Factory crimp on cast bullets?

[cocopuff]

Been reloading for years but not for hand gun..Loading 44 with
cast bullets..Is the lee factory crimp made for cast bullets?
I tried a few and really didn't notice much of a crimp if any..Or is the
roll crimp better for lead bullets??

 

[deepwater]

Roll crimp for lead handgun

 

[mikeinct]

That die is a roll crimp. You need just enough to set those. I'm assuming these cases are all the same length. Cause that matters. Shorter cases = less crimp & vs versa. In a revolver these are not critical, just enough & you will get the best accuracy. Mike in Ct

 

[cocopuff]

it says factory crimp on the box?

 

[lawman29]

Factory crimp = roll crimp. The Lee factory crimp die is the correct one to use. You get more crimp by adjustment - read the directions that come with the die. Initially when seating bullets the top of the case should be at the crimp groove. Then you go to the factory crimp die for crimping...
The other crimp is called a tapered crimp.

 

[Twicepop]

The LEE factory crimp die I had for revolver loads was more of a cross between a taper crimp and a neck down crimp style. For most cast bullets you should probably get a roll crimp die and use it as an additional step after bullet seating. I have RCBS carbide dies for all my handgun loading, with these I got an additional seat/crimp die, removed the seating stem and use them as a dedicated crimp die.The only exception to what I do with revolver ammo is I have a Redding taper crimp die for 38Spl/357Mag that I use on cast bullets with no crimp groove. That works with the Vance 147 grain T/C bullets sized .358" that I use in some .38 Spl loads.

 

[SSL]

Unless you use bullets that are over size ( I have a .44 that requires .4325" bullets to not lead the bore) the Lee crimp die is the way to go. Adjust your die deeper a little at a time until the crimp is to your liking. I've used them for years on all my handgun cast bullet cartridges (except that one pesky .44) ranging from .38/.357, .45 ACP, .44 Magnum and .45 Colt with great success. Added benefit is that the die "irons" the cartridge as it is withdrawn so it easily chambers.

 

[Rsadams]

+1 on Lee factory crimp die... Use it on everything.... Just to easy to setup and use....

 

[243winxb]

A roll crimp is all thats needed.

Lee makes 2 crimp dies for 44 mag. A "Carbide Factory Crimp" and a ""Collet Style crimp"

The carbide factory crimp die may size the loaded round. Not good for a cast bullet. The bullets diameter may be reduced.

https://leeprecision.com/lee-collet-style-crimp-die/

Neck tension keeps the bullet from jumping crimp, more then the crimp.

 

[Twicepop]

Unless you use bullets that are over size ( I have a .44 that requires .4325" bullets to not lead the bore) the Lee crimp die is the way to go. Adjust your die deeper a little at a time until the crimp is to your liking. I've used them for years on all my handgun cast bullet cartridges (except that one pesky .44) ranging from .38/.357, .45 ACP, .44 Magnum and .45 Colt with great success. Added benefit is that the die "irons" the cartridge as it is withdrawn so it easily chambers.

A friend of mine has had two Rugers, one a Redhawk and the other a Super Redhawk that needed at a minimum .433" bullets for the same problem. For the Super Redhawk he has now he went to NOE to get a .434" mold and to I think it was Buffalo Arms to get a .433" sizer die to fix the problems like you described.

 

[SSL]

A friend of mine has had two Rugers, one a Redhawk and the other a Super Redhawk that needed at a minimum .433" bullets for the same problem. For the Super Redhawk he has now he went to NOE to get a .434" mold and to I think it was Buffalo Arms to get a .433" sizer die to fix the problems like you described.

Yes, I got a mold that runs at .4325" with my alloy from NOE. They cast so clean that I don't size them, just roll them in White Label Lube, let dry, load and shoot. And yes, it is a Ruger, but a Super Blackhawk.

 

[K22]

For revolvers, a roll crimp should be used on lead and jacketed bullets that have a crimp groove especially for heavier bullets used in a revolver to prevent the bullets from unfired rounds moving forward in cylinder.

Also, a roll crimp provides for more uniform powder burning thus improved accuracy - many years ago Speer wrote an article on this subject based on tests they conducted.

The roll crimp should not be excessive, just enough to curl the mouth of the case into the crimp groove - the crimp should not deform the case or bulge it. I've seen many many examples of improper roll crimps at the range - mostly over crimped.

For hollow base wadcutters designed to be crimped at the mouth of the bullet, a taper crimp can be used.

I have my dies set up so I can seat and roll crimp in one operation. To do this, turn the die down until the crimper of the die touches the case. Back off the die a slight amount from the crimper. Set the seating stem to seat the bullet at the center of the crimp groove. Back off the seating stem and move the die down until the crimper touches the case then slightly increase the crimp on the bullet then inspect it. Continue until the desire crimp is obtained. Lock the die ring once the desire crimp is obtained. Move the seating stem down to contact the bullet. Some slight adjustment to the seating stem might be needed on the subsequent round to align the bullet in the center of the crimp groove. However once set up you should be good to go as long as you use the same bullet. Also, having the cases trimmed to a uniform length will aid in uniform crimping.

For auto loaders where the case head spaces on the mouth of the case, a taper crimp should be used. Again don't over do it.