Drill and tap an M96?

[Bill Score]

Weird question, but I picked up a Swedish M96 at an estate sale pretty cheap. It’s a mixmaster, but the bore is good and shoots decent enough for irons and PPU ammo. Kinda want to drill and tap it/have the bolt handle bent and scope it up. Anybody messed around with these?

 

[paperpuncher]

IMO they are pretty decent shooters. Popular for vintage sniper matches. Easy enough to drill and tap although doing so affects collector value but if its a mismatched rifle anyway probably wouldnt feel as guilty

 

[pintopete]

Bill, yes messed with them a bit. They are typically one of the finer manufactured, fit, and finish small ring Mauser rifles. Is yours a '96, or a 96/38? In 1938 the Swedes modified the early '96 long rifles to a shorter version, dubbed the '96/38 (29" vs 24" barrel). I know you stated '96, but not everyone knows of this conversion. In any case, they are a very nice military Mauser, plus 6.5x55 caliber. They sure will kill whitetail deer quite well! The 24" version is handier for sporting use. By "mixmaster", I assume you mean mixed numbers? Check the headspace if the bolt is non-matching. It's up to you about modifying it. With military Mausers it is a slippery slope. First it is drill tap for scope, then you must bend the bolt handle, or replace it, then the trigger, then the safety, then the stock. All of the sudden you have more in it than it is worth, or than you can purchase a Rem 700 or other similar rifle for. Unless you can do the work yourself. Or you can likely turn it around for a profit.

Best of luck, Peter.

 

[wkdickinson]

I know your concern is a 96 Mauser, but I am in the middle of the same type of project (more a "project" than worrying about the practicality) on a 98. I found a used B-square scope mount drilling fixture on ebay and drilled the receiver myself. The fixture worked really well! The holes are perfectly centered and they aligned with the pic rail exactly. I'd read a lot about Mausers being hard to drill - mine was not. I used a freshly sharpened #31 twist drill with the bushing in the fixture, a drill press a medium speed with medium pressure. Tapping also was easy with a new Hanson tap. I made a "tapping" bushing for the fixture, which also helped a lot. My experience for what it's worth.

 

[Bill Score]

I appreciate the insights everybody. Still unsure what I will do. It’s a long barrel M96. The bolt was force matched to the receiver. Looks like the first number was ground down and restamped to match. Initially I was intrigued by their tight twist rates and maybe running some high BC reloads, but probably not worth it.

 

[Riesel]

If you managed to pickup that 96 for a song it is hard to justify the cost of converting to a more
modern sporting rifle doing the things pintopete referred to. Check on gunbroker for something
already done, scope bases and handle modified, and work from there. Pawn shops are also good places
to look. Even used rifle prices are all over the place so I'm not sure what one may find.

 

[Will Henry]

In the early years of my career, drilling and tapping and welding bolt handles on Mausers was a significant part of my business and I did hundreds. The 96 isn't much different than the 98 except for a couple of items. The rear of the bolt is thinner and one should use a heat sink to protect the threads. Also, the 96 uses a different rear base. On the front, be sure to drill the rear hole ahead of the locking lug seat. WH

 

[joshb]

I had an M38 drilled for a scope. It’s one of my favorite rifles. I have 2 ‘96s. I was thinking of converting one for a scope. Some where I saw a pic of one set up with a pistol scope with the long eye relief, so the bolt could remain as is. I need a scope, these days. It’s still on my to do list. Good luck with yours!

 

[Ggmac]

I was just going to say , watch where you drill the front hole . You dont want to be half in the front lug . Dayton traister has a cock on opening conversion if that bothers you .

 

[Infrequent Shooter]

M902/828M Swedish Mauser 94/96, Matte

This Swedish Mauser scope mount from Warne Scope Mounts is made in the U.S. with steel for superior strength and a low profile.

warnescopemounts.com

I like Warne stuff. assuming I don't grind'flatten the receiver would these be OK? Do you guys use a jig? And please explain hole placement half in the front lug.

 

[Dimner]

Weird question, but I picked up a Swedish M96 at an estate sale pretty cheap. It’s a mixmaster, but the bore is good and shoots decent enough for irons and PPU ammo. Kinda want to drill and tap it/have the bolt handle bent and scope it up. Anybody messed around with these?

I think if you sold it, even a mix match serial one, you would have plenty of dollars to get an already sporterized version and some cash left over.. Those m96s are well adored in some of the vintage military rifle comp formats.

Now if you are looking for the journey, not the destination, meaning pleasure in doing the work yourself, that's a different situation. Fine platform to do so. I have a non modified and matching version. Just a really great fit and finish

 

[Jon Leary]

My first gunsmithing project was a 94 swede action. I got it for 15 dollars. Fajen's stock, Friends takeoff 308 target barrel, cock on opening, timney trigger, bolt handle. I eventually made a model 70 style safety and bolt sleeve. I have been shooting it almost every week in our cast bullet shoot. Thousands of rounds over the years.

 

[DGP4]

You can use an S&K scout scope mount in the rear sight base and avoid making a permanent change in the receiver. I use them in a 93 Spanish Mauser and a M44 Mosin Carbine and it works great. They are machined from steel to tight tolerances and far superior to the junk aluminum versions sold on eBay and Amazon.

 

[Dimner]

I had an M38 drilled for a scope. It’s one of my favorite rifles. I have 2 ‘96s. I was thinking of converting one for a scope. Some where I saw a pic of one set up with a pistol scope with the long eye relief, so the bolt could remain as is. I need a scope, these days. It’s still on my to do list. Good luck with yours!

S&k make mounts for the Ong eye relieve scopes and it takes no permanent alterations. The mount replaces the rear elevator type sight. Super easy install. Solid enough for me to come up with 1moa hunting handloads at 100 yards with my 38/96 or what ever the shortened version of the swedish Mauser is called.

Edit: Oh looks like DGP4 beat me to it. I agree with him. They are great!

 

[Sniperhandle]

M902/828M Swedish Mauser 94/96, Matte

This Swedish Mauser scope mount from Warne Scope Mounts is made in the U.S. with steel for superior strength and a low profile.

warnescopemounts.com

I like Warne stuff. assuming I don't grind'flatten the receiver would these be OK? Do you guys use a jig? And please explain hole placement half in the front lug.

If you use a jig, You won't have to worry about drilling in the wrong place. Some Swedes are harder than woodpecker lips. Carbide drills go through like butter.

 

[Infrequent Shooter]

You guys that have DT an 1896 Swede, did you ever give any thought to removing the rear sight setup and drilling the 'front' part of the scope base there? Sort of like some older rifles. (700 and 70) used to have the barrel tapped for a unertl type scope setup?