Dry powdered graphite lube
- Thread starter josebd
- Start date
Yes, but the finer the better, I use industrial grade, it is very fine and only a tiny amount is necessary.
I used to use the type made for locks, but it is too coarse.
Sinclair make an applicator with ceramic balls that works, but I don’t like graphite on the outside of the case, just the inside.
Cheers.
I used to use the type made for locks, but it is too coarse.
Sinclair make an applicator with ceramic balls that works, but I don’t like graphite on the outside of the case, just the inside.
Cheers.
It's dirty but when I need case lube I use nothing else.
Get an old 35mm film canister and mostly fill it with fine lead shot. Dose it heavily with graphite and recap and shake to mix.
Plunge cases in mouth first and size.
In a FL die it takes a couple of cases to entirely cover the inside of the die and then the effort required drops dramatically. For the first couple you could add a bit more up the walls of the case to speed up the die lubing process.
I don't FL size hardly at all instead LCD NS'ing for everything.
Recently I had to lube some LC 308 brass to NS it down to 7.08 in a LCD and it worked fine but needs FF'ing to get it perfect.
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
Only problem using Imperial is you have to make sure you get it ALL OFF before you start charging the case with powder. Q Tip in the neck with Brake Parts Cleaner gets it all off. No powder sticking issues.
Graphite powder reminds me of Anti Seize. That stuff gets on EVERYTHING.
Graphite powder reminds me of Anti Seize. That stuff gets on EVERYTHING.
Here is another option. My clean brass is primed, spray lubed, resized and the are necks expanded before they are dipped in graphite powde just prior to powder & bullet seating. If you wear disposable rubber gloves thru the process, the powder and spray lube on the outside of the case sticks to the gloves and leaves the brass and your hands perfectly clean.
Ben
ClassCat
Unlimited
I just don't get it. I understand you want an even bullet release, but by placing another variable into the equation how can you prove consistency ? What happens if there is more lube on one side than another ? Why not just use Moly Bullets or Bullets coated with HBN ? I had surgery a number of years ago, it didn't stop me from shooting, but cleaning was a real uncomfortable chore. One of the guys i shoot with said shoot moly and you won't have to clean very often so he coated some bullets for me. They shot well, but no better than copper bullets and saw no difference on release.
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When that bullet is hit with 50,000 pounds of pressure on it's butt does anyone really think the lube will really affect anything ? LItz's test of neck tension correlated with SD and max velocity showed more is better as long as you are not damaging the bullet jacket with seating resistance.
I personally tried wet lube and graphite last year when I was trying to get my SD's down and my tests showed me that at best neck lube when seating the bullet did nothing for velocity or velocity consistency. At worst the SD's increased. My dry lube kit has not been used in months now, I came to the conclusion it was a lot of time and mess for nothing
I personally tried wet lube and graphite last year when I was trying to get my SD's down and my tests showed me that at best neck lube when seating the bullet did nothing for velocity or velocity consistency. At worst the SD's increased. My dry lube kit has not been used in months now, I came to the conclusion it was a lot of time and mess for nothing
LA50SHOOTER
Sworn To Protect The Constitution.
I’ve been loading some ammunition over the last couple days for a switch-barrel rifle that I have and some of the items mentioned I thought about during the course of reloading 300 rounds for a 30-06 Ackley Imp.
I don’t want to get into a big discussion about neck tension here, Lord only knows that has been beat to death on another recent thread.
I had to decide if and with what was I going to lube the insides of the case necks with. - I decided I would use lube as the ammo may sit for 6 months or possibly longer before I get an opportunity to swap the barrel onto the action, as I still have some work to do with the presently mounted barrel.
- I have 2 different dry type lubes that I’ve used in the past, and like other shooters and reloaders I’m asking a lot of the same questions in my mind, for example distribution of the lube and the possible effects that it may have in regards to end result performance because I’m seeking accuracy as many other like minded shooters are.
I’ve been lubing the bullets as they are seated using a Wilson Straight Line bullet seater die that is cut with the same reamer as my barrels are chambered with. - Also, I’ve taken the opportunity to pull a seated bullet from one of my loaded rounds to see what’s going on, on the inside of the case neck after a bullet is seated. - I’ve found that there is lube on the inside and it appears to be quite evenly distributed as I’m using a pretty generous amount. I’m applying the lube by dipping the bullet base down into the lube and rolling it between my fingers to get a decent coating on the lower part of the bullet. I’ve used both the Redding dry lube and the Moly lube from NECO with good results.
