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Fastest Military Crimp Removal

Dillon swager
Or send it to a brass proscessor. Many of them size tumble clean and swage in there pricess
Jim Owen’s used to do it but I can’t remember who he sold his business to
 
Interesting, as my RCBS kit/die will knock out the small or large primers with ease, in either my Rock Chucker or old Herters and I do not lube any of them.
Not with the RCBS die I got. It requires literally slamming the press down VERY hard to free the case from the ram. The swaging nipple gets stuck in the primer pocket very tightly. SLAM! Every time. I tried several lubes, none made any difference.
 
Interesting, as my RCBS kit/die will knock out the small or large primers with ease, in either my Rock Chucker or old Herters and I do not lube any of them.
The primers isn't the issue. It's the RCBS swaging nipple that sticks in the primer pocket and requires a violent ram stroke to break free.
 
my two cents worth is a cutter in a drill press or lathe and hand feed a case in a gloved hand in a case holder from wilson.
or
super swager..i have done both both are fast
 
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I hate that RCBS swage die, popping them free is terribly jarring. What a POS.

Make use of them. Have someone cut a pocket and make them crimpers. Salvage the brass that have loosened for one last trip or two to the range, instead into recycle bucket.
20221017_100747.jpg20221017_100845.jpg

Test run on LC 67 Match brass after pulling the 173 and dumping the powder (LC Match ammo are not crimped from the factory. System needs an alignment ring to hold it dead center.
 
I can burn thru brass as fast as the Swager with a hand drill laying down and chucked up with the Hornady primer pocket cutting bit for about $20. And I won't ruin any of the brass the Super Swager used to.
^^ I agree. I chuck my drill in something soft, in my bench vise, pointing vertical, on low speed with the trigger locked and can go through a thousand in no time! It only takes half a second with little to no pressure. Super simple, fast and efficient process.
 
I have used a lot of range brass for plinking and converting for projects. Initially, I used/tried several different brands of swage dies in my Rockchucker. Once I bought a Dillon Super Swager there was no longer a need for any of the others. The only improvement for the Dillon is buying an after-market case centering insert that drops in and aligns the primer hole with the swage pin, eliminating the need to initially hand-center the case on the swage pin (bought on EBay).

I thought about one of the motorized case prep stations sold by various companies. It just seemed like too easy of a way to introduce another variable that can go sideways fast. If I can't rely on a major commercial manufacturer to consistently manufacture brass with uniform primer pockets and centered primer holes then what chance do I have of consistently removing a crimped primer pocket and keeping it centered while holding the case, especially after enjoying a bourbon?! Nope... not worth the hassle. Fine bourbon and OCD made the decision for me. I have no doubt that others have greater dexterity &/or less OCD that I do.

Once I moved over to a Progressive Press with a dedicated swaging station the Dillon Super Swager was retired. The convenience and speed on a progressive press with a case feeder and the right set of dies (FW Arms or Mighty Armory) is difficult to beat, but it comes at a significant cost... I will always keep the Dillon Super Swager for the one-offs and small brass runs.

I bought a Lee APP with the multi-tube feed system and it works great as a decapper. At 2x-3x price of a Dillon Super Swager, a properly set-up LEE APP does provides multi-task optionality. My only concern is the ability of its relatively light stamped metal frame to withstand the force/pressure of swaging. Only time will tell as other reloaders do "hands-on" testing. If it does hold up then the Lee APP might be the best option for manual process.

Sorry so long .... I guess I felt chatty.:)
 
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Not with the RCBS die I got. It requires literally slamming the press down VERY hard to free the case from the ram. The swaging nipple gets stuck in the primer pocket very tightly. SLAM! Every time. I tried several lubes, none made any difference.
I dug mine out to see how that would happen. Mine has a collar that goes over the swage that fits in the rams shell holder. The collar strips the case off of the swage. Are you using it? Does your press support it so it works?
 
