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Efficient de-capping/de-priming

Tesoro

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I just began processing a batch of 1000 LC 223 nato last night and it wasnt stimulating again! I have a dillon swager set up with dual ejection spring assists and that baby works like a charm but I am not going to sit at my coax press and de-cap 1000 cases in a row again because there has to be a more pleasant way to do it. I am not too impressed with the run of the mill hand decappers so far...either too big or too many movements..lee frankford etc

However there are some other ones out there all taken off an original patent that I wouldnt mind trying but I doubt they are returnable so wondering if anyone had any experiences with Meachum/Pope style? Distant Thunder? Baco/SLM? Harvey?

Thx
 
I tried a Harvey and I don't like it. By the time you wiggle the case around and "find" the flash hole with the decapping pin, you can deprime 5 cases in a press.
 
I love the Harvey Decapping Tool for the specific reason that I'm not tied to the reloading bench in order to use it. Yes, it sometimes takes a bit of "wiggle" to center the punch, but it's really not that big of a deal. Decapping cases on the press is a PITA. Using the Harvey, I can decap cases while watching TV, which makes a relatively uninteresting process a little more palatable.
 
Is there any chance that you have a Lee Loadmaster? I have seen someone set theirs up to decap only with the use of the case feeder.

Danny
 
I just began processing a batch of 1000 LC 223 nato last night and it wasnt stimulating again!

I have been using a Harvey for a couple of months now. I'm still slower due to the effort to find the flash hole with the decapping pin. But it works Ok.

For decapping military crimped brass with strong crimps, it takes some serious effort. And after I pinched my palm twice (yes 2 blood blisters) you learn how not to hold your hand. I finished the 2,000 FC cases using the Harvey, but it is much faster and cleaner to deprime on my Forester Co-Axial press. Much faster.
 
If I had to do that many, I'd chuck them in a Dillon 650 and just crank through them. For smaller quantities, just a standard decapping die in a rock chucker goes pretty quickly.
 
thx for inputs..my goal is to not have to perch on my workbench decapping and thus hunt for the perfect hand tool.
Yeah the harvey just looks like a non ergonomic copy of the original design.

So far on other forums the distant thunder one gets no negative reviews.

here is another one I found

http://www.neiljones.com/html/decapping_tool.html
 
I have been using a Harvey for a couple of months now. I'm still slower due to the effort to find the flash hole with the decapping pin. But it works Ok.

For decapping military crimped brass with strong crimps, it takes some serious effort. And after I pinched my palm twice (yes 2 blood blisters) you learn how not to hold your hand. I finished the 2,000 FC cases using the Harvey, but it is much faster and cleaner to deprime on my Forester Co-Axial press. Much faster.


interesting..yes the coax is quick. maybe best to decap the nato brass the first time on it and then the next 3-4 times use a hand press once the primer pockets have been uniformed - if not in a rush and sitting around watching tv or whatever.
 
I just began processing a batch of 1000 LC 223 nato last night and it wasnt stimulating again! I have a dillon swager set up with dual ejection spring assists and that baby works like a charm but I am not going to sit at my coax press and de-cap 1000 cases in a row again because there has to be a more pleasant way to do it. I am not too impressed with the run of the mill hand decappers so far...either too big or too many movements..lee frankford etc

However there are some other ones out there all taken off an original patent that I wouldnt mind trying but I doubt they are returnable so wondering if anyone had any experiences with Meachum/Pope style? Distant Thunder? Baco/SLM? Harvey?

Thx
Why don't you resize and decap the brass at the same time? Even if you load progressively you'll need to trim before loading. wouldn't that save a step?
 
I think I've heard that the best (and most expensive way) to do this is with a Dillion 1050 progressive. You can deprime, swag, size, prime, load powder, seat bullet all in one pull for a .223.
 
Why don't you resize and decap the brass at the same time? Even if you load progressively you'll need to trim before loading. wouldn't that save a step?


With military brass I decap first then clean it up, inspect, sort it out and cull some. Yeah it takes an extra step as you noted instead of cleaning - f/l sizing - decapping and then doing the primer pocket work after culling. Its just a process I've always followed more for low volume reloads. The one thing about mil brass is by the time you have swaged and uniformed the primer pocket/flash hole then most of the gunk is cleaned out without need for cleaning. So you have a point. Its no big deal to f/l size 223.
 
I think I've heard that the best (and most expensive way) to do this is with a Dillion 1050 progressive. You can deprime, swag, size, prime, load powder, seat bullet all in one pull for a .223.

Whether I need it or not I like to uniform ALL my cases prior to powder n bullets. Probably overkill and not the best hi production method but I love pretty shiny even brass! I have a 550b that works well for more production 'accurate' loading once you feed it consistent components.
 
Whether I need it or not I like to uniform ALL my cases prior to powder n bullets. Probably overkill and not the best hi production method but I love pretty shiny even brass! I have a 550b that works well for more production 'accurate' loading once you feed it consistent components.
I would certainly agree with that as that is exactly what I do, but you were yelling for efficiency....:D For blasting ammo yes, precision - never...
 
I would certainly agree with that as that is exactly what I do, but you were yelling for efficiency....:D For blasting ammo yes, precision - never...

Ha efficiency in case prep! ..once i have all my cases nice and even then I can trickle charge em or drop charge them for diff uses with good or cheap bullets but all the cases go back into the same box for re-use at the end of the day. I use an e&l brass catcher for the AR so I dont lose brass. ( other than when I occasionally forget to put it back on and that p**es me off!)
 
IMG_0601.JPG IMG_0601.JPG IMG_0600.JPG IMG_0600.JPG IMG_0600.JPG
Top left is a Simmons for 32-40, no longer made. Top right, CPA for 25-20, still being made,

Bottom right is a Meacham for 40-65, no longer made. Bottom left is a N Jones with interchangeable caliber rods. It is quite old and very well used for thousands of cases. It is made of aluminum and as you can see will bend with hard to remove primers. The others are all steel.

You need to fish around for the flash hole with all of them except the Meachem. The rod barely goes into the case mouth and I have never had to fish around for the flash hole with it. The closer the rod is to the diameter of the case mouth the easier it is to hit the flash hole.

Guess I need a little practice in uploading pictures.
 

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I have to mention that "How can I do it faster because I am in a hurry?" type posts are sometimes followed by photos and tales of blood and destruction.
 
The Simmons tool would have been be perfect, if it took standard shell holders.

It would be nice of one of the small shop guys would start offering them with that option.

:)
 
I tried a Harvey and I don't like it. By the time you wiggle the case around and "find" the flash hole with the decapping pin, you can deprime 5 cases in a press.

My experience, too. I deprime on my Forster Co-ax using a Sinclair depriming die. The Harvey sits unused.
 

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