Facing a savage action. best method. 9/30/18 updated

[Shawnba67]

So I am setting up to put a shouldered barrel on a cheapo Savage action and I thought I might as well face the front of it. So i turned a mandrel on centers to a snug fit down the bolt raceway and threaded it in. Just like the ones brownells sell.
using thus setup i get an indicator reading of .002 high at top of action action face. recoil lug groove being down and my zero mark the scope holes being at top and .002 high.
Then I thought Savages being different should I face this thing threaded onto a sacrificial threaded stub?
Will my mandrel actually make the misalign to bolt lugs worse?
It is my understanding threads and lugs are machined in one setup at factory face in a seperate set up.
Any advice is appreciated.
UPDATE
So after some good advise I tried the stub mandrel method. a snug threaded mandrel that also butts up against the lugs.
This time it measured just over 0.001 and still had the high spot just in front of scope base screw holes.

 

[RWO]

Go ahead and face it square if it bothers you. Afterwards, a depth mic check of the lug faces should tell you if there is any problem. If you do introduce any slight bolt lug misalignment( doubtful), the flexible bolt head should accommodate it. As long as you are splitting hairs, better check the bolt head to be sure the lug faces are square and exactly the same length to the nearest gnat's ass. Have fun.

RWO

 

[Will Henry]

The Savage receiver should be treated just the same as a Remington 700. WH

 

[Ggmac]

So I am setting up to put a shouldered barrel on a cheapo Savage action and I thought I might as well face the front of it. So i turned a mandrel on centers to a snug fit down the bolt raceway and threaded it in. Just like the ones brownells sell.
using thus setup i get an indicator reading of .002 high at top of action action face. recoil lug groove being down and my zero mark the scope holes being at top and .002 high.
Then I thought Savages being different should I face this thing threaded onto a sacrificial threaded stub?
Will my mandrel actually make the misalign to bolt lugs worse?
It is my understanding threads and lugs are machined in one setup at factory face in a seperate set up.
Any advice is appreciated.

Is it an Axis ?
If so go down to the recoil lug cut out and install a separate lug like the Remington /savage

 

[Shawnba67]

Is it an Axis ?
If so go down to the recoil lug cut out and install a separate lug like the Remington /savage

It is an Axis 2 which has an accutrigger. and it had a regular lug. i was surprised.

 

[Ggmac]

It is an Axis 2 which has an accutrigger. and it had a regular lug. i was surprised.

Interesting . Don't underestimate the axis . I like the improved bolt lift and cocking cam . Mine are much easier than the regular Savage actions .
They aren't highly polished , which is where I found the most runout , but your within the # I've found . It's one of the reasons I went to the Rem 783 . After a half dozen or so I was shocked at the clearance and squareness of the receiver . Plus it's design allows milling the left receiver wall and having a left feed right eject . It can't be successfully done on the axis . No bolt guide , the enclosed left locking lug recess is what prevents the binding ( I guess ) well actually I found out the hard way . Once you mill the left side the bolt head need a chamfer on its left FRONT lug .
Good luck

 

[ricco1949]

Interesting . Don't underestimate the axis . I like the improved bolt lift and cocking cam . Mine are much easier than the regular Savage actions .
They aren't highly polished , which is where I found the most runout , but your within the # I've found . It's one of the reasons I went to the Rem 783 . After a half dozen or so I was shocked at the clearance and squareness of the receiver . Plus it's design allows milling the left receiver wall and having a left feed right eject . It can't be successfully done on the axis . No bolt guide , the enclosed left locking lug recess is what prevents the binding ( I guess ) well actually I found out the hard way . Once you mill the left side the bolt head need a chamfer on its left FRONT lug .
Good luck

Ggmac,

Can you please post a photo of your 783 left port alteration? This is very interesting. I have always wondered if a 700 could be altered to a left port feed with the addition of a full sleeve of the action. Rick

 

[Ggmac]

Ggmac,

Can you please post a photo of your 783 left port alteration? This is very interesting. I have always wondered if a 700 could be altered to a left port feed with the addition of a full sleeve of the action. Rick

I'll send a pm

 

[Will Henry]

I saw a couple of dual port, sleeved, Remington 700's back in the late seventies. Built by someone around Portland, I think. Fellow by the name of Bill Simpson had one and, I think, Lonnie Zimmerman had another. Allen Bench had one which was not only a dual port but had a gravity-feed magazine on the left side. these guys liked to shoot fast and it worked for them.
This, of course, has nothing to do with facing an action. WH

 

[boltfluter]

I'll send a pm

Gary, can I get a pic as well? Thanks.

