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Firing Pin Spring Replacement

I am looking to replace the firing pin spring in my Remington 700 F-TR .308 rifle. The stock spring has over 2000 rounds on it. I have read old posts that the more desirable springs are made from Chrome Silicon to reduce spring set.

I was looking at the Tubb Precision CS Duo Firing Pin Spring. Supposedly the two springs are wound in opposite directions, which offset their radial biasing and can help in accuracy.

http://www.davidtubb.com/tubb-remington-parts/duospring-rem700-short

Anyone ever use these?
Any comments on them?
To me, to create the same offset, you just install one in one direction and the other in the opposite. After all, isn't it just which end you are looking at as to if it is CW or CCW?
What other springs would you recommend?
Thanks for you input.
 
I have a Wolff 28lb I purchased. Didn't realize that the standard is a 24lb. Any issues in using the 28lb or should order the 24lb for Wolff?
 
I have a Wolff 28lb I purchased. Didn't realize that the standard is a 24lb. Any issues in using the 28lb or should order the 24lb for Wolff?

I know several excellent F-Class shooters who routinely replace the stock 24# spring in their Panda actions with a 28# spring. When I quizzed the Kelbly folks about it, their recommendation was to stick with the 24# spring.

I think the situation is akin to tire pressures. Even though the recommended pressure is 35#, people will overinflate because they don't stay on top of it and the actual pressure is typically much lower. Good luck.
 
Springs are cheap. I would buy a new stock spring, and the Tubb dual, play with both and draw my own conclusions. I have the Tubb setup on a Viper that has a similar striker assembly to a Remington with the exception of the firing pin tip diameter. The top half of the lift is a little easier, and the cocked weight is what he says it is. I have also tried the Gretan replacement as well as the stock spring. I do not see any difference on the target. In benchrest competition, bolt lift matters. I am not sure that it is for F Class, because you are not able to run a group. Test and believe your targets.
 
While shooting a round robin seating depth ladder test at 1000yds, I swapped firing pin assemblies for the 2nd half of the test. Went from a Tubbs dual spring on a PTG assembly to a 24lb spring on another PTG assembly. All the bullets grouped within there increments, not yielding any difference in accuracy or point of impacts (which I was not expecting to see). Was expecting to see indifference to both accuracy and POI.
The best seating increment printed 4 shots under 3" from 2-shots to each assembly.
 
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I am looking to replace the firing pin spring in my Remington 700 F-TR .308 rifle. The stock spring has over 2000 rounds on it. I have read old posts that the more desirable springs are made from Chrome Silicon to reduce spring set.

I was looking at the Tubb Precision CS Duo Firing Pin Spring. Supposedly the two springs are wound in opposite directions, which offset their radial biasing and can help in accuracy.

http://www.davidtubb.com/tubb-remington-parts/duospring-rem700-short

Anyone ever use these?
Any comments on them?
To me, to create the same offset, you just install one in one direction and the other in the opposite. After all, isn't it just which end you are looking at as to if it is CW or CCW?
What other springs would you recommend?
Thanks for you input.

I wouldn't change to the Tubb Duo Spring, just get a Wolf standard or if you want to try something get a 28lb replacement. (or both)
 
I have the duo springs in an -06 and 6.5 CM and have no complains. I wanted the opposing springs that do away with the spring twist of a continuous spring. My preference.

The gunsmith charged 20 bucks to change out the spring in the 6.5.
 
I don't think the heavy springs are necessary. I also don't think springs need to be replaced because they relax. That said, it won't hurt anything.

As most of you know, I bush a lot of bolts. Of course bushing reduces the force needed to punch a dent in the primer. I think bushing is one of the best things you can do to improve ignition.

I take a lot of bolts apart and find a few issues along the way.

Bolts with way more than 2000 rounds start to show wear between the firing pin and the spring. In this case, both should be replaced. You don't want a rough joint there.

I recommend replacing the fluted pins Remington uses with solid pins.

If you want a slightly stiffer spring, gretan sells one that I use. But recognize that a stiffer spring means more cocking force and a less smooth action. This is a high price to pay just for "good measure". I truly think if everything is working as it is supposed to, the stock spring is more than enough. If you are having problems, it isn't caused by the spring. A stiff spring might fix problems caused by something else, but I'd rather fix the actual problem.

the above statements apply to R700s. Now some custom rifles use a soft spring to enhance their smooth operation. They feel great. These springs often need to be upgraded once you start getting misfires.

--Jerry
 
28 is even better if you can stand the additional lift pressure

There is great potential for issues being over sprung, seen it, owned one.
Can think of zero issue going with 23-24 lbs.
Still shoot a Farley that does best with a 23 lbs cut back 1-1 1/2 coils which is how most of’em go to their customers.

The Tubbs work well but I never saw an advantage. ANY new spring needs to be checked for flat ends....see if it stands straight up, lots of them need to be slightly trimmed up.
 
Have always used David's chrome silicon springs without issue in the Rem's and the Panda's I owned. The nice part is that they NEVER need to be replaced. Measure them, document the length, install them and check the static length at season's end. If I were building a new rifle, it would include one of these "must have" items for peace of mind.
 
Wolff springs in all my savages, i use 36lbs. ,Factory is 28lbs. ,they work great , just ordered 4 new ones $8.29ea can't beat them.
 

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