Explain barrel changing please :-)

[Mudder]

Hi there-
I've got a Farley, bat SV, and Kelbly atlas guns. I have extra barrels for each. Can you guys put me on the right track ???

Please pardon my lack of knowledge !
W

 

[LCazador]

Assuming that the barrels for each action have been fitted headspaced properly, all you need is a barrel vise and and action wrench to remove and replace barrels respectively. You don't need a lot of torque about 30-40 ft lbs but if you don't have a torque wrench that is ultimately not that important. I hope that is what you're asking.

 

[ridgeway]

Get yourself a barrel vise, mount it to a rigid bench. Get a rear entry action wrench to fit your actions. Clamp 'er down and break the barrel loose using your action wrench. Remember lefty loosy righty tighty...

 

[jonbearman]

You need a barrel vise and the correct reciever wrench to break them free and retighten them.There are alot of videos on you tube that show you how to do it.Your receiver wrench will or should have offset in the handle if using the hand type or they also make wrenches that use a long 1/2 inch extension and ratchet.On a switch barrel snug is fine,no reason to torque the heck out of them.

 

[Mudder]

Thx fellas

So I need a specific wrench for each action? I see the Davidson wrenches on Sinclair. That's what I need ?

 

[4xforfun]

I am not sure about your actions.....I have 4 different BAT actions (three "M" and one "L") and a Rem 700 action.

My BAT actions all have integral recoil lugs. With those 4 BAT actions, simply chuck the gun in the BBL vice, use the action wrench to loosen the barrel up, take the gun out of the vice and spin off the old and spin on the new....re-chuck into vice and tighten. I can .....and do..... change tubes ALOT on my comp guns. I can make the switch in about two min.

The remington is pretty much the same thing EXCEPT, when you remove the BBL the recoil lug also comes off. You will need to have the recol lug pinned so it always goes on EXACTLY the same way.

I always test to see where the new tube impacts on target vs. the other tubes. WRITE IT DOWN...it NEVER changes. Simply screw on a differant tube and dile in the scope Simple!!!

 

[Syncrowave]

I always test to see where the new tube impacts on target vs. the other tubes. WRITE IT DOWN...it NEVER changes. Simply screw on a differant tube and dile in the scope Simple!!!

Really? That's amazing and I never would have expected it.

 

[BoydAllen]

One thing that you should never forget is to apply something to the barrel threads to keep them from galling in the action when you screw it in and tighten it. A very light coat of Permatex anti-seize is one of the things that will work. I use an old soft toothbrush to work it around the threads into a uniform, very thin coat that just colors the steel. Don't forget the shoulder of the barrel, again, a very light coat. Typically these products have some particles in grease to keep the surfaces apart. As long as you handle this step correctly, you shouldn't have any problems. Unlike some, I tighten my barrels a good bit. The way that I gauge how much to tighten the four barrel vise bolts (Davidson type vise) is to tighten them as much as I can with one hand that is flush with the open end of a combination wrench, I have big hands and fairly strong arms for an old man. So far the system has worked very well.

 

[fdshuster]

I have heard of recoil lug pins shearing, ( the reason some are adding 2 pins instead of 1?) when torqueing the barrels really tight, so that's something to consider.

For that reason when I started doing switch-barrels on my Remington 700's I bought the Kleinendorst clamp-on jig that holds the recoil lug in position while the barrel is being tightened. But, the problem is that to switch-barrels the receiver must be removed from the stock, adding a lot of time, and possibly requiring a few settling-in shots before the rifle will start to group again.

I have recently begun pinning the recoil lugs ( on the Remington's, the Bats & the Panda have non removable recoil lug areas), and always have set my barrels at 65 ft. lbs, using my Snap-on torque wrench, a professional mechanics model that has been tested for accuracy. Have never had a barrel come loose at 65 ft. lbs, or even as little as 50, but I understand some are not comfortable with that light of a setting. At the higher settings ( 100 + ?) I believe there is a chance a single pin could shear, also verified by my gunsmith.

