From reading through some of their info, it appears that the brass they use is Alpha with their headstamp. Alpha is good brass. I saw ammo for 6 Dasher and GT but nothing for 6BR or BRA.Has anyone tried Eagle Eye ammo? If yes, how does it stack up to Lapua - especially for reloading.
thanks
Keep your eye open in our classifieds. Many times sellers are moving on to something else and quality rifles can be purchased with brass, bullets, & barrels ready to go. If you get lucky enough and they are close enough to you, you may get a good supply of powder and primers as well.......Best Of Luck.thanks everyone, lots of good advice. Can't believe the wait time for components - including rifle build times.
This is my 2nd year shooting 100/200 yard matches with a 6mm PPC; Group Bench Rest. Currently I live in NJ but moving to NC in about 2 years where the 6mm Dasher will be for 300/600 yard BR. No hurry on the build and i can do lots of research first.If you are just starting I would suggest a straight 6br first, or a 6br Ackley.
This is my 2nd year shooting 100/200 yard matches with a 6mm PPC; Group Bench Rest. Currently I live in NJ but moving to NC in about 2 years where the 6mm Dasher will be for 300/600 yard BR. No hurry on the build and i can do lots of research first.
thanks
Just started my research, if anyone has ideas on costs or can recommend a smith I'll all ears.Just curious. How much does a "build" cost these days? For a 300/600 br rig? Minus scope.
Brad, what top do you have on that SEB Mini?Then build your own. I could set you up with the parts and you could be up and running in a very short time. Weeks.
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Brad, what top do you have on that SEB Mini?
Costs are relative to components and cosmetic desires. A laminate with a rattle can sealer will get the job done but won't be any where near as shiny as a full on automotive clear coat from a reputable painter. It will also cost $1000 (or more) less than a higher end stock/finish work.Just started my research, if anyone has ideas on costs or can recommend a smith I'll all ears.
Just started my research, if anyone has ideas on costs or can recommend a smith I'll all ears.

Costs are relative to components and cosmetic desires. A laminate with a rattle can sealer will get the job done but won't be any where near as shiny as a full on automotive clear coat from a reputable painter. It will also cost $1000 (or more) less than a higher end stock/finish work.
From what I see at my shop is buyers come in two classes the sub $3500 build with quality components or the sub $8,000 build with quality components. I won't list "factory classes at a $1500 price point for what you seemingly want to do.
Try and figure out what you want to do with your rifle, how competitive you want to be (national competitor, vs weekend warrior) and let that guide you. Like most things performance, it takes very little money to get to 150 mph or say 1/2 MOA rifle, but to get to 250 MPH or 1/4 moa or better consistently, takes A LOT MORE. More on the rifle and more importantly, more on you in your training, reloading bench work, and wind reading. Don't expect to roll up on BR nationals in a untuned rifle at any price point and beat someone like Wayne Campbell or any other multiple time national champion or HOF shooter.
Here is a bullet list for BR parts
Note: 600/1000 br is similar just with a different stock.
- BAT DS or Borden B
- $1650 with rail (+$300 if you want poilished)
- Scarborough or Mataya Carbon Stock
- $2000 (or more)
- Inlet, Bedding, Chamber, Tuner with install work
- $1750
- Clear coat of the stock if the factory clear is damaged during inlet or other shop rash
- $600 (or more if you have to ship it or want a higher quality paint job)
- Barrel
- $450
- Trigger
- $460
- Total
- $6910
Now those prices are just estimates and are not intended to be a implied to any smith or builder. Just a quick perusal around the internet. However, it will get you in the ball park.
Just started my research, if anyone has ideas on costs or can recommend a smith I'll all ears.
