First Time Reloader, 6.5PRC

[MusicMetalHead]

Howdy y'all. Two things for ya. Recently decided to get into shooting more(CZ 600 Alpha 6.5 PRC) as a hobby, but with ammo prices being what they are I figured reloading would be the way to go. This will be my first time attempting this and I've got several books on it that I'm working my way through. I've got a Lee Precision Anniversary Challenger Kit II that I'm planning on using, and I've got a 6.5 PRC resizing die and a crimping die on the way. So first question is am I forgetting anything besides the consumables? I'm a hands on learner so even though I've read through the books the process won't really click in my head until I actually do it a couple times, so I really want to double check so I don't get halfway through and realize I've forgotten some obvious but critical component.

Second question is about load data, which seems to be annoyingly hard to find for this caliber. I don't want to try user submitted loads for my first try at this, as a lot of those get into more advanced territory with pushing how far the load can go and using niche powders and all that other jazz, which is not something I want to try messing around with on my first attempt. Just want a simple accessible load, preferably one where I can use the powder with other calibers when I get enough experience to start expanding to other calibers. Problem is, as I said, data for this caliber seems to be annoying to find, with a lot of the manufacturer data either paywalled(one site I found had everything for free except the powder weights, the most dangerous part to mess up) or missing it entirely. Spent $40 to pickup up Richard Lee's Modern Reloading as an example and 6.5 PRC is entirely missing from the load data. So basically where can I find a simple, inexpensive load sheet for 6.5 PRC that someone new to reloading can cut their teeth on? Thanks in advance and I can't wait to become part of the community.

On a side note, as this is my first attempt, I don't plan on firing my first batch, gonna bring it to a gunsmith and have them check it to make sure it won't blow up in my face or anything.

 

[ELR LVR]

Manual Dial Calipers - Good ones, you will use them constantly and for the rest of your life, so $100 aint nuthin for decent calipers, even used Every other off brand I've had are off by a few thou with stacked errors.
I just checked my B&S to my Dillon calipers with a 1 inch ring gauge
my B&S are freaking on the money and glide like silk on silk
My 2 Mitutoyo's are of by .001" at 1 inch
, the Dillons work, have more resistance in the slide, are not as smooth and are off by .003"
So I highly recommend a Starrett, Mity or B&S
To myself, B&S are like having a Jewell Trigger, Mity are like having a Shilen
Shilen's work and are fine , just not as silky and refined as a B&S
Used ones off Ebay are fine, look for ones in good physical condition where the zero lines up squre at 12 O'clock
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You should not need to crimp your rifle brass
Be sure to adjust it so it only seats bullets without crimping
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Don't know about the aniversary kit nowadays but , a good brass neck chamfering tool will help seating bullets, I still have and use the lee one, but only for the outside chamfer feature, the inside feature is kinda janky on brass
I use the RCBS handheld and also a VLD model



You will likely want to upgrade your Powder scale eventually
I like a RCBS 502 or the Lyman D7 are nice to get used off Ebay
A Bullet Comparator for checking seating depth on the Ogive
I like the Nut type looking ones, as they are accurate and quick and easy to use
No silly attachments needed
Like this




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You can do a lot with the kit you are getting for awhile, I had one I used as a portable unit for out in the field, everything fit into a tackle box. That little press is nice and light
When you decide to get more serious, You may also want to upgrade your powder measure to something Cast Iron with a Micrometer dial

 

[timeout]

Howdy y'all. Two things for ya. Recently decided to get into shooting more(CZ 600 Alpha 6.5 PRC) as a hobby, but with ammo prices being what they are I figured reloading would be the way to go. This will be my first time attempting this and I've got several books on it that I'm working my way through. I've got a Lee Precision Anniversary Challenger Kit II that I'm planning on using, and I've got a 6.5 PRC resizing die and a crimping die on the way. So first question is am I forgetting anything besides the consumables? I'm a hands on learner so even though I've read through the books the process won't really click in my head until I actually do it a couple times, so I really want to double check so I don't get halfway through and realize I've forgotten some obvious but critical component.

