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F.P. Spring Bind

I have an older Remington Action 308 with the J Lock bolt that was used in FTR back when 1 MOA targets were used. It has not been used in a while so I pulled it out to clean and check everything to see if I could use for 600 matches (24” barrel).

Removed the firing pin assembly and noticed the spring rubs on the inside of the bolt and also snakes on the pin. Searched for information and found some say it does not matter, some say it does.

What are the current thoughts on:

1. replacing the J Lock shroud or does it really matter?
2. replacing the firing pin and spring with one that does not rub or snake?
3. does the current assembly affect accuracy?

Thanks.
 
Why is the j lock design bad?
I don’t know that it is. That’s why I’m asking after searching and finding opinions good and bad. I think my main concern is about the spring snaking and rubbing on the inside of the bolt. It seems most FClass shooters (those I know or have read) say both situations are not good for competion.

I would really appreciate your opinion. Will these cause fliers or reduced accuracy?
 
Replacing the factory JLock lash up on some factory rifles has given me some good accuracy improvements.

To Alex's point on spring bind in general, we're not looking at much travel in a pin assy (it's whatever the total pin fall is) so it may or may not always make a difference from strictly an accuracy stand point.
 
Thanks for all the input. i think I will get another firing pin assembly and do a side by side test to see if it makes a difference on the target.
 
I have seen some Remingtons that the spring was so twisted and bound up you had to force the assembly into the bolt.

As to whether changing out the spring with one that actually fits is an improvement? Well, it sure won’t hurt anything. It’s one of those things you can do that doesn’t cost much and at the very least makes you feel better about things.
 
Slightly different situation, but I had an R700 FP spring replaced by someone else, when they were doing work on the bolt. Suddenly all loads were bad loads, and my ES was out of control (80 plus for any 10 shots, regardless of load). Everything looked fine. Eventually I went to take the spring off of the firing pin, and it took some serious twisting, and pliers, to get it free. The ID of the spring showed wear for a short distance at both ends, and nothing in the middle. The spring ID measured right at or slightly under FP diameter. I replaced the spring with a new Wolff, which slipped on easily. End of problems, ES back to normal.
More than one way for the spring to foul things up.
 
I don’t know that it is. That’s why I’m asking after searching and finding opinions good and bad. I think my main concern is about the spring snaking and rubbing on the inside of the bolt. It seems most FClass shooters (those I know or have read) say both situations are not good for competion.

I would really appreciate your opinion. Will these cause fliers or reduced accuracy?

I dont like the j lock either. But I do think things just get said about this j lock thing without any testing. I have read how bad the j lock is for years. But the flip side is that it gets the spring off the firing pin once its in the bolt. Some thing has to keep the spring straight, its either the firing pin or the bolt id. I wanted to know if one was was better. So I turned the firing pin down on Toms Panda so it wouldnt touch. Now the spring didnt drag on the firing pin. Did it shoot better, no. Did it shoot worse, no. So I think you can guide the spring either way. But using the pin is my pteference. Probably the worst thing about a j lock is the lighter firing pin. Id replace it but the snaking of the spring is probably not the issue. I know ignition is becoming more of a topic lately but the only way to get it right is to go through every action as an individual. You will never be able to buy parts that will fix ignition issues because every bolt, firing pin, and cocking piece is different. Ingition parts always have and always will have to be fitted to each bolt. If you want it done right. So if you do have ignition issues maybe the new parts fix it maybe they dont.
 
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I dont like the j lock either. But I do think things just get repeated about this j lock thing without any testing. I have read how bad the j lock is for years. But the flip side is that it gets the spring off the firing pin once its in the bolt. Some thing has to keep the spring straight, its either the firing pin or the bolt id. I wanted to know if one was was better. So I turned the firing pin down on Toms Panda so it wouldnt touch. I also turned a thin nose on the shroud so the spring fit over it and didnt touch the pin. Now the spring didnt drag on the firing pin. Did it better, no. Did it shoot worse, no. So I think you can guide the spring either way. Probably the worst thing about a j lock is the lighter firing pin. Id replace it but the snaking of the spring is probably not the issue. I know ignition is becoming more of a topic lately but the only way to get it right is to go through every action as an individual. You will never be able to buy parts that will fix ignition issues because every bolt, firing pin, and cocking piece is different. Ingition parts always have and always will have to be fitting to each bolt. If you want it done right. So if you do have ignition issues maybe the new parts fix it maybe they dont.
Alex, thanks for the explanation, some very good information.
 

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