Yes it works fine. But when the ram is lowered, the cases don't just fall off the swaging nipple. Instead, the ram is stopped by the collar which is stopped by the case being stuck on the nipple. It must be an oversized nipple or incorrectly shaped. To remove the case, I have to back the ram up and then SLAM it down so the collar strips the case off. With enough force that it really rocks my whole table and worries my that the press will be damaged.
 
I own the RCBS system and I'm very unimpressed. I've used the Dillon swager and it works well. Today my first choice is the Lee Ram swage which I also own and think its the best I've used yet!
 
I use these chucked in a cordless drill, takes maybe 5 seconds to pick up a case, ream the pocket and get another. I do them while watching TV

 
That Burstfire video is pretty impressive. I have not read up on the product beyond watching the video but if they stay sharp, they could easily obsolete my swager!

Hoot

Edit: I'm now $21.87 lighter... Damn You Walter Mitty!
 
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Yes it works fine. But when the ram is lowered, the cases don't just fall off the swaging nipple. Instead, the ram is stopped by the collar which is stopped by the case being stuck on the nipple. It must be an oversized nipple or incorrectly shaped. To remove the case, I have to back the ram up and then SLAM it down so the collar strips the case off. With enough force that it really rocks my whole table and worries my that the press will be damaged.
Mine does the exact same thing. THEN getting a primer to seat well, let alone easily is impossible.
I bent the rod that pushes the case down on the mandrel on the first one years ago.
I got PO’d after a lot of time wasted and started cutting the crimp out.
Sold a huge majority of clean 223/5.56, took those funds added that much again and ordered a batch of Starline. My frustration level went away.

I still have several K of processed LC along with virgin LC I prefer. Have used virgin LC side by side with Lapua and see no difference in life or accuracy.
 
My drill press has a 3/4 chuck. Chuck up a case chamfering tool and run slow. If that's not accurate enough, you could build a jig to hold case perpendicular.
 
I have the rcbs one and did about 1k pieces on a weekend. Would never do it again.
I bought a Lee app and a kit off eBay that I was very reluctant on buying at first but so glad I did.
It let me connect my Dillon case feeder to the app press and I swaged a bunch more in 1/4 of the time if not faster.
Without the Lee app my next bet I was going to do was the Dillon manual swager.
 
To remove the case, I have to back the ram up and then SLAM it down so the collar strips the case off. With enough force that it really rocks my whole table and worries my that the press will be damaged.
As manufactured by RCBS you are correct. However, you can make it work very smoothly. You need to reduce the diameter of the stud and polish it. There is no need the diameter needs to be as large as it is. There is a shoulder that removed the crimp by "rolling" it out of the way. But I can see where folks don't want to mess with it when there are better options available.
 
So, just a follow up to the burstfire crimp reamers. Mine arrived today and I finally got some me time down in the man cave to try the SRP tool on some LC 5.56 brass. What I never cared for when I saw cases that were reamed as opposed to swaged, was the bevel that the reamer left down into the primer pocket. When watching the demo, I was left with the impression that the burstfire tool did not do that. I half expected that the cutting depth would be moderated by the cutter's length and thus prevent going in too far where you wind up with that bevel. That is not the case. My results were if you press down firmly, the tool cuts further down than needed to remove just the crimp and winds up leaving that same bevel I was hoping to avoid. Further experimentation revealed that this is not necessarily the only outcome. I found that not pressing down firmly with a sense of when to say when, all but eliminated the bevel. So, its as much art as it is science. You will have to figure out the right amount of pressure yourself. As far as providing a fast cut, its amazing. You do have to hold onto the case firmly to keep it from spinning in your hand. Again, I don't doubt that this too is a function of how firmly you press down on it. The cutter is quite sharp and bites into the crimp quick as a cat can blink its eye. Acquiring the feel for the tool is not difficult but don't just rush right in like gangbusters and you'll do fine. So much for idiot proofing. Still, its an effective tool once you get the feel for it. I was spinning it in a variable speed hand drill and felt that a faster rpm is actually better than slower and like the video implies, it a quick bing-bang and you're done.

Hoot
 

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