First time reloader!

:rolleyes::D:p Has it occurred to anyone else that the OP, Jason312 hasn't popped back in to comment or thank us for the "brilliant advice" that we've heaped upon him.

Could it be that we've morphed the thread from his question of whether he is safe to shoot the loads that he has assembled -- to which electronic scale he should buy.;)

Methinks we are just tooooo helpful. jd


Thanks there cowboy. Not that it is your concern but I went out of town for a family thing.....I'm here now.
 
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I have not measured from the lans. just trying to load a big more accurate round. thought that would be a good start. You know?
Well if you're using the Lee reloading book I can say for a fact that mine states MINIMUM COAL but means MAXIMUM. I've measured several factory loaded ammunition and all is below Lees "minimum". As a base I'd start seating a bit lower then their min suggestion.
 
what rifle do you have ?
std length for 308 is 2.800
the gun should function there.
i have a bunch of lee hand loaders,
my suggestion is buy a hand priming tool
beating primers into place always leads to
one going off


I have a browning A-bolt. Me being a newbie I could have measured something wrong but who knows. I agree I don't much like beating those things in!
 
Jason312, I'm not going to comment on your question, you have already had some very good suggestions. What I want to say is that I commend you for being man enough to realize that you are getting into something that has some inherent dangers and you did not hesitate to ask questions to help you gain knowledge and understanding. I have seen a couple of pretty bad injuries from mistakes made by somebody that thought they new what they were doing. (30+ years working with street level EMS)


Thank you for the remarks. I really do not want to blow me or my rifle up!
 
That charge in the low 40s shouldnt give you any issues. Should be a pretty close to minimal load.

Im more curious what rifle youre shooting out of that 2.8 wont fit in a mag. It should fit with plenty of room to spare on everything Ive ever seen.


Ive got a browning a-bolt. I could have been doing something wrong for all I know.
 
I also started my reloading hobby with the Lee Loaders. My first one for rifle was in 243 Win. I'm looking at it right now, and the price tag says $10.99.
This may be shocking to many folks, but back in those days, most reloaders paid no mind to COAL, except to duplicate a factory round, or to provide good fit and feed through your magazine and action port. Indeed, the instructions in the Lee Loader kit tell you to simply duplicate a factory round when setting your seating depth.
I produced many great reloads with this kit, and soon improved my equipment with an Ohaus scale, and a verneer caliper - and a growing library of reloading manuals.
One can only assume that if you follow the recipe card in the kit that you will be safe with the charge weight (or volume) with the proper powder and bullet weight listed.

My recommendation would be to get a good manual such as the Lyman, with which to learn more advanced techniques, and ways of improving your reloads. You will soon advance to higher tech and higher volume equipment, but I'll bet that like me, you will always look upon your Lee Loader days with fondness. jd


Well, that is exactly what I would like to do. I will be getting better equipment as I go but this is what I have for now. I do have a hornady manual but the imr 4064 is not listed under that grain of bullet. SO I am working with what I have at this time and am glad that you all are helping me out.
 
Jason, this is TO YOU specifically...... It is not to add to nor subtract from any other posts.

Congratulations on your attitude. The cheap reloading kit is FINE, and you're RELOADING!!

Welcome.

Now, that said, it is important to realize this RULE, "As Bullet Weight Goes Up, Powder Weight Goes DOWN!" (until you switch powders of course)

It seems that you've indicated that you are using dipper 3.1 for both bullets, wts of 150gr and 178gr. I'm not saying that in your case it's dangerous because you're running moderate loads but once you start raising pressures, making the components WORK, you can get into trouble if you're not aware of this curve.

And another RULE, never change any component without backing down and starting over. I've been guilty of this more than once. I once got into trouble simply from changing brands of primer....... AFTER getting away with it for tens of thousands of rounds.

As far as bullets hanging down into the case, don't fret. I've got accurate 600yd and 1K loads that hang down well below the n/s junction. Just remember to start over, safe and low and work up.

Please just don't get into the habit of switching components without verification.


Thank you so much for the reply and the advice!
 
havent seen a reply from OP. I started reloading with a scoop made from a cartridge case with a copper wire handle soldered to it. You dont say if you have one but if you dont and youre going to reload much at all you need a good scale. I suggest a good beam for starters.


Sorry for the delay I had a family thing this weekend in Ky. And I do not have a scale right now just bought the lee loader kit and the new products to get the job done. starting from the bottom ya know?
 
