Is there any other process to blow out the case than to seat a bullet to jam? Should you use a full load or something a bit less potent? This would be to blow out the shoulder and body taper.
Fire Forming a non Ackley Wildcat
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jepp2
Gold $$ Contributor
You can create a false shoulder on the case neck. Size it up, neck it down part way. More effective then a bullet in the lands. For the Ackley, a max load in the parent case does the job. For yours, can you compare the water capacity of the parent case to the wildcat? Mid load in the wildcat capacity should do the job, but start low and adjust until you get a sharp shoulder.
Without a doubt you need to use a moderate load and you may have to do two fireforms in some cases. You may also need to anneal before you fireform. It all depends on how much brass you're moving. Of course there is the hydroform method which is an excellent way to form. What caliber?
.220 Swift to Weatherby Rocket.
jghoghunter
Gold $$ Contributor
Did this for 500+ rnds of rocket brass. High end swift load jam bullets and go prairie doggin. Works perfectly and your hunting while fire forming.
Jam bullets and use moderate load Swift load. I'd try this with about 10 loads. Like I said before you may have to fireform twice to get sharp edges. Using a high end load can result in bulged case heads. What works in one rifle may not work in another rifle. Save your brass and time.
When forming a case that is longer than the parent case, I prefer the false shoulder method over others. I've not had good luck with just hard jamming the bullet into the lands. It's so dependent on the bullet profile to keep it from pushing deeper and cushioning the blow when the fp hits the primer. I've had lots of failure to fires using that method and the false shoulder method, IME, yields a better and more consistent fireform length than other methods have for me. Lots of people have success with just hard jam but I just haven't had the same results across the board.
The pistol powder and tissue(no bullet) method works but you still have to hold that case tight against to bolt face, one way or another in order to get good, consistent fire formed cases.
The pistol powder and tissue(no bullet) method works but you still have to hold that case tight against to bolt face, one way or another in order to get good, consistent fire formed cases.
I am not totally aware of how to create a false shoulder on new brass. I would think that the brass is already sized. How would you size the neck part way to do this?
sneakboxer
Silver $$ Contributor
I am not totally aware of how to create a false shoulder on new brass. I would think that the brass is already sized. How would you size the neck part way to do this?
Use the next size mandrel up and open the neck up. Then neck size the case back down till you have a good crush (zero headspace) then load. Closing the bolt should have some drag and that will let you know the false shoulder is what is headspacing. When I formed my 6mm dasher brass I went to 257 then back down to 6mm. I also jammed the bullet for forming but it was likely not required. I'm not a wildcat pro but this worked for me.
Hope this helps
Use the next size mandrel up and open the neck up. Then neck size the case back down till you have a good crush (zero headspace) then load. Closing the bolt should have some drag and that will let you know the false shoulder is what is headspacing. When I formed my 6mm dasher brass I went to 257 then back down to 6mm. I also jammed the bullet for forming but it was likely not required. I'm not a wildcat pro but this worked for me.
Hope this helps
^^^ I like it. Thanks. I could use my 6 mm expander and then my neck bushing die to go just enough to hold the bullet.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
No you go just enough to create the false shoulder you need
Wayne
Pyscodog
Gold $$ Contributor
I did this. Every time I fired a case it looked like its snowing. But made nice cases.
Batch of 50/100 cases. Develop normal load. Find pressure in case. Find accuracy. Use that load to both fire form and hunt with remaining 30/80 cases. I shoot a lot of hogs in Texas. Once I get a batch of 20 fire formed cases. I’ll work a load on fully fire formed cases as I continue to hunt.
Not a bench/target shooter. But saves me a lot of components.
Not a bench/target shooter. But saves me a lot of components.
You neck the case up to a caliber or so larger than it will be. IOW, for a 6mm, use a 257 or 264 expander, necking the full length of the neck up to the larger diameter. Then neck down to standard caliber, but only far enough down the neck length that the step, or shoulder left on the neck is what stops the case from moving forward in the chamber. Set it up so that you have a light crush or feel when you close the bolt. Then load and shoot using a moderate charge of a relatively fast for cartridge powder. Out comes a fire formed case when done. Not difficult at all once you get everything set and rolling along.
Shims under the die make it pretty fast and easy. Example...a 6br to 6brx, the difference is nominally .100. So that'll get you in the ballpark but it'll end up closer to being .105ish due to leaving about .004 crush fit in the chamber.
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bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
I don’t use shims but other than that your process is the same as I use for 6brx and they come out great, no f to f like you get with just jamming!…
Wayne
I just find shims fast and easier than adjusting the die for what amounts to a 1 time use while putting the false shoulder on necks of a batch of brass. But of course you are correct, it's certainly just one way to get there.
I finally tried this and had good results, after I understood the process. Necked up the .22 cal casing to 6mm and then ran the casing into a neck die until the bolt handle just went down.
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A neck die does often work well as does a seater die at times...to get it close. Glad you got your head wrapped around. No big deal once you get a few under your belt and see it firsthand is it?
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