Drift rod - brass hardness

[1Merlin]

I need a drift rod to tap out pressed in rimfire barrels. I am planning on a .5 by 8" or 10" piece of brass rod to get this done. I see several different hardness of rod listed with "half hard" being the most common. Some are just described as lathe or milling stock. Any advise on what I should select would be appreciated.

 

[Hi-NV Shooter]

I need a drift rod to tap out pressed in rimfire barrels. I am planning on a .5 by 8" or 10" piece of brass rod to get this done. I see several different hardness of rod listed with "half hard" being the most common. Some are just described as lathe or milling stock. Any advise on what I should select would be appreciated.

Merlin, Are these Anschutz rifles? regardless you want not real soft , but nothing too hard I use 360 brass rod
make sure it is as close to the bolt diameter so it will be flat against the breech face and can't get angled to the face. some extractor cuts are fairly thin and you don't want to dent one.

Lee

 

[1Merlin]

Thanks Lee. Went ahead with the order. And yes to the Anschutz. 2013 and I am still trying different barrels.

 

[Hi-NV Shooter]

Thanks Lee. Went ahead with the order. And yes to the Anschutz. 2013 and I am still trying different barrels.

Merlin, if it is a 2013 isn't the barrel clamped on? this is the square action?

Lee

 

[1Merlin]

Yes it's clamped on but it is definitely a tight fit and can't be removed without some tapping - firm tapping. A Lilja is looser but the factory barrels I have take a dead blow hammer to insert and a brass rod to remove. After three barrels it turns out that the factory ~18" barrel outshoots everything I have tried in the action.

 

[Hi-NV Shooter]

Yes it's clamped on but it is definitely a tight fit and can't be removed without some tapping - firm tapping. A Lilja is looser but the factory barrels I have take a dead blow hammer to insert and a brass rod to remove. After three barrels it turns out that the factory ~18" barrel outshoots everything I have tried in the action.

ok now I understand.

Lee

 

[grauhanen]

Merlin is probably aware of this, but for the general reader interested in the 2013 action and barrel removal, make sure the set screw that aligns the extractor is loosened (see red arrow below). The barrel should be able to be pulled out.

 

[1Merlin]

Thank you grauhanen... I am (now) aware of that and hopefully someone will read this, prior to their first barrel change, and learn this fact easier than I did.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I took the time to make, what I call, a barrel removal press. It's main use is to replace broken cartridge guides in Marlin 80 series bolt action rifles:

The concept involves stripping the barrel of sights and the trigger assembly from the action. The front plate slides over the barrel and butts up against the receiver. The rear plate butts up against the back face of the receiver. Consider, at this point, any cross pins attaching the barrel to the receiver have been removed. Seems to work better that way.
The rear plate is threaded for ½-28 threaded rod and a brass cap is screwed onto the working end of the threaded rod. A couple of jam-nuts on the rear end are used to turn the rod forward and gently push the barrel forward. Most often there are internal burrs created from those cross holes being drilled in place and then driven in.
No pounding going on, so the chamber/breech face is not injured in any manner.
I made a fixture very similar to this one to remove Makarov barrels from their receiver. So, I see no reason why a fixture like this couldn't help in similar instances.

 

[1Merlin]

SGW an outstanding idea. I am going to fabricate something like your fixture for my needs. Thanks for this idea....

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

SGW an outstanding idea. I am going to fabricate something like your fixture for my needs. Thanks for this idea....

If you have any questions feel free to ask.