To protect the finish on the barrel when it's in the Davidson barrel vice, I've been using cardboard toilet paper tubes, slit, wrapped tightly around the barrel & held together with masking tape. They are re-usable. Have never put a mark on a blued, bead blasted or polished barrel.

Just a few more things to consider. Suggestions only, that work for me. Everyone has their own favorite methods.

ps: I used to use witness marks ( tiny drop of paint) to verify the barrel was in the previous position or not coming loose, they never did, so stopped doing that. Headspace never changes as verified by FL sizing die adjustments that never need re-adjusted after changing a barrel.

 

[FBecigneul]

Here is what an advertiser here has provided with his ad for barrel vises and action wrenches.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=V_Ou4VPLjJ4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=IYQ-bNDgf2M

I found his ads on about the fourth page of the classifieds for tools, dies, rests and noticed he is about to take some to the heat treat place. You might want to send him an e-mail, tell him what actions you have. All the barrels take the same vise. I don't know about the wrenches. His is the best I've seen.

 

[M-61]

Just a general comment. ++1 on the anti seize. Stainless does like to gall. Galling leads to seizing and since YOU will probably be the one to remove the barrel it's nice to know you won't have a fight on your hands. 45 years of engine building has made it impossible for me not use a torque wrench. ( stretch measurement is more accurate but really not possible with barrels). I have not been able to find a factory reference to the correct torque amount for a barrel so I rely on what I think is OK. (not scientific at all, merely experience). 50 ft lbs is where I am using anti seize. Remember that ANY extension on the overall length (e.g. jam nut wrench for a Savage) changes the actual torque from what is indicated.
Easy to figure using the following:
http://www.belknaptools.com/support-library/extensions-calculator/

 

[Preacher]

Wondering why any one would put anti seize on the barrel shoulder, seems like that would cause a misfit, especially with one that had particles in it..... I apply enough to the threads to coat them with out migrating into anything else..

 

[artbosco]

Hi there- I've got a Farley, bat SV, and Kelbly atlas guns. I have extra barrels for each. Can you guys put me on the right track ??? Please pardon my lack of knowledge. W

Here's what I've always used:

To remove the barrel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=V_Ou4VPLjJ4

To install the barrel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=IYQ-bNDgf2M

I got my vice from Kelbly's. 50 lbs of torque is sufficient or a good old non-herniating grunt when twisted on by hand.

 

[M-61]

I should have said MY application is to the threads....however there is a small sliding action as the shoulder makes contact that could break down the protective oxides. But in further thinking, this is a SMALL area and the real concern is surely the massive thread area which is making a LARGE contact ( hopefully!). Then again those 'particles' would be miniscule and I would not think would not cause a problem. And still again if someone were to apply a HUGE glob......

 

[BoydAllen]

The trick is to get a very thin coating, just enough to color the metal, no more. I work the whole area over with a soft, worn out tooth brush that I keep for that job. After changing a barrel a time or two, the action threads get some coating as well. As far as torque goes, I use a rear entry wrench that Kelbly's sells, that fits their Pandas and my Viper, place my hands even with the ends of the T handle, with the vise clamped at desk height, and lightly seat and release the barrel a few times, and then do the final tightening smoothly and gradually, with as much force as I can apply in a balanced fashion, with both feet flat of the floor, pushing up on one side, and pushing down on the other. The barrels come right off, no problem.

 

[Rustystud]

"Assuming" the barrels are machined to fit and headspace correctly. I recommend high temperature grease instead of anti seize for barrel action applications. Works better, provides the necessary lubricity, and adds anti corrosion properties anti seize does provide.
Nat Lambeth

 

[Uthink Uknow]

Anything more than the thinnest coating possible will manifest itself as squeeze out in the area of the shoulder and will be pushed forward into the chamber area. Also, if you are removing factory barrels, you need a hardened wrench like the one that pbike, shows in his video. I have seen factory barrel removals result in twisted wrenches. As is the case with custom rifles and responsible shooters, grease works just fine.

 

[Mudder]

Thank you so much for all the info guys. Look like I have some studying to do !