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FCLASSPRODUCTS CT F-Open Tuner - PURCHASE HERE
The CT F Open tuner was designed based on years of research and development, and tens of thousands of rounds sent down range.
Quick key facts:
- Thread needed on muzzle is 1.062-18, pitch diameter of 1.022-1.025.
- Silicone o ring on front of tuner to seal muzzle threads and provide correct friction to prevent accidental unwanted rotation but also not too hard so you can rotate it when you need to without too much effort.
- Manufactured in Phoenix, Arizona USA in our own facility out of billet 303 stainless steel on CNC machines.
- 1.2 oz overall weight, but you remove 1.2 oz on your muzzle end of your 1.250 diameter barrel, so no increased overall weight compared to not having our tuner installed on your rifle.
- Comfort grip knurling machined into the outside of the tuner for ease of gripping and turning.
- Laser engraved, 10 divisions with labels for colder and hotter labeled with arrows so you have a reference on which way to move relative to your development atmosphere conditions relative to your current shooting conditions.
The CT means "Covered Threads". Our original barrel tuners always had an exposed thread, the CT means we made the tuners longer to where the threads are no longer visible and no longer exposed to the elements of dirt and grime. We have spent years coming up with what we believe is the perfect "mass" that the barrel tuner needs to be. Too heavy and any slight adjustment, or even a accidental bump or rotation in your gun case can make the tune go out. Too light and it takes too much movement before you can see a result on the accuracy.
In short, how a tuner works is very simple, it merely is modifying the frequency of your barrel harmonic. Your barrel has a frequency when the cartridge is fired. This frequency causes the barrel to go up and down and even side to side while the bullet is being propelled down the bore of the rifle. The goal with all load development is to have the bullet exit the muzzle at either the very top of the apex of the sinusoidal wave, or at the trough (bottom) of this wave. What this does when you are centered in the apex or trough, is it gives the widest area either forward on the sinusoidal wave, or backwards as the velocity of the cartridge changes.
You develop your load with a few key factors, such as lowest standard deviation of your velocity so the bullets have the most consistent time of flight, therefore hit the same spot vertically on the target. It is entirely possible to have super low standard deviation of your muzzle velocity, but not have a accurate load. Why is this? This is because your bullets are not exiting on the trough or apex of the barrel frequency. You have a few options to fix this, but it all comes down to how long the bullet is in the barrel.
You can seat your bullet deeper in the cartridge case, maybe even stick it out more, or you can change your powder charge, your primer, etc. All of these things will effect your muzzle velocity and therefore possibly cause your tune to have higher standard deviation on your fired bullets.
How we fix this is to modify the frequency of your barrel. There is more science to this such as a sound wave that travels from the back of the bullet to the cartridge case. This happens multiple times, we call these dimensions. Normally there is a 4th dimension sinusoidal wave that bounces back and fourth at the speed of sound. You want the final dimension of the internal sound wave to hit the back of the bullet right as it is existing the muzzle.
So, I am sure I have bored you out of your mind with all this gibberish, but I wanted to give a slight background on the physics involved on what we are trying to accomplish with a tuner.
Now, back to the F Open CT Tuner. It has 10 numbers engraved on it, it also has the words "Colder" with arrows and "Hotter" with arrows. This is labeling which way you should turn your tuner as the ambient temperature differs from where you did your load development.
Lets say you did all of your load development in 60 degree weather. During all of your load development, we suggest to never touch your tuner. Set it roughly flush with your muzzle and with the number 1 on the tuner facing straight up.
Now, your gun was hammering at 60 degrees, but now you go to Phoenix and the temperature is 90 degrees and your velocity has sped up about 15 feet per second. With this is your bullet is now not exiting on the apex or trough of your frequency of your barrel. Your bullet is in your barrel for less time essentially, so your barrel may be on the up travel towards the apex of the sinusoidal wave and your bullet exits too soon. We fix this by "slowing" down the barrel, or decreasing the frequency. That is why it says hotter on the tuner and you rotate the tuner clockwise as viewed from the rear of the rifle. When you do this it spins the tuner away from the shooter, and slows down the barrel frequency so that your bullet can exit on the apex or trough of your sinusoidal wave.
Our CT F Open tuner weighs 1.2 oz and the amount of material you machine off of your barrel to accommodate the tuner is also 1.2 oz. Therefore no increased overall weight happens when you install our tuner. The tuner features a silicone o ring at the FRONT of the tuner and this rides on the threads. This accomplishes a couple things.
First it seals the end of the threads from having cleaning solution from getting passed the o ring and eventually building up on your threads that you cannot see unless you remove the tuner. With every other tuner on the market I have seen a tune go out over time because cleaning solution builds up over time and modifying the barrel frequency. The o ring also provides the correct friction needed to prevent rotation of the tuner when you don't want it to move, but also to allow you to rotate the tuner by hand without too much effort when you need to make a tune adjustment. This can all be done without ever coming out of shooting position, considering your arms are long enough in this position.
Our tuner "repeats" its frequency at 2 revolutions normally, therefore you should never need to rotate it more than 2 times when adjusting.
Other tuners on the market require you to machine your barrel behind your tuner thread to provide the correct amount of friction and is sometimes tricky to get exactly right, depending on the durometer hardness of the o-ring being used. With the o ring on the thread, once your thread OD and pitch diameter are set for your thread, you are done, no guess work on how much to machine for the o ring to ride on.
We have spun our tuners literally hundreds of times and never had a o ring come apart.
Another nice thing is the tuner thread is 1.062-18, the same thread as 90% of the competition actions in F Class. Therefore once you set your machine and thread your breech end of your barrel, when you flip the barrel to machine the muzzle end, you essentially put the same exact thread on the muzzle side. Only difference is the thread length is only about .600" long.
We have machined knurling on the front half of the tuner to provide a comfortable grip for turning the tuner when need be, without the need of any tools and doesn't slip in your hand like other tuners out there with smooth outside surfaces.
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