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drilling rifle bullets to improve terminal ballistics

A target bullet does not have a thicker jacket than a hunting bullet.

A hunting bullet is designed to hold together under impact, a target bullet is designed to fragment on impact.
Well in some cases such as in Bergers line of bullets this would be incorrect and the exact opposite of what is stated. Berger target bullets are a thicker jacket than their hunting bullets. Long known history for the reason behind that.
 
I drill Hornady 30 mauser 88 gr pistol bullets in a lathe collet and sometimes slit them with a sliting saw in the mill ...shoot them subsonic in 300 blkout ...thin jackets, soft lead, drilled, & slit equals big bullet mushrooms at 1000 fps where none existed before...even thin jacketed virmint bullets that just had rifling on them no mushrooms at all, at 1000 fps..you could load and shoot them again.
 
In the Minnesota study mentioned one the highest bullets to fragment...was the Nosler BT with 141 average fragments in the wound .
I shot them into the dirt at 950 yds while target shooting...the 30 caliber green plastic tips were fully intact, zero fragments, the rifling was the only difference between the unfired ones in the box and the fired ones in the dirt... I've seen this countless times. And why I don't shoot big game at long range...even at 500 yds ..look in the dirt for fully intact bullets...you will find them...even light jacketed varmint bullets fully intact at 500yds 50 gr HP muzzle velocity 3750 fps...just the rifling...fully intact...but very explosive inside 200 yds.
 
Tricks like these are as old as the hills but nothing has changed if you want/need good terminal performance on game of whatever size at whatever range.
With a dedicated hunting bullet specified for the game class, lets say our NZ red deer the rule of thumb for reliable kills for well placed shots is 2000fps and 1000ftlbs energy at impact regardless of distance.
If we are to properly respect our game and we should in order to dispatch them humanely so not to discredit our sport we should be very focussed on the terminal performance one can only achieve with a dedicated hunting bullet and not some conjured up attempt at one.

Here below is one of the world best terminal performance sites focussed on that and not ballistic performance, the subject of this thread:

Here, in the Knowledgebase section much guidance is offered for all popular calibers which projectiles will reliably perform which if we are to properly respect our game it would be wise to study.

I purchased one of Nathan's books on the topic a few years ago, it's a most comprehensive resource based on thousands of kills. For less than the cost of a box of ammo, you can save yourself a major disappointment.
 
Couldn't read the file(me being computer challenged)..... so if this was discussed or explained,excuse/ignore this response.

Would be curious about the accuracy of the drilling? To the point(ha) of,not so much any fixturing but spin testing that "should" follow. So are you testing for any balance issues after drilling?

Just saying that bullet making is a swaging process.... to introduce ANYTHING that disrupts this makes me nervous(from a bughole standpoint,not personal safety in the shop environment).
As I indicated in my post above, I tested for accuracy after drilling and (meplat) trimming. My 280 AI shot with the same level of accuracy (three-shot group into 3/8", as I recall). Target shooters routinely trim meplats to make them more uniform, which makes them more accurate, which is why meplat-trimming tools exist. See for example https://bullettipping.com/reloading-glossary/meplat-trimming/. Compare the drilled/trimmed tip (left) with the factory tip (right). It's easy to see that the drilled/trimmed tip is more uniform (including more centered). The material lost to the operation is less than 0.1 grains, according to my measurements.

1689136446166.png
 
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Tricks like these are as old as the hills but nothing has changed if you want/need good terminal performance on game of whatever size at whatever range.
With a dedicated hunting bullet specified for the game class, lets say our NZ red deer the rule of thumb for reliable kills for well placed shots is 2000fps and 1000ftlbs energy at impact regardless of distance.
If we are to properly respect our game and we should in order to dispatch them humanely so not to discredit our sport we should be very focussed on the terminal performance one can only achieve with a dedicated hunting bullet and not some conjured up attempt at one.

Here below is one of the world best terminal performance sites focussed on that and not ballistic performance, the subject of this thread:

Here, in the Knowledgebase section much guidance is offered for all popular calibers which projectiles will reliably perform which if we are to properly respect our game it would be wise to study.