Second question is about load data, which seems to be annoyingly hard to find for this caliber. I don't want to try user submitted loads for my first try at this, as a lot of those get into more advanced territory with pushing how far the load can go and using niche powders and all that other jazz, which is not something I want to try messing around with on my first attempt. Just want a simple accessible load, preferably one where I can use the powder with other calibers when I get enough experience to start expanding to other calibers. Problem is, as I said, data for this caliber seems to be annoying to find, with a lot of the manufacturer data either paywalled(one site I found had everything for free except the powder weights, the most dangerous part to mess up) or missing it entirely. Spent $40 to pickup up Richard Lee's Modern Reloading as an example and 6.5 PRC is entirely missing from the load data. So basically where can I find a simple, inexpensive load sheet for 6.5 PRC that someone new to reloading can cut their teeth on? Thanks in advance and I can't wait to become part of the community.

On a side note, as this is my first attempt, I don't plan on firing my first batch, gonna bring it to a gunsmith and have them check it to make sure it won't blow up in my face or anything.

Yes siree, oh so much to learn. It would be fantastic if an experienced hand loader from this forum is in your area and willing to be a hands on mentor. Not knowing the whole story caused me to trade away a perfectly good rifle because of fail to fires. Something as simple as following the die manufacturer's setup to a T was the cause of my problem. It resulted in too much headspace. You will be able to get a ton of help on this forum from very knowledgeable people.

 

[Straightshooter1]

First, let me suggest you first describe your objective, very specifically, as to your intended use for your shooting (e.g. mostly hunting, target shooting, preferred distances to target) as there's a wide range of shooters here who can best help when that's known. Someone who's just a hunter may not have the best advice if you're just a target shooter, for example.

Howdy y'all. Two things for ya. Recently decided to get into shooting more(CZ 600 Alpha 6.5 PRC) as a hobby, but with ammo prices being what they are I figured reloading would be the way to go. This will be my first time attempting this and I've got several books on it that I'm working my way through. I've got a Lee Precision Anniversary Challenger Kit II that I'm planning on using,

I also started reloading with a Challenger Kit. The only thing I still use from it is the powder thrower and the funnel. If your goal is to load really good and consistent ammo, you're very likely going to replace almost all of that kit. Just to give you an idea of where you might be going as I've been there and done that.

That's a nice gun you chose.

and I've got a 6.5 PRC resizing die and a crimping die on the way.

I also shoot a 6.5 PRC and really like the gun. You're not going to want to crimp the cartridges for this gun of yours. Leave the crimping for the semi-auto ammo.

With regard to what crimping does (hold the bullet tight in the neck), you do want to pay attention to how firmly the neck is holding onto the bullet. . . typically referred to as "neck tension". There are several things that can be done to control that, the easiest is with a bushing type sizing die. And just so you might want to start out with .003" "neck tension" (the difference between the outside diameter of the neck before seating a bullet and after seating the bullet).

So first question is am I forgetting anything besides the consumables? I'm a hands on learner so even though I've read through the books the process won't really click in my head until I actually do it a couple times, so I really want to double check so I don't get halfway through and realize I've forgotten some obvious but critical component.

You'll need a good caliper for doing a lot of different measuring. . . like for measuring that "neck tension" and for measuring the COAL (Cartridge Over All Length). You'll want to get familiar with CBTO (Cartridge Base To Ogive) measurements too, which will require a comparator you attach to the caliper (like one from Hornady). You'll should get the Hornady headspace comparator to keep track of the case's head space bumping you'll be doing when sizing your cases. Also, a Wilson case gauge can be very helpful in determining if your getting your cases sized properly.

I'd highly recommend you getting a bullet seating die that you use with an arbor press. This tends to give you better bullet seating results than you'll get with a seating die that goes onto that Lee press you'll be using.

