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easiest way to remove a muzzle brake

What is the best and easiest way to remove/ reinstall a muzzle brake? The smith that installed it told me he didn't use any locking agent so it could be removed easily. I want to remove it to clean it in my sonic cleaner and reinstall it. I also plan on making a cap to shoot without the brake. The local club has no rules against it but several people have made comments , not really complaining but complaining about it.

Thanks , Traven
 
It has angled an off set holes. I tried with a piece of hardend rod in one of the holes close to the threaded end only applying minimal torque 20-25ftlbs or so. I'm sure its supposed to be a lot tighter but I wasn't wanting to mar or distort anything. I have a couple ideas of fabricating a wrench type tool out of either aluminum or nylon but before I door I was wondering how everyone else does it. I would call the gunsmith who installed it but he's closed for the holidays. I want a way to remove and reinstall myself home or wherever I may be.
 
The easiest way I have found is to get a set of "M1A castle nut pliers". They run about $10 to $20 per pair. They are cheap looking but have opposed jaws that fit into any size or angled holes on muzzle brakes without damaging it.

If your brake is stuck because of carbon in the threads then these may not be strong enough to break it loose. If that is the case then use a barrel vise clamped on the brake to remove it. pdog2225
 
Heat it before you try any type of wrench or metal rod. They always come off a lot easier when they are hot. I normally clamp the barrel in a barrel vise and then use a rod, ratchet extention, screw drive, adjustable wrench or whatever best fits the type of brake I'm removing.
 
take your mouse pad and use it to increase friction between the break and your hand and turn it off. Also works great on stubborn jars.
 
Minesweeper3433 said:
take your mouse pad and use it to increase friction between the break and your hand and turn it off. Also works great on stubborn jars.

LMAO!!!! that's awesome!



A wise (shall I say "old" :) ) shooter at Williamsport taught me that when you install the muzzle brake, put some bolt/lug grease on the threads. That's right, the same grease you use on your bolt lugs, put a little on the threads of your muzzle brake. Makes it A LOT easier to remove the brake later. I'm sure any grease would work, but the lug grease is already in range box/bag, so you don't need to buy/carry more stuff around if you simply use what you already have.
 
Remove and clean the brake each time you clean your rifle. Lube the threads and reinstall. A steel dowel rod that will fit in a hole in the brake is all the tool you need. Never let the brake loosen during shooting, it will cause you to throw shots all over the place. Larry in western Ky.
 
If the ports in the brake are beveled or have sharp edges that you are worried about marring, get a section of old aluminum cleaning rod and use that as leverage - at least the aluminum is softer than the steel brake and should not damage it.
 
Best way is a barrel vice and a pair of vice grips with aluminium or copper jaws.
If this a basement project first try a pair of channel locks and an old leather belt, if it stuck pretty good, an old leather belt or stap, a pair of vice grips (NOT TOO TIGHT) and tap the end of the vice grips with a mallet.
When you put it back on, CLEAN barrel threads and the threads INSIDE of brake and then use a good Anti-seize lubricant.

Dave
 
Remove and clean the brake each time you clean your rifle. Lube the threads and reinstall. A steel dowel rod that will fit in a hole in the brake is all the tool you need. Never let the brake loosen during shooting, it will cause you to throw shots all over the place. Larry in western Ky.
I clean my bbl with the break off. when finished with the bbl I put just a small amount of Wilson Gun Grease on the threads and hand tighten, then take a allen wrench and put a small amount of tork on the break. A small amount of grease and a small amount of tork.
 

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