Firing pin spring replacement

[Charlie-NY]

Based on the recommendation I received here I decided to replace most of my firing pin springs. I ordered all new Chrome Silica springs from Gre-Tan. The spring for my Rem Model 7 has an unfinished end that looks like coils were cut off. There is a label attached that says, "Put cut end toward dry fire collar." I'm assuming that means closest to the shroud end rather than near the bolt face end; correct?

 

[Dwight]

Based on the recommendation I received here I decided to replace most of my firing pin springs. I ordered all new Chrome Silica springs from Gre-Tan. The spring for my Rem Model 7 has an unfinished end that looks like coils were cut off. There is a label attached that says, "Put cut end toward dry fire collar." I'm assuming that means closest to the shroud end rather than near the bolt face end; correct?

Send Greg a message by email and he will clarify for you. He is a great guy to deal with.

 

[Walt Krafft]

The dry fire collar is what stops the pin going forward. Put the spring with the cut end facing forward against the collar. Not against the shroud.

 

[BoydAllen]

The dry fire collar is what stops the pin going forward. Put the spring with the cut end facing forward against the collar. Not against the shroud.

ditto

 

[Charlie-NY]

The dry fire collar is what stops the pin going forward. Put the spring with the cut end facing forward against the collar. Not against the shroud.

Thanks for the info. Now I've encountered a few other issues. I started to pull the bolts and removed the firing pin assembly from the bolt body. Here is what I encountered:

1. Rem 700 LSS 300 Rum - Using the proper tool from Midway I compressed the spring, drifted out the tiny roll pin, relaxed the spring which popped right off and replaced with the new spring which was about 1/2" longer. E-Z peasey, everything went as planned

2. Rem 700 LSS 338 Rum w/J-lock - followed the same procedure as above but noticed that the factory spring was all contorted and snaked its way from collar to collar. I removed the spring and replaced with the new spring which I expected to remain straight when I relaxed the tension from the tool. Wrong, the new spring also snakes its way back & forth over the pin.

3. Rem 40X SA 6mmBR w/aftermarket bolt (can't remember what company) - The roll pin was extremely difficult to remove but did eventually tap out. When I relaxed the spring, I expected it to just drop off like the two previous springs - No luck, it was held fast. I reassembled for now.

4. Rem 40x SA 6.5x284 w/orig factory bolt - The pin drifted out easily but relaxing the spring did not release the spring. It held fast like the other 40x aftermarket bolt. I reassembled that one too for now.

OK - can anyone help out with bolts #2 - #3 - #4?

 

[Andy Work]

My bolt shroud was stuck when I replaced my FP spring.

 

[Walt Krafft]

#2 get a whole new firing pin assembly to eliminate the j-lock.
#3 & #4 just tap the old springs off.

 

[Just Say Moe]

Can't help with 3 or 4 but chuck the entire J Lock unit in the trash and replace the whole shebang.

 

[BoydAllen]

On the J-lock, I know that this will draw fire, but the smallest group that I have ever seen shot with a factory magnum was shot with a factory J-Lock (and factory plastic stock).

Back in the day, when those first came out, with no evidence the entire shooting world looked at the snaked springs and immediately decided that they were a problem. After that a zillion replacement striker assemblies were sold. If you look at the firing pin, it is smaller in the area between the shroud and the flange where the front of the spring rests. That lack of fit with the ID of the spring is why the springs are "snaked". If you want to to replace what you have, it will require the entire striker assembly, pin, cocking piece, spring, and shroud. How does the gun shoot? If you replace the parts, come back and post of any difference in average accuracy.

 

[Charlie-NY]

And lastly:

5. Rem Model 7 .223 - I attempted to drift the pin out with an appropriate size punch and a rather small/light gunsmithing hammer. It was a no-go after many strikes of the hammer. I reluctantly grabbed a 16oz hammer off the tool bench and gave it a couple of moderate hits. That tiny pin didn't budge! Rather risking any damage, I didn't try using any more force on the assembly. I guess I'll give this bolt to my gunsmith and have him knock the pin out.

I was kind of surprised that I encountered so many difficulties with such a simple task. I guess issues like these are what gave birth to the gunsmithing industry. LOL

Thanks for your help everyone.

 

[AlNyhus]

I press those cocking piece cross pins out. -Al

 

[Charlie-NY]

#2 get a whole new firing pin assembly to eliminate the j-lock.
#3 & #4 just tap the old springs off.

I finally got #3 and #4 free. I had to leave the shroud screwed into the spring removal tool and with a piece of oak against the cocking piece, smack the oak repeatedly with a small hammer. The firing pin "was" firmly attached to the cocking piece. I cleaned it up and put a little CLP in the cocking piece to get the pin back in there with a few taps. Only the two SA bolts had this problem.

I see that Gre-Tan has a number of replacement assemblies for the J-lock system. Not sure if I'll go that route just yet. The 338RUM doesn't get fired all that often but I do hunt with. It proved to be a great cartridge for bull moose.