Well if you're using the Lee reloading book I can say for a fact that mine states MINIMUM COAL but means MAXIMUM. I've measured several factory loaded ammunition and all is below Lees "minimum". As a base I'd start seating a bit lower then their min suggestion.


well you seem to be the only one that is willing to help so thanks for that. is the set up I have right now good to go? please forgive my ignorance!! here the thing I am messing myself up because I am using the lee chart and trying to compare it to the hornady book. the lee chart has 4064 in it but the hornady does not list 4064 for the weight of bullet
 
well you seem to be the only one that is willing to help so thanks for that. is the set up I have right now good to go? please forgive my ignorance!! here the thing I am messing myself up because I am using the lee chart and trying to compare it to the hornady book. the lee chart has 4064 in it but the hornady does not list 4064 for the weight of bullet
I think it is. I remember being a bit nervous about shooting my handloads when they were out of spec compared to my Lee book. I don't have experience with the 308 but have okay understanding and for a stock set up I think you're good to go with what you got. I looked at the ELD-x for my 270win and MIGHT give it a try after long load development with other bullets. The eld does seem to seat different though. My preference for now is to seat bullets like the picture linked in that second post I made on this thread. Also bullet to powder combos are conducted by some companies but not others. It's not an exact recipe, the only important thing IMO is to not exceed the maximum powder charge which even that would be hard to do in most cases. edit: or use red dot in a magnum or something like that. Be hip on burn rates and cartridge parameters. 4064 is well-known in the 308.
 
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( essentially 90%+ of factory ammo is loaded with a "scoop")
I thought they used adjustable metering chamber cavities like powder measures have. All the factory loading machines I've seen are that way. Cavities are set to meter charge weights to specs. A 3/10 to 4/10 grain spread is normal for an ammo lot number.
 
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Sorry for the delay I had a family thing this weekend in Ky. And I do not have a scale right now just bought the lee loader kit and the new products to get the job done. starting from the bottom ya know?
all these guys are trying to help. i started at the bottom to thats why i posted about my powder dipper. a scale is very important though. without it you dont really know where you are at. if you could just weigh your charge youd know if you are within the recommended charge weights in the book. then you would know the loads okay for your heavier bullets. if you seat the bullet deep enough to feed through the magazine and the load is compressed thats ok. when you shoot the first couple youll find out if your running to high pressure then you can back off a little if you are. older redding beam scales are available on ebay pretty cheap. they take time to load with but they are accurate
 
all these guys are trying to help. i started at the bottom to thats why i posted about my powder dipper. a scale is very important though. without it you dont really know where you are at. if you could just weigh your charge youd know if you are within the recommended charge weights in the book. then you would know the loads okay for your heavier bullets. if you seat the bullet deep enough to feed through the magazine and the load is compressed thats ok. when you shoot the first couple youll find out if your running to high pressure then you can back off a little if you are. older redding beam scales are available on ebay pretty cheap. they take time to load with but they are accurate
I would definitely agree with Hoz on this one, you can find inexpensive digital scales or beam style.
Advantage is accurate loads and remember ladder tests are conducted in . 2 grain increments if you have that data help is as close as a post.
Sooner or later you'll need a scale.
Hang in there maybe someone's got a loaner!
J
 
I would definitely agree with Hoz on this one, you can find inexpensive digital scales or beam style.
Advantage is accurate loads and remember ladder tests are conducted in . 2 grain increments if you have that data help is as close as a post.
Sooner or later you'll need a scale.
Hang in there maybe someone's got a loaner!
J
I too love my scales. I forgot to mention earlier and one of the above posts reminded me.... I've shot incremental charges and it's obvious to look at primers. My low charges just have a hole shaped dent in them and as it gets heavier charges the dent starts to form a crater around the firing pin dent in the primer. I'd keep an eye one that. I've yet to have a bolt sticky upon extraction but that's another thing to look for regarding too hot a charge. I can almost tell how hard my charge is from how my gun kicks me.
 
ladder is at 1/100 of case volume, fine tuning is done smaller.
the initial step has to be big enough to see change.
I would definitely agree with Hoz on this one, you can find inexpensive digital scales or beam style.
Advantage is accurate loads and remember ladder tests are conducted in . 2 grain increments if you have that data help is as close as a post.
Sooner or later you'll need a scale.
Hang in there maybe someone's got a loaner!
J
 
ladder is at 1/100 of case volume, fine tuning is done smaller.
the initial step has to be big enough to see change.
Excellent point Sir!
Thanks for weighing in I've never tried the scooper your experience and knowledge here is far beyond mine.
Regards
J
 
I thought they used adjustable metering chamber cavities like powder measures have. All the factory loading machines I've seen are that way. Cavities are set to meter charge weights to specs. A 3/10 to 4/10 grain spread is normal for an ammo lot number.
And this vaunted "adjustable metering chamber" later referred to as a "cavity" differs from a dipper...........HOW??



oooops, edited to add "scoop", sorry there Big Guy, I mis-remembered that it was "scoop" to which you were referring, not "dipper"




Fixed That
 
And this vaunted "adjustable metering chamber" later referred to as a "cavity" differs from a dipper...........HOW??



oooops, edited to add "scoop", sorry there Big Guy, I mis-remembered that it was "scoop" to which you were referring, not "dipper"




Fixed That
i go check out the big "dipper" while lapping on a "scoop" of ice cream that i plopped in the cone:p:D at least its not a scoop of poop:eek:
 
And this vaunted "adjustable metering chamber" later referred to as a "cavity" differs from a dipper...........HOW??
Dippers are slower and less repeatable in charge weights dispensed.

Can you dip a hundred 50 grain charges, one every second, with a maximum 3/10ths grain spread?
 

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