hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
It seems to me you know lots of things—for a wood guyI guess that’s why I’m a wood guy. I know nuthing!
Easy way to take off stubborn barrels.
- Thread starter Grimstod
- Start date
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
I mentioned that exact thought to my gunsmith but he just rolled his eyes so I shut up about it.
I'd fire the gunsmith.
I mentioned that exact thought to my gunsmith but he just rolled his eyes so I shut up about it.
His specific job is to do what you want to pay him to do..... I bought a lathe and mill when the guys I'd been using got eye-rolly on me.
I'm not advocating the thick lug, I'm not saying it's a good idea, but I've done it a bunch of times for making fireform barrels and such. Now, since I've learned how to get barrels off without a parting cut it's no longer an issue but there's nothing wrong with the concept.
Reusing factory barrels;
We used to,cough,cough get motorcycle sportbikes tyres from local dealers take off piles. These tyres had the centers gone BUT,the edges were as new.We'd mount'm up,run them at race pressures and get a weekend's worth of hooya's out of them,dragging knees.
So,some folks may not know how to get certain parts to function in the extreme but be careful lumping everybody in the same pile.
We used to,cough,cough get motorcycle sportbikes tyres from local dealers take off piles. These tyres had the centers gone BUT,the edges were as new.We'd mount'm up,run them at race pressures and get a weekend's worth of hooya's out of them,dragging knees.
So,some folks may not know how to get certain parts to function in the extreme but be careful lumping everybody in the same pile.
shortgrass
Silver $$ Contributor
I think I must have logged on to 24hrcampfire by mistake this morning, instead of accurateshooter………..
shortgrass
Silver $$ Contributor
NONO!
NO! It is NOT Al! Only hobbyist plays with factory take-off barrels, new OR used. Most serious, and accuracy minded gunsmiths won't use pre-threaded and chambered either.
I have rebarreled 5 rifles in the last month. Two Rem700s, two Sav 110 types, and one 1949 Win M70.
The winchester took the whole 600 foot pounds after soaking with kroil.
One of the remingtons I had to put a little heat on the take off barrel. The threads were full of glue.
But 15 years ago I pulled 50 surplus barrels all in the same batch of Mausers. I did demonstrations of impossible, added Kroil, waited 5 minutes, and it would come off.
Everyone who saw the show bought Kroil.
I made my own action wrench and made my own barrel vise and collets.
On the rems and savages I am now using the store bought up the bolt bore wrenches with a T handle socket wrench to avoid bending forces.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/816232/ptg-mar-free-action-wrench-remington-700
In the past I made action wrenches for the round receivers that looked like a barrel vise with a long handle. The squeeze from one of these could cause galling.
The winchester took the whole 600 foot pounds after soaking with kroil.
One of the remingtons I had to put a little heat on the take off barrel. The threads were full of glue.
But 15 years ago I pulled 50 surplus barrels all in the same batch of Mausers. I did demonstrations of impossible, added Kroil, waited 5 minutes, and it would come off.
Everyone who saw the show bought Kroil.
I made my own action wrench and made my own barrel vise and collets.
On the rems and savages I am now using the store bought up the bolt bore wrenches with a T handle socket wrench to avoid bending forces.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/816232/ptg-mar-free-action-wrench-remington-700
In the past I made action wrenches for the round receivers that looked like a barrel vise with a long handle. The squeeze from one of these could cause galling.
You're telling me you produced/controlled/applied 600ftlb of torque using that wrench?
I don't find that too hard to believe. I have a 24 inch breaker bar and a similar wrench. I have a 4x4 with a groove that fits the head of the breaker bar and is the same height as the vise. I set it all up so the wrench handle is about 10° up from horizontal and jump in the air bringing my 200 lbs of force plus the extra acceleration of gravity and my arms extending, all to bear on that 24in. breaker bar. I can easily see that equating to 600 lb-ft.
A 185 pound man bouncing on 3 foot moment arm will make 600 foot pounds, which is not near enough. I need Kroil and a 20 pound sledge hammer
It looks to me as if the action wrench is binding the receiver ring. A round Brownell's wrench turned to proper diameter should alleviate that.
IMO
(I have 11 action wrenches)
The breakthrough for action wrench design for flat bottom receivers came to me when I realized the Mcfarland gunsmithing book picture could be improved.
For years I copied his design, made action wrenches and barrel vises and handed them out to freinds.