That web site's article about the 8x57JS Mauser cartridge (https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/8x57JS+Mauser.html) recommends drilling a Sierra bullet, concluding that proper drilling produces "spectacular results" and makes the bullet an "effective killer" of NZ-sized game:

1689137005186.png
If you read some of the long-range hunting forums, you'll find that the Berger Hybrid 215-grain target bullet is the most popular 30-caliber bullet for long-range hunting of both deer and elk, and is championed by some widely recognized experts there (e.g. broz). Those threads are easy to find. No bullet style enjoys invariably positive terminal-ballistics reports, but the 215 is extremely popular for deer and elk. The threads include lots of photographic evidence of reliable and spectacular terminal performance.

Do you homework before posting, and avoid speculating. Your posts will have more credibility that way.
 
Couldn't read the file(me being computer challenged)..... so if this was discussed or explained,excuse/ignore this response.

Would be curious about the accuracy of the drilling? To the point(ha) of,not so much any fixturing but spin testing that "should" follow. So are you testing for any balance issues after drilling?

Just saying that bullet making is a swaging process.... to introduce ANYTHING that disrupts this makes me nervous(from a bughole standpoint,not personal safety in the shop environment).
As I mention above, you can tell if a bullet is yawing or otherwise failing to achieve gyroscopic stability by the shape of the hole it makes in a paper target. For example, if a bullet is tumbling when it reaches a paper target, most of the time you'll see a slot-shaped hole in the paper where the bullet tumbled through it. (Try shooting a 22LR at paper at long range. If you can hit the paper, you may see some evidence of tumbling!) If a bullet is yawing, the hole it makes passing through the paper will be noticeably larger than the diameter of the bullet. I have shot several types of drilled and trimmed bullets at targets, and have seen no such evidence of loss of gyroscopic stability. Nor have I lost accuracy. The bullets just drop very slightly more (around 1/2" at 500 yards) because opening up the tip creates a bit more drag, which slightly lowers the BC.

Again, remember that some competitive (target) shooters routinely trim meplats to enhance accuracy. You just have to use the right tools and procedure. (Don't be nervous, be informed and competent.) Meplat trimming has the side effect of enlarging the hole in the tip. Drilling does it a bit more. You should be able to see in the picture I posted above that my drilled/trimmed bullet's tip is more exactly uniform (more concentric, in particular) than the factory tip. Factory tips (of open-tip bullets, whether hunting or target) can be pretty ragged, even on Berger bullets. . . .
 
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Why? Why not just buy a bullet for the application?
Here's a whole thread on the subject in one of the long-range forums, explaining some reasons others say they do it: https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/berger-prep-for-terminal-performance.236995/. Take a look. Watch the video at
to see a motorized meplat trimmer used by target shooters. If you read my document, you'll see I cite an article by a terminal-ballistics expert employed by the U.S. Army and many police forces suggesting to those agencies the possibility of drilling SMKs precisely to improve terminal ballistics, after he himself experimented with the practice and found it effective. It's not as crazy as it sounds, if you know what you're doing.

As for why not buying a bullet for the application, I can give you three reasons.

(1) Even "hunting" bullets such as the Berger 156-grain .264 EOL sometimes don't expand nearly fast enough to have effective terminal ballistics. (I mention this case in my post and document, and cite a Barbour Creek video that shows you how slowly that "hunting" bullet expands. I built a custom 264 Win Mag around this bullet. I had to figure out how to make it expand, if I wanted to hunt it knowing it would expand as quickly as most Berger hunting bullets do.) The drilling/trimming operations can change that dramatically. That EOL went from expanding at around one foot to expanding after 1.5" (like most Berger hunting bullets) after I drilled and trimmed it. The difference was night and day. (You see a variant of this argument in the forums: some say bullet tips sometimes come out of the factory clogged, and one can use a drill bit to unclog the tip, which the posters report makes the bullet expand more reliably.)

(2) Some folks are committed to hunting with a particular open-tip target bullet (especially certain Bergers and the Sierra MatchKing). With a bit of work, they can have their cake and eat it too, so to speak. (If you can't talk them out of using the target bullet, help them make the bullet behave more like a hunting bullet on impact.) I have found that the 220-grain SMK, modestly drilled, is terrific on stout game such as nilgai. (My guide on the King Ranch said the same thing. Nilgai are famous for running when shot. Both of mine dropped right where they stood. Terminal ballistics were perfect. He was impressed.) Why folks are committed to hunting with target bullets may have to do with accuracy, high BC, or availability (see below).