And you'll need a simple loading tray:

Second question is about load data, which seems to be annoyingly hard to find for this caliber. I don't want to try user submitted loads for my first try at this, as a lot of those get into more advanced territory with pushing how far the load can go and using niche powders and all that other jazz, which is not something I want to try messing around with on my first attempt. Just want a simple accessible load, preferably one where I can use the powder with other calibers when I get enough experience to start expanding to other calibers. Problem is, as I said, data for this caliber seems to be annoying to find, with a lot of the manufacturer data either paywalled(one site I found had everything for free except the powder weights, the most dangerous part to mess up) or missing it entirely. Spent $40 to pickup up Richard Lee's Modern Reloading as an example and 6.5 PRC is entirely missing from the load data. So basically where can I find a simple, inexpensive load sheet for 6.5 PRC that someone new to reloading can cut their teeth on? Thanks in advance and I can't wait to become part of the community.

A lot of the good powders for this 6.5 PRC cartridge is hard to find. . . .especially when looking for one that can be use in other calibers. H4831sc is one I use that would be good in others. But, it really depends just in what other calibers you're talking about. If you want a powder that's kind of an easy button for finding a good load, you might try getting hold of some N565.

You should be able to search on line on the bullet or powder manufacture's sites to find their load recommendations. Like here: https://hodgdonreloading.com/rldc/

On a side note, as this is my first attempt, I don't plan on firing my first batch, gonna bring it to a gunsmith and have them check it to make sure it won't blow up in my face or anything.

 

[mic2377]

Don't crimp the bullets. Just use the sizing and seating die you have. The sizing die should establish enough neck tension to hold them.

Use a VLD chamfer tool.

Use good case lube. While messy, sizing wax (IE Imperial or Hornady) generally work very well and you won't have issues with stuck cases.

If you haven't gotten components, stick with something tried and true. In this case a good quality 140 gr bullet, and a powder like H1000 or N565. Both will achieve good velocity/accuracy.

There is plenty of data out there, and on this website, if you look. Don't get carried away chasing velocities posted by others.

 

[ELR LVR]

Yes Case Lube,
I used Imperial for years, great stuff
I have found Mink Oil in the Copenhagen style containers
The Wax consitency for boots, works even better and results in less stuck cases than Imperial
Mink oil can squeeze down to a smaller molecule without loosing its lubristic properties than Imperial wax can.
Coleman fuel is a good solvent to thin the Mink Oil if you need or want to.
It tumbles off the cases the same as any other lube

 

[Straightshooter1]

Yes Case Lube,
I used Imperial for years, great stuff
I have found Mink Oil in the Copenhagen style containers
The Wax consitency for boots, works even better and results in less stuck cases than Imperial
Mink oil can squeeze down to a smaller molecule without loosing its lubristic properties than Imperial wax can.
Coleman fuel is a good solvent to thin the Mink Oil if you need or want to.
It tumbles off the cases the same as any other lube

View attachment 1708957

When I started reloading with that Challenger Kit using its case lube, I did wind up with a stuck case in my die. I was using Forster dies and had to get a case removal kit from them and managed to get the case removed. I kept having an issue with that lube, so I decided to try some Imperial Sizing Die Wax and haven't had an issue with it since. That Mink Oil sounds like a really good lube to use too.

 

[ELR LVR]

When I started reloading with that Challenger Kit using its case lube, I did wind up with a stuck case in my die. I was using Forster dies and had to bet a case removal kit from them and managed to get the case removed. I kept having an issue with that lube, so I decided to try some Imperial Sizing Die Wax and haven't had an issue with it since. That Mink Oil sounds like a really good lube to use too.

Yes Sir,
I swore by Imperial for years, as I had never stuck a case with it yet
Until I started forming Wildcats,
My latest project I got 3 stuck cases in a row with Imperial
I even would try to Size down a little bit, relube, size more down the case, relube
And it still stuck
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When I tried the Mink Oil wax, I did not get a stuck case.
Hence why I have been using it since.
Imperial is great, but for something that may provide a challenge, ?
The Mink Oil performs over it hands down
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The awesome part of Mink Oil is
With Coleman fuel (Naptha) you can thin it down enough to use it in a Squirt bottle
and Put a bunch of 223 cases in a Gallon Ziploc bag
Give about 3 squirts over them and roll them around in the baggie
And 50 cases are lubed and ready to go through the DIllon

 

[Gary in MD]

Send the crimping die back.
You need to find an experienced mentor to get you started.