Economy in converting factory Rem 700 barrels to remage

[potatojudge]

Are there any technical problems taking a Rem 700 barrel and extending the threads so a remage nut will fit? Would the barrel face need to be skimmed to ensure headspace could be correctly set?

There are a ton of factory barrels out there, cheap (and I'm sure gunsmiths have a pile of them that were free take-offs), and when talking accuracy I think if you're using factory barrels then shouldered vs remage is a moot point.

From a business perspective, would offering a remage conversion with the option of shortening, crowning, threading, or rechambering/throating make sense?

 

[Fast14riot]

To me, (not a gunsmith) that sounds like 80% of a new barrel job for a factory barrel which will have unknown accuracy potential, regardless of shouldered or not, when you can buy a Criterion or other remage prefit for $300-$400 bucks.

 

[tobnpr]

From a business perspective, would offering a remage conversion with the option of shortening, crowning, threading, or rechambering/throating make sense?

I'd never do it, but I'm one that refuses to install used barrels- period.

From a cost/utility perspective it makes no sense to me- even for new, unfired take-offs.
You're talking about essentially the same labor/setup as with a new blank- on a barrel of unknown quality.

Do you think the customer will fault your workmanship- or the barrel he gave you- if it doesn't shoot cloverleafs?

 

[bapayton]

Funny, was just thinking about this earlier today. I have an extra 308 factory takeoff I was going to turn into a Remage for a buddy. Since I have lathe access there's no real cost to me except 30 minutes or so of time. Without lathe access it's a non-starter for sure.

Think I'll get it threaded and let him see how it shoots.

 

[tobnpr]

Since I have lathe access there's no real cost to me except 30 minutes or so of time.

If you can get that barrel precisely dialed in, threads picked up, contoured down so that the nut fits- in half an hour- you've got legendary skills.

 

[bapayton]

I'll time it and see. Regular pace, no rushing. Kinda curious myself.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

If you can get that barrel precisely dialed in, threads picked up, contoured down so that the nut fits- in half an hour- you've got legendary skills.

Its sure tough to dial in a factory barrel. It has a lot of variables

 

[bapayton]

You're certainly correct there. Seems like most factory chambers are out .005-.010". I'll report back when complete.

 

[Albany Mountain]

HYou're certainly correct there. Seems like most factory chambers are out .005-.010". I'll report back when complete.

Hu

 

[bapayton]

Turned and threaded between centers because all the Remington's I've messed with were threaded based on barrel OD and not the chamber. In my experience turning and threading based off the throat area or chamber area is a really difficult road to hoe on Rem factory barrels.

Anyhow, turning and threading took 31:29. Add another few minutes for polishing the chamber so we'll say 35 minutes from start to finish.

 

[jackieschmidt]

Plus 5 on the true up problem.
on the ones I have tried to true, not much of anything ran true with anything else.
If you do it, just stick the muzzle end in a 3 jaw and use a live center in the chamber end.

 

[bapayton]

That's exactly what I did. Put the muzzle end in the 3 jaw SetTru, adjust chuck to minimize runout on OD just in front of the jaws, put the chamber end in the live center and go to town.

I've tried other ways and it's simply not worth the time!

 

[potatojudge]

I don't think anyone could have expected a better answer. Thanks bapayton!

 

[jelenko]

Just a question.
This approach will not ensure the chamber is concentric with the bore, but it wasn't to begin with and will be as concentric as it came from the factory?

Thanks

 

[bapayton]

Exactly. Unless you somehow get an unusually good factory barrel there's really no way to make them more concentric outside of completely rechambering to a much larger diameter cartridge.

For purposes of simply converting from shoulder to Remage the 3 jaw and live center is by far the fastest and simplest way to go. It's good for a typical hunting/truck gun barrel or for someone who wants a little easier barrel swap.

 

[bapayton]

I don't have the greatest setup (12x36 Enco) but it works fine for what I do. Excuse the messiness, my uncle's shop is definitely in need of a cleaning.

Here's a couple of pictures on how it turned out. There's a slight interrupted cut where the previous recoil lug recess was. Outside of that it's pretty much like any other Remage.

 

[potatojudge]

I don't have the greatest setup (12x36 Enco) but it works fine for what I do. Excuse the messiness, my uncle's shop is definitely in need of a cleaning.

Here's a couple of pictures on how it turned out. There's a slight interrupted cut where the previous recoil lug recess was. Outside of that it's pretty much like any other Remage.

I bid it up a bit. $125 doesn’t leave a lot of meat on the bone unless the barrel was free or dirt cheap.

 

[AckleymanII]

The Last Rem 700 varmint barrel I did was a real head banger. Chamber was so far out in relation to the bore, I had to bore the chamber out to make it a 22/250 AI and had a heck of a time with it. The bore was not in the center of the barrel and the bore had a sweep in it. Bore and the existing factory chamber was so far out of alignment, I had to use the Gordy Gritters method of indicating in the barrel. I call this the flop method because my 14x40 lathe wants to walk out the garage door.

When I finished indicating in the barrel, it was almost touching the side of my outboard spider(sweep on the bore). It took Burris signature, off set rings and Leupold adjustable bases, to be able to get the barrel on paper, the barrel did shoot very tiny groups when I was through.

After a short load work up that produced repeatable tiny groups, I took the barrel off, hung it on the wall as a reminder for me to NEVER do this kind of thing every again! EVER!

If you were willing to go the "What Ever" route, indicate in on the bore at the muzzle end, back of the chamber ONLY, turn shoulder down, chase threads...live with the results...Go for it. It is a lot of work to get a hap-hazard result. A guy does get lucky once in a while.

 

[bapayton]

Yeah, buddy decided his 6.5 Grendel was fine for now. Probably that in combination with the house and 30 acres he just bought. Lol

Was a good experiment nonetheless.

 

[bapayton]

I've noticed the same as you. I pretty much always use Gordy's method, or some variation.

When you turn the shank down it only takes a second to see how non-concentric it is. I've seen the OD to chamber .010" out on Rem factory barrels. I'm sure others have seen worse.

Definitely isn't worth the effort unless you get the barrel cheap. Think I picked that one up for $25, sold the front sight as part of another threading project for $20 so only had $5 in it net and 30 minutes of time. Those economics work for me, plus I learned a little along the way.