• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

First time annealing cases. How do they look?

LRGoodger said:
As has been said, you can't always judge by color. With Lapua brass, I get the same color that's on new cases if I let them sit a few weeks after cleaning. If I anneal right after cleaning, there is very little color change at all.

+1

Judging by sight during annealing or after by the patina is going to be inconsistent at best, guesswork at worst. Get yourself some Tempilaq and know.

-nosualc
 
I use 650 and 450.

Put a 650 stripe on the top half of the case, a 450 stripe on the bottom half. Done properly, the top stripe (650) should turn clear a bit below the shoulder. The bottom stripe (450) should not turn clear within 1" of the head.

-nosualc

ps - This is per the Bench Source annealing machine instructions.
 
A question for those who anneal their cases:

Do you use a regulator on the torch?

I'm not referring to a pressure regulator on the tank itself.
 
If you don't have an accurate method of timing the anneal and you don't have the torch in a permanently fixed position. The amount of annealing will vary case to case. Particularly the shoulder annealing which you want consistent for uniform "bumping". When you seated bullets in your annealed cases how consistent was bullet seating force?
 
And without regulating the pressure at the tip, how would you accomplish that ???

Timing only works if you have regulated heat :o
 
How hot are your necks if the strips are below your point of contact with the torch? I guess you are just making sure it is hot enough?



Ray
 
raythemanroe said:
How hot are your necks if the strips are below your point of contact with the torch? I guess you are just making sure it is hot enough?



Ray
How hot, is hot enough, Ray?
How hot were they from the factory? Have we exceeded their safe limits?
 
I know, kinda what I'm getting at.. Even if it takes a nice fancy ride around a annealing machine most folks are just guessing..

Ray
 
JRS,
JRS said:
And without regulating the pressure at the tip, how would you accomplish that ???

Timing only works if you have regulated heat :o
The simple Bernz-o-matic has a valve to regulate pressure. I set my inner cone length to inch and a quarter. Then just set dwell time based on tempilac results. ....... So easy Forrest Gump could do it ::)
 
gotcha said:
JRS,
JRS said:
And without regulating the pressure at the tip, how would you accomplish that ???

Timing only works if you have regulated heat :o
The simple Bernz-o-matic has a valve to regulate pressure. I set my inner cone length to inch and a quarter. Then just set dwell time based on tempilac results. ....... So easy Forrest Gump could do it ::)
Thanks gotcha!

Thats what I was looking for. MOST other propane torches do not have the means to regulate the heat at the tip. They require constant adjusting to hold a fixed temperature. As bottle pressure drops, the heat drops with it. Again…. thanks.
 
JRS, The bernz-o-matic will also lose pressure via cooling as gas level depletes. Keeping the inner cone adjusted to inch and a quarter will maintain constant heat setting. Easy to do when bottle is full, more adjustment necessary as bottle depletes. Some elect to use a 20# tank and might also use two torch heads connected with T-fitting and flexible hose. Waaay over kill for my needs. But, 2 torches might be a better set up for short cases like .223 or 6br to heat neck quickly and prevent heat migration to base. Others could speak from their experiences possibly??
 
If they started to glow they are at 1050F. They are probably ok if they are not to soft. Can you collapse the neck easily with pliers? The shoulder doesn't work harden as much as the necks. Try them as. You definitley annealed enough to reduce neck splitting.
 
gotcha said:
But, 2 torches might be a better set up for short cases like .223 or 6br to heat neck quickly and prevent heat migration to base.

Or use a heavy socket like the impact sockets as a heat sink. I have one that fits the case as if it was built for it and have a clear demarcation "line" where the annealing process ends.

If one thinks their socket is getting too hot during a session, just get a couple spares and change them out frequently. On my setup they merely snap off and on in 2 seconds. Let them cool off on their own or put them in a bowl of ice.
 
amlevin said:
gotcha said:
But, 2 torches might be a better set up for short cases like .223 or 6br to heat neck quickly and prevent heat migration to base.

Or use a heavy socket like the impact sockets as a heat sink. I have one that fits the case as if it was built for it and have a clear demarcation "line" where the annealing process ends.

If one thinks their socket is getting too hot during a session, just get a couple spares and change them out frequently. On my setup they merely snap off and on in 2 seconds. Let them cool off on their own or put them in a bowl of ice.


+1
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,590
Messages
2,221,927
Members
79,755
Latest member
wudusay
Back
Top