(3) Especially during the pandemic, there were whole years where I couldn't get the hunting bullets I wanted, because they were sold out--or hunting bullets in the weight and style I wanted didn't exist. For example, I wanted a 180-grain 7mm Berger hunting bullet, but it was always sold out; and I wanted a 190-grain Berger 7mm hunting bullet, but Berger doesn't make one. They do make a dandy target bullet in that weight, and my experiments concluded that bullet can be made to expand like a hunting bullet, with a very little drilling and trimming. (A variant of this reason is, someone buys a few hundred target bullets, perhaps on bad advice about their suitability for hunting, and doesn't want to waste or replace them.)

As I wrote at the start of this thread, I'm not recommending the practice. I'm reporting my experience and research, in case someone finds it informative. If you think drilling and trimming are a dumb idea, for heaven's sake don't do it. I did this research because I am a trained engineer, and the research reflects how I approach technical problems. Years ago I stumbled onto the idea and wanted to try it with a bunch of SMKs I had left over from my early days of long-range hunting, after a bad experience with a factory SMK hitting an elk in the heart/lungs region but not killing it. I studied the idea very carefully, experimented very carefully, and eventually arrived at some great results. (In retrospect, I wish every SMK I ever shot at an animal had been drilled and trimmed.) I also read reports of very mixed results by folks hunting with undrilled/untrimmed hunting bullets, especially SMKs. I thought perhaps my experience and research might lead someone to a more humane way of hunting.
 
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That web site's article about the 8x57JS Mauser cartridge (https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/8x57JS+Mauser.html) recommends drilling a Sierra bullet, concluding that proper drilling produces "spectacular results" and makes the bullet an "effective killer" of NZ-sized game:

View attachment 1457534
If you read some of the long-range hunting forums, you'll find that the Berger Hybrid 215-grain target bullet is the most popular 30-caliber bullet for long-range hunting of both deer and elk, and is championed by some widely recognized experts there (e.g. broz). Those threads are easy to find. No bullet style enjoys invariably positive terminal-ballistics reports, but the 215 is extremely popular for deer and elk. The threads include lots of photographic evidence of reliable and spectacular terminal performance.

Do you homework before posting, and avoid speculating. Your posts will have more credibility that way.
Todd, congrats for following the link provided and having a good ol' study.

WRT the caliber you quote I have never met anyone here that uses 8mm here in NZ for deer however no doubt there are some.
You state 215gr 30 cal are popular yet we have no game that require such power when most popular for LR work here are the 7mm magnums due to their superior BC at ranges where we must also buck incessant wind. A few run 338's in various flavours for extreme range.

~500yds here is considered a long shot however I know those that have gone well past that with the right gear and able to place shots precisely however we each have widely varying environments and techniques in where we hunt.

Family and relatives have been bush hunters for decades taking deer at very close range at times to a couple 100yds across valleys and well remember an uncle tipping and crossing WW2 FMJ's with his knife.....~60yrs ago !
He experimented with drilling too but found it wasn't any further beneficial.

Today we have much more choice.....and can handload for even better results.
 
If you can afford the extortion money, there is Tubbs nosering tool that cuts a groove around the meplat causing expansion. It was designed for the DTAC. I got a few samples with a TMS kit but have not shot them yet. Or just buy the bullets already cut.


 
Randy Selbly, while being a little too preachy in many of his videos, knows a lot about bullets specifically designed to bring down game animals.

 
Another AS member, LPreddick shared with me his method of getting some Cheek match bullets to open up on varmints. It involved using a 1/6 drill after a slight file job on the tip, and I tried it. It works like a charm with no real loss in varmint accuracy. Hits like a brick, doesn't go thru. I used it on some 66 gr Cheek 6mm. I eventually went to 55 grain NBT, which dollar for dollar are as expensive as those cheeks, and they open up fine. Driven at 3400 in a 6x50 RWS

He advised using a chucked bullet turned real slow (B and D drill) against a file till a hand held 1/16 drill fit in the nose. Using hand turned drill with a little handle, turn it into the nose getting pigtail. Polish off scratches with a 45ACP case filled with steel wool. Load and shoot.

AS far as doing this for game bullets? I don't think I would do it when good bullets are available.
 
Drilling rifle bullets? Are you kidding or is this real? I thought I've seen and heard everything but this one wins the prize. With all the high-performance bullets on the market today why would anyone even consider doing something like this?

Sorry, but I can't help commenting on this because some poor new shooter is going to try this, I'm afraid.
How about the guy several years ago on this website that asked about annealing bullets. Keep it simple.
 

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