Drill bit speed

[mike a]

I'm going to drill in a Boyds laminate for pillars. 9/16 I'm wondering what speed and is there a specific bit I should use. I've done a few without great success. Mike

 

[Johnny_V]

I'd never do it with a drill, but did one on my milling machine using a 5/8" end mill. Forgot the speed, but a solid setup is required.

 

[mike a]

I'd never do it with a drill, but did one on my milling machine using a 5/8" end mill. Forgot the speed, but a solid setup is required.
View attachment 1125454
View attachment 1125455

Fresh out of A Mill. This one didn't need pillars.

 

[TAJ45]

One hint is to put a backer, if possible, prob wood, on the side you will break out to prevent possible splintering.

Another is a stub drill (rigidity) should it be extra hard, wood. Exotic?

Wood drill bits are sharpened to a sharper nose angle than general purpose metal bits.
HTH.

 

[hoz53]

I'm going to drill in a Boyds laminate for pillars. 9/16 I'm wondering what speed and is there a specific bit I should use. I've done a few without great success. Mike

if youre gonna use a drill press id use a router bit - they are designed to run at high speed but i have had good luck at a couple hundred rpm in my mill. higher speed woukd pro be better-- end mill as said will also work.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Get the score high pillar drilling jig. It has a piloted bit and does a wonderful straight job

 

[DaveTooley]

I use piloted carbide counter bores and run them in a drill press.

 

[Papa Charlie]

Seems like a Forstner Bit would work well, unless you are drilling through metal, but they work exceptionally well on fiberglass and stabilized wood. Just clear the chips as you go and don't get in a rush. Let the bit do the work.

 

[CZ_Lilja]

You've got a bunch of good answers, but on laminates, I like the solid cutout hole saws shown in the picture, or endmills as mentioned.

I think I got the hole saws in a box set on the MLCS woodworking site.

Compared to metals, speed isn't a big factor when drilling wood, as long as you don't overfeed it and cause tearouts or burning.

EDIT - I guess this is a Forstner bit, not a "hole saw." You'd think I'd know that by now.

 

[hogpatrol]

Like Dave Tooley posted. This one is HSS but are also made in carbide.

 

[mike a]

Like Dave Tooley posted. This one is HSS but are also made in carbide.

View attachment 1125493

Is carbide really needed for laminate?

 

[Papa Charlie]

No it is not required. A good Forstner drill bit like shown in post #9 will do very well. You don't need to spend a fortune on special milling bits. You do have to use any tool correctly, don't force it, just let the tool do the work.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I have a set of piloted bits if youd like to use them

 

[tobnpr]

Piloted counterbore is how I do it as well...

 

[mike a]

I have a set of piloted bits if youd like to use them

WOW, thanx Dusty but I'm a "gotta have my own" kind of guy. Mike

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I figure a harbor freight set will last forever on stocks

 

[msinc]

Hogpatrol, as usual, and tobnpa have the right idea...I have always referred to them as a "spot facer" and they can be had with changeable pilots. Speed is not terribly critical, mostly because the pilot stabilizes the bit as it is cutting. I like to run them kind of fast as it cuts smoother that way.

 

[jepp2]

Get the score high pillar drilling jig. It has a piloted bit and does a wonderful straight job

You must have better luck with them than I have. Straight yes, but every one, the bit grabs and feeds too faster breaking out the thin wall between the rear action screw and the trigger well.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

You must have better luck with them than I have. Straight yes, but every one, the bit grabs and feeds too faster breaking out the thin wall between the rear action screw and the trigger well.
View attachment 1125586

Yea man i never seen that happen.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Heres my set



And heres the MSC part no