Paul

 

[Ggmac]

Gary, can I get a pic as well? Thanks.

Paul

Pm sent

 

[Ggmac]

Gary, can I get a pic as well? Thanks.

Paul

Ggmac,

Can you please post a photo of your 783 left port alteration? This is very interesting. I have always wondered if a 700 could be altered to a left port feed with the addition of a full sleeve of the action. Rick

Pics sent to Ricco1949

 

[ricco1949]

Pics sent to Ricco1949

Ggmac,

Thanks for the photos....... very nicely done.

 

[Dud]

Does anyone sell a cheap stub mandrel for facing Axis actions?

I'm planning to grab it in a three jaw to do the interrupted cut and just do a clean up cut with a mandrel.

I usually don't turn hardened steel, what type of tool is recommended for surface finish and what will work for the interrupted cut?

Thanks.

 

[Ggmac]

Does anyone sell a cheap stub mandrel for facing Axis actions?

I'm planning to grab it in a three jaw to do the interrupted cut and just do a clean up cut with a mandrel.

I usually don't turn hardened steel, what type of tool is recommended for surface finish and what will work for the interrupted cut?

Thanks.

Midway use to sell for the savage , small shank which is the same .
I would use a center and lathe dog and live center tail .
Std HSS cutters , light cuts to avoid any problems at the cuts but usual very little hang over ( tool , not operator ) and sharp , I use a rounded 1/2" HSS about the shape of my pinky finger nail .

 

[Ggmac]

Does anyone sell a cheap stub mandrel for facing Axis actions?

I'm planning to grab it in a three jaw to do the interrupted cut and just do a clean up cut with a mandrel.

I usually don't turn hardened steel, what type of tool is recommended for surface finish and what will work for the interrupted cut?

Thanks.

Or cut an old cheap takeoff 223 barrel and make your un . I say 223 just to have as much meat after you relieve the exterior .

 

[Dud]

Is there a reason for the radius of just personal preference?

I usually use a fairly fine point at an angle that draws the tool in to the cut so I don't get as much spring back.

I usually cut at kind of slow feeds and speeds too. I'm not in a hurry and it seems to work out in 4130 and carbon steel.

I'm going to go looking for a stub arbor because I don't have any junk barrels to sacrifice.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Is there a reason for the radius of just personal preference?

I usually use a fairly fine point at an angle that draws the tool in to the cut so I don't get as much spring back.

I usually cut at kind of slow feeds and speeds too. I'm not in a hurry and it seems to work out in 4130 and carbon steel.

I'm going to go looking for a stub arbor because I don't have any junk barrels to sacrifice.

No scrap material?

 

[Ggmac]

Is there a reason for the radius of just personal preference?

I usually use a fairly fine point at an angle that draws the tool in to the cut so I don't get as much spring back.

I usually cut at kind of slow feeds and speeds too. I'm not in a hurry and it seems to work out in 4130 and carbon steel.

I'm going to go looking for a stub arbor because I don't have any junk barrels to sacrifice.

Tool shape was just for strength on early cuts , I finish with which ever tool is sharp and next to me ( first one I grab )

 

[Ggmac]

Is there a reason for the radius of just personal preference?

I usually use a fairly fine point at an angle that draws the tool in to the cut so I don't get as much spring back.

I usually cut at kind of slow feeds and speeds too. I'm not in a hurry and it seems to work out in 4130 and carbon steel.

I'm going to go looking for a stub arbor because I don't have any junk barrels to sacrifice.

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