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Finding the lands...Tool!

FNSafari said:
Downside is the barrel has to be off the action.
Click to expand...
That is true but not as bad as it sounds because a bbl has to be off before it gets installed the first time. Granted, it would need to come off after that but that initial measure is very useful to establish a base setting. From there, I've simply tuned back up by moving the bullet out .003 at a time, without the tool. I mean, I know how far I moved it before it tuned back in as well as my base setting. So, it still gives valuable info even if it's only used on a fresh bbl. Just my thinking but aside from that, it's also a handy tool when chambering a bbl with the old bbl in-hand for both headspace and cone/breech depths. I use it all the time for that, virtually. One other thing it's good for is setting shoulder bump, if the bbl is off or with a bbl stub or old bbl that has at least the shoulder portion of the chamber. Like that, the stub or old bbl just becomes a comparator body for the tool.
I'll just say..IMO, it is a handy tool to have and stop there. Thanks
 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
That is true but not as bad as it sounds because a bbl has to be off before it gets installed the first time. Granted, it would need to come off after that but that initial measure is very useful to establish a base setting. From there, I've simply tuned back up by moving the bullet out .003 at a time, without the tool. I mean, I know how far I moved it before it tuned back in as well as my base setting. So, it still gives valuable info even if it's only used on a fresh bbl. Just my thinking but aside from that, it's also a handy tool when chambering a bbl with the old bbl in-hand for both headspace and cone/breech depths. I use it all the time for that, virtually. One other thing it's good for is setting shoulder bump, if the bbl is off or with a bbl stub or old bbl that has at least the shoulder portion of the chamber. Like that, the stub or old bbl just becomes a comparator body for the tool.
I'll just say..IMO, it is a handy tool to have and stop there. Thanks
Click to expand...
All correct, but I still prefer alex wheelers method of finding the lands then proceeding from there. You have tuners in stock?? Send me a PM with price and shipping please.
 
I have used several methods over the years--and I have learned and gained more experience I think I am better at finding "it" but I have a question--
Folks seem obsessed with getting it dead on and I have always thought that it is just a reference point right? I mean if I get it wrong them maybe my load likes .040 Out vs >010 out if I had got it dead nuts correct--I just can't see what difference it would make--I am just using it as a point of reference. Then maybe it is In or Out for best results from that point but what difference could it make? Once I "name" a point as it--- I work from there to find best grouping depth and my results have been great
It can be very tedious to nail it --I just repeat until I start getting pretty close to the same number then usually round it off for easy math from there I mean if it is 1.817 I just call it 1.815 or better yet 1.820 and never look back
 
dusterdave173 said:
I have used several methods over the years--and I have learned and gained more experience I think I am better at finding "it" but I have a question--
Folks seem obsessed with getting it dead on and I have always thought that it is just a reference point right? I mean if I get it wrong them maybe my load likes .040 Out vs >010 out if I had got it dead nuts correct--I just can't see what difference it would make--I am just using it as a point of reference. Then maybe it is In or Out for best results from that point but what difference could it make? Once I "name" a point as it--- I work from there to find best grouping depth and my results have been great
It can be very tedious to nail it --I just repeat until I start getting pretty close to the same number then usually round it off for easy math from there I mean if it is 1.817 I just call it 1.815 or better yet 1.820 and never look back
Click to expand...
I don't disagree at all. It seems lots of people prefer to work from some kind of number. In fact, I only used mine for bbl chambering for the longest time...until it dawned on me that it had other uses, with minor mods to the one I made probably 25 years ago, or whatever it was now.
 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
That is true but not as bad as it sounds because a bbl has to be off before it gets installed the first time. Granted, it would need to come off after that but that initial measure is very useful to establish a base setting. From there, I've simply tuned back up by moving the bullet out .003 at a time, without the tool. I mean, I know how far I moved it before it tuned back in as well as my base setting. So, it still gives valuable info even if it's only used on a fresh bbl. Just my thinking but aside from that, it's also a handy tool when chambering a bbl with the old bbl in-hand for both headspace and cone/breech depths. I use it all the time for that, virtually. One other thing it's good for is setting shoulder bump, if the bbl is off or with a bbl stub or old bbl that has at least the shoulder portion of the chamber. Like that, the stub or old bbl just becomes a comparator body for the tool.
I'll just say..IMO, it is a handy tool to have and stop there. Thanks
Click to expand...

I think it is a great idea. How do you measure cone depth with this?
 
urbanrifleman said:
I have seen the ball bearing method. So, I guess You use a ball bearing basically the same size as the ID of the tool so I mostly self centers.
Click to expand...
Nah, the tool for cones is a little different than the one in the video in that, I mill two slots that allow it some adjustability over varying thread od's, like..1.058-1.062. It could be fancier but a hose clamp is very functional for this. The idea being that you just want a very close slip fit over the tenon so that it centers up and stays there. The large flat tip just establishes a datum on the cone that gets transferred to the new cone when ya cut it. It just lets ta copy the old cone depth so if it was wrong before, it'll be wrong again. If it was right before, it should be right again, too.
 
Probably not the best way but this has worked for me, on neck turned barrels, where my hornady comparator and brass won’t fit. I turn necks and then run a mandrel with 1000 neck tension, seat a bullet long (no primer or powder) and when you cam the action closed it seats the bullet on the lands. I haven’t had a bullet get stuck as the neck tension has been enough to pull the round out without it moving.. Later if I want to seat past Jam I just use heavier neck tension or work back from seated jam. I found plenty of good loads right where the cam action seats the bullet. Your mileage may vary, try it, it won’t hurt anything as the bullet hitting the lands and the thrust on the bolt is significantly more when fired…my simple two cents. PS - everyone who seats past jam is likely doing this anyways
 
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