Then I realized it was scuffing the finish on the top of Win 70s, Mosin Nagants, and Mausers.
I needed to apply the 45 degree force multiplier in the same plane as I applied force on the flat bottom.
I inletted the action wrenches from then forward to allow the recoil lug to be inside the action wrench.
Voila, no more scuffing caused by pushing up way back there and pushing down way forward.
Other than this, the MacFarland book is excellent.
From my engineering perspective, I like McFarland, Ackley, and De Haas.
The round action wrenches I have made for Remington 700 and Sav 110 actions do not work as well as bolt lug raceway wrenches applied with balanced torque from a T handle.
The biggest problem with round action wrenches is with Rem 700 actions and barrels are at the threshold of galling, a thin pinchable action, and Remington leaves glue on the threads.
For years I copied his design, made action wrenches and barrel vises and handed them out to freinds.
Then I realized it was scuffing the finish on the top of Win 70s, Mosin Nagants, and Mausers.
I needed to apply the 45 degree force multiplier in the same plane as I applied force on the flat bottom.
I inletted the action wrenches from then forward to allow the recoil lug to be inside the action wrench.
Voila, no more scuffing caused by pushing up way back there and pushing down way forward.
Other than this, the MacFarland book is excellent.
From my engineering perspective, I like McFarland, Ackley, and De Haas.
The round action wrenches I have made for Remington 700 and Sav 110 actions do not work as well as bolt lug raceway wrenches applied with balanced torque from a T handle.
The biggest problem with round action wrenches is with Rem 700 actions and barrels are at the threshold of galling, a thin pinchable action, and Remington leaves glue on the threads.
Attachments
Grimstod
Machinist, Designer, and Shooter.
Good practice or as sacrificial lambs for experiments. That is it. Would never use one for anything serious either.
Grimstod
Machinist, Designer, and Shooter.
That video scares me. Cracked receiver here we come.
OK...... I'ma' state my case once
It is my considered opinion that NOTHING even comes close to a properly fitted Brownell's/Wheeler style wrench.
PROOF??
Here's how I check it. TWO distinct ways, TWO different factors at play here.
#1
Fit a tight threaded plug to the action, or just use a barrel. DO NOT SCREW IT IN.
Now, install the action wrench of choice on the nekkid bare action, NO BARREL, just screw it onto the action ring and tighten 'er down like ya' would.
Check fittage. Did the fragile receiver ring distort?
And now #2
This one takes a little imagination.
Set down and stare at the wrench fitted to the receiver ring and imagine applying force to "unscrew"......... are their any flex points? Any point loads? Any places where the action will be forced AGAINST the threads VS keeping a nice round ring under a load?
For instance, it's common knowledge amongst mechanics that taking off a nut using an open-end wrench distorts and "jams" the nut into the threads whereas a box-end or a socket distributes the loading better...does not distort the nut.
I even mill full-wrap wrenches for my flat-sided actions.....
I had two teachers in gunsmithing school...... one was an elderly German fellow named Achleithner who'd completed all stages of Ferlach's training courses back in Der Fa'derland and the other was an American redneck who'd graduated a two-yr course with a 'C' average.
Guess which one used a hammer?
It is my considered opinion that NOTHING even comes close to a properly fitted Brownell's/Wheeler style wrench.
PROOF??
Here's how I check it. TWO distinct ways, TWO different factors at play here.
#1
Fit a tight threaded plug to the action, or just use a barrel. DO NOT SCREW IT IN.
Now, install the action wrench of choice on the nekkid bare action, NO BARREL, just screw it onto the action ring and tighten 'er down like ya' would.
Check fittage. Did the fragile receiver ring distort?
And now #2
This one takes a little imagination.
Set down and stare at the wrench fitted to the receiver ring and imagine applying force to "unscrew"......... are their any flex points? Any point loads? Any places where the action will be forced AGAINST the threads VS keeping a nice round ring under a load?
For instance, it's common knowledge amongst mechanics that taking off a nut using an open-end wrench distorts and "jams" the nut into the threads whereas a box-end or a socket distributes the loading better...does not distort the nut.
I even mill full-wrap wrenches for my flat-sided actions.....
I had two teachers in gunsmithing school...... one was an elderly German fellow named Achleithner who'd completed all stages of Ferlach's training courses back in Der Fa'derland and the other was an American redneck who'd graduated a two-yr course with a 'C' average.
Guess which one used a hammer?
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