When I’m seating bullets I’m using a Force measurement K & M arbor press and I’m monitoring the pressure (and actually recording it on a tally sheet) for each round. I believe that using a lube reduces the overall deviation of force during the bullet seating operation. I have not done a test to verify the force required or deviation of pulling the bullet, but logic indicates to me that overall deviation will be less on pulling it as well.
Lubing in my mind serves two benefits, it prevents cold welding of bullets to brass for longer term stored ammo, and I believe that it also provides lower deviation of neck tension for not only seating but the pull force when the bullet is released. I’m using Lapua or Norma brass, and some Peterson now that they’ve brought some of the calibers I shoot to market and I’m neck turning as I’m seeking not only consistency but precision tolerance when I’m building ammunition. - Yes, lubing is messy, it adds steps to the reloading operation and more time is consumed during the reloading process. But I feel that it helps reduce variables in neck tension which hopefully equates to more accurate ammo being loaded to shoot.
- I’m by know means saying my way is better than yours, I only offer what I’ve done as food for thought.
Regards, - Ron -
I don’t want to get into a big discussion about neck tension here, Lord only knows that has been beat to death on another recent thread.
I had to decide if and with what was I going to lube the insides of the case necks with. - I decided I would use lube as the ammo may sit for 6 months or possibly longer before I get an opportunity to swap the barrel onto the action, as I still have some work to do with the presently mounted barrel.
- I have 2 different dry type lubes that I’ve used in the past, and like other shooters and reloaders I’m asking a lot of the same questions in my mind, for example distribution of the lube and the possible effects that it may have in regards to end result performance because I’m seeking accuracy as many other like minded shooters are.
I’ve been lubing the bullets as they are seated using a Wilson Straight Line bullet seater die that is cut with the same reamer as my barrels are chambered with. - Also, I’ve taken the opportunity to pull a seated bullet from one of my loaded rounds to see what’s going on, on the inside of the case neck after a bullet is seated. - I’ve found that there is lube on the inside and it appears to be quite evenly distributed as I’m using a pretty generous amount. I’m applying the lube by dipping the bullet base down into the lube and rolling it between my fingers to get a decent coating on the lower part of the bullet. I’ve used both the Redding dry lube and the Moly lube from NECO with good results.
When I’m seating bullets I’m using a Force measurement K & M arbor press and I’m monitoring the pressure (and actually recording it on a tally sheet) for each round. I believe that using a lube reduces the overall deviation of force during the bullet seating operation. I have not done a test to verify the force required or deviation of pulling the bullet, but logic indicates to me that overall deviation will be less on pulling it as well.
Lubing in my mind serves two benefits, it prevents cold welding of bullets to brass for longer term stored ammo, and I believe that it also provides lower deviation of neck tension for not only seating but the pull force when the bullet is released. I’m using Lapua or Norma brass, and some Peterson now that they’ve brought some of the calibers I shoot to market and I’m neck turning as I’m seeking not only consistency but precision tolerance when I’m building ammunition. - Yes, lubing is messy, it adds steps to the reloading operation and more time is consumed during the reloading process. But I feel that it helps reduce variables in neck tension which hopefully equates to more accurate ammo being loaded to shoot.
- I’m by know means saying my way is better than yours, I only offer what I’ve done as food for thought.
Regards, - Ron -
Have you ever noticed a bad reaction (Blue acid y looking stuff) coming from the bullet neck junction after being stored for some time? I've had it happen to me with loaded moly coated rounds stored in a nice dry and not too warm place. I know that your not storing moly coated bullets but yours have it on the base sides of the bullet being seated into the case, correct? Just curious if you or anyone has had this happen before? I no longer leave moly coated rounds very long before firing. Thanks, Larry
The graphite helps eliminate SOME of the AIR that causes oxidation, which is the green/blue stuff that appears on copper alloys when they corrode.
Bullet weld is a real thing, even with a minimum amount of resistance fit, henece tension, a bullet can be ‘cold welded’ to the neck. The graphite powder helps with this.
Even the acids from your own fingers can cause bullet weld.
Bullet weld is a real thing, even with a minimum amount of resistance fit, henece tension, a bullet can be ‘cold welded’ to the neck. The graphite powder helps with this.
Even the acids from your own fingers can cause bullet weld.
PatMiles
Silver $$ Contributor
Sorry I don't do moly coated stuff , but I have ammo THAT'S OLD , just shot some 70 year old pistol ammo the other day with zero problems... Haven't noticed that but you will get a greenish corrosion after awhile...
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