Do it yourself Stock making thread
- Thread starter joshb
- Start date
Bully
Silver $$ Contributor
Thank you.That looks good! You’re on your way!
I know you covered it but just so I don't need to go back in the thread...
How did you open the action inlet? I'm planning to run a 1.25" diameter round nose bit down the length of the barrel/action channel. I know the Remington 700 is something like 1.35" diameter. Do I wrap sand paper around the action and open it that way or should I buy a 1.5" bit and (since I'm going to pillar bed) open it that way?
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Hi! I use the 1 1/4”. If you’re using my jig set up, set the straight edge router guides so the bit runs down the center of the stock. Cut about an eighth of an inch deep at a time. When you’re 1/2” deep, check to make sure you’re cutting the center by measuring from the edge of the cut to the side of the blank.( most routers are off center a little. Mine’s off 1/16”. I adjust my straight edges to compensate for it) my typical action depth cut is 5/8” to 3/4”, depending on my barrel. I set fat barrels deeper.
When you cut your final depth, leave your router set there. Move both your guides out 1/16” to make the cut 1 3/8” wide. Cut that slowly with the router, to avoid tear out. Check width. I like 1/32” bigger on each side of the action for bedding. You’ll find a little hump in the bottom of the cut. I sand that down with a 1 1/4” dowel wrapped in sandpaper.
If you want to follow the sides of your barrel contour, use a 3/4” or 1” core box bit and set your guides accordingly. Just draw your barrel contour on the top of your blank and set your guides off those lines.
Example: My router base is 6” wide. I use a 1” bit. That makes the distance between the edge of my bit to the edge of my base 2 1/2” so I clamp my guides 2 1/2” from my barrel lines. Here’s one I’m working on:
I followed the barrel profile on this one, with a little room for air cooling. Don’t notice that miscut!
Make sure your clamps are tight!
I’ll fix it with an inlay.
On this Tikka, I made a straight 1 1/4” cut for the barrel.
There’s another reason for some extra room on the sides of the action. This blank is kiln dried Sepele’. When I cut thru it for the magazine well, it bowed 1/8” out of straight. One of the reasons why I like to make these cuts first. I can fix it in the butt forming.
Notice how the barrel is tight to one side of the channel?
When you cut your final depth, leave your router set there. Move both your guides out 1/16” to make the cut 1 3/8” wide. Cut that slowly with the router, to avoid tear out. Check width. I like 1/32” bigger on each side of the action for bedding. You’ll find a little hump in the bottom of the cut. I sand that down with a 1 1/4” dowel wrapped in sandpaper.If you want to follow the sides of your barrel contour, use a 3/4” or 1” core box bit and set your guides accordingly. Just draw your barrel contour on the top of your blank and set your guides off those lines.
Example: My router base is 6” wide. I use a 1” bit. That makes the distance between the edge of my bit to the edge of my base 2 1/2” so I clamp my guides 2 1/2” from my barrel lines. Here’s one I’m working on:
I followed the barrel profile on this one, with a little room for air cooling. Don’t notice that miscut!
Make sure your clamps are tight! I’ll fix it with an inlay.On this Tikka, I made a straight 1 1/4” cut for the barrel.
There’s another reason for some extra room on the sides of the action. This blank is kiln dried Sepele’. When I cut thru it for the magazine well, it bowed 1/8” out of straight. One of the reasons why I like to make these cuts first. I can fix it in the butt forming.
Notice how the barrel is tight to one side of the channel?
Last edited:
Bully
Silver $$ Contributor
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joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
You might find it difficult, if not impossible to do the cuts on a router table. Making the jigs and using a handheld router with the guides and stops allows you to see and adjust your cuts. It’s low tech but it has it’s advantages.
LarryDScott
Site $$ Sponsor
I thought that looked mighty familiar. LDS
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Hey Larry! It’s been delayed for a while but I’m finally getting her done. I was planning on giving this to one of the kids I’m mentoring but that brake has me reconsidering. I have one without a brake that he could get instead. The “kid” is a husky 40 year old!
He doesn’t really need a brake.Thanks again for it!
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
What the Heck!!!!!! Where is Bumblebee????
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
I always do my personal builds last. These two are Christmas presents. I’m also doing a prone stock for an esteemed member here. When that one is done, I’ll do the Bumblebee. I’m thinking about a different shape for it. Maybe like a 40x? Maybe just a hunter style?What the Heck!!!!!! Where is Bumblebee????
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
Ok all sounds good - I’ll be looking forward to seeing Bb
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
The best way to do your first one. Looks good!
I have my friend Kris make my Wood Stocks.
I'm better off doing what I do since he is a master at making some pretty nice stocks,,, the G / F Class stock was designed by another friend of mine here in Western Canada.
http://www.mcrstactical.com/
Quick, simple, easy, and fast.
It took him a few days from the time he started till it was at my door.
Laminated Red tinge Pine with Birds Eye Maple on the sides.
I give full credit to those that are able to do this for them selves, it's alot of work beyond my means,,, I let the team I work with build what I need,,, my job is to spend time at the range putting those boolitz into the V ring.
Don
I'm better off doing what I do since he is a master at making some pretty nice stocks,,, the G / F Class stock was designed by another friend of mine here in Western Canada.
http://www.mcrstactical.com/
Quick, simple, easy, and fast.
It took him a few days from the time he started till it was at my door.
Laminated Red tinge Pine with Birds Eye Maple on the sides.
I give full credit to those that are able to do this for them selves, it's alot of work beyond my means,,, I let the team I work with build what I need,,, my job is to spend time at the range putting those boolitz into the V ring.
Don
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
I bet you have some terrific wood up their to choose from. I wonder how much Canadian wood is imported here for gun stocks.
1.250 bit arrived. Sunday or Monday will be the big day...
Bully- My 2 Cents -Hope this helps--Try your best to take your time. How much experience do you have with routers/ router table? Some of this maybe old news if you already know. Above you mention a router table, if thats how you are going to try the barrel and action inlet I would take it easy on the depth of your cutting pass. I would set the very first pass as shallow as you can while making just a small mark down the centerline of the blank. You want that first cutting pass to be 1/16" or so...just so you can check if you have the correct alignment and are going to be able to repeat the cut. I also would do your best to press your blank against the router table fence hard, then slide along and make a pass, then increase your cut depth just a bit maybe a 1/8" or 1/16" in depth and run it again...repeat until you get desired depth. The table is going to be hard in my experience, but not impossible, grab a few pieces of scrap and pratice before you try your blank, you want to get a feel for the machine, and the direction of cut/ direction of rotation of the bit. Practice will help you gain some confidence before the stressful part. It will be alot easier in my opinion to do multiple shallow passes for your first rodeo than to try and bulk out the material, especially on a table vs plunge router. The shallower passes across the table will help keep you from getting chip out or the bit grabbing to much and possibly spliting the edge. If I were you I'd use your 1.25" box core bit to run the entire length of the stock, from muzzle