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Fireforming with pistol powder and without COW

I know some people have been successfully fireforming with pistol powders without cream of wheat. How do you guys do it to generate enough pressure to blow out the shoulders? I started with 8.0gr and went all the way to 12gr of Unique for a 6 Dasher case, capping it only with a wad of tissue paper at the end, and I get the shoulders to blow only about 75-80% of the way.

Do I need to go with a faster powder like Titewad?

Should I place a wad of tissue paper in the case to keep the powder firmly against the inside of the case head?

Or is it that the cream of wheat or cornmeal is a necessary filler?
 
I have no experience doing it with a Dasher, but when making 6PPCs from .220 Russian, I have successfully used Bullseye about half way up the shoulder of the Russian case. Are you using a false shoulder?
 
BoydAllen said:
I have no experience doing it with a Dasher, but when making 6PPCs from .220 Russian, I have successfully used Bullseye about half way up the shoulder of the Russian case. Are you using a false shoulder?

Yes, using a false shoulder. Maybe I just need to use more powder? Maybe go to 13-15 gr of Unique?

If a faster powder like Titewad will help get pressures to blow out the case, then I could order a pound of it.
 
I used Unique, with a false shoulder, stuffed full of paper towels, no mess......... Clean carbon every 25 rounds....
 
i use false shoulder and shoot bullets now in my Dasher. But, I used to use a stiff load of HP-38 and a wad (1 square) of TP stuffed in the neck and hold the muzzle in the air. Worked pretty good, but I got much better brass when shooting bullets. 105 BT with 31 Varget.

Tod
 
I use Bullseye. For the plug I use some of my cast bullet lube. I melt it in a small shallow tin maybe 4" in diameter just the correct height I want for the neck. After it hardens I charge the case, hold it straight up and push the case into the tin giving it a slight twist. That wax plug holds tight to build pressure, I fire them holding the barrel straight up. Adjust the charge accordingly to get good fill out. Does a pretty good job but its still a waste of a primer & powder.
 
bsumoba said:
I know some people have been successfully fireforming with pistol powders without cream of wheat. How do you guys do it to generate enough pressure to blow out the shoulders? I started with 8.0gr and went all the way to 12gr of Unique for a 6 Dasher case, capping it only with a wad of tissue paper at the end, and I get the shoulders to blow only about 75-80% of the way.

Do I need to go with a faster powder like Titewad?

Should I place a wad of tissue paper in the case to keep the powder firmly against the inside of the case head?

Or is it that the cream of wheat or cornmeal is a necessary filler?

Bryan, why don't you use DJ's Brass Service from this forum? By the time you add up the cost of powder, primers (well in your case no bullet cost) and bullets to fireform properly, he can Hydroform them to almost complete for nearly the same price. I have him expand the necks, turn them down to 12K wall thickness, Hydroform, chamfer, anneal and clean and they are back to me in less than 10 days. You can't tell the difference between his Hydroformed brass and a GOOD fireformed case!
 
ShootDots said:
bsumoba said:
I know some people have been successfully fireforming with pistol powders without cream of wheat. How do you guys do it to generate enough pressure to blow out the shoulders? I started with 8.0gr and went all the way to 12gr of Unique for a 6 Dasher case, capping it only with a wad of tissue paper at the end, and I get the shoulders to blow only about 75-80% of the way.

Do I need to go with a faster powder like Titewad?

Should I place a wad of tissue paper in the case to keep the powder firmly against the inside of the case head?

Or is it that the cream of wheat or cornmeal is a necessary filler?

Bryan, why don't you use DJ's Brass Service from this forum? By the time you add up the cost of powder, primers (well in your case no bullet cost) and bullets to fireform properly, he can Hydroform them to almost complete for nearly the same price. I have him expand the necks, turn them down to 12K wall thickness, Hydroform, chamfer, anneal and clean and they are back to me in less than 10 days. You can't tell the difference between his Hydroformed brass and a GOOD fireformed case!

I'll look into this Ben. Thanks.
 
I used 15grs Unique, 1/2 paper towel, stuffed inside. It made a full packed load with a little sticking out the neck, load and let the kids have fun. Made 97% sharp shoulder.
 
I load up fifty with clays and then push a block of canning wax on top of them and shoot thru a fire form barrel. Note I still use a false shoulder and cases already been neck turned
 
You can do it without COW, but at 15 grains of pistol powder it seems pretty wasteful in this time of shortages of pistol powder. With COW you get better fill with less powder and the wonderful aroma of cooked cereal. What's not to enjoy?
 
I do 22-250AI, 257AI, 338-06AI and 375 Weatherby all the same. I choose a top 3 load in a manual that delivers the top velocity, divide the max load by 3 and reduce that number by 5, that's what I start at with Clays, working up until the shoulders and case are fully formed, not sharp, but filling the chamber.
I use TP scrunched up and twisted to fill the space above the powder, I poke it in with a pen/chop stick until it squeaks, no COW, no air space and fire.
Have never had an issue doing this.
22-250 takes 12gr, 257 takes 18gr, 338-06 takes 22gr and the 375 takes 30gr.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.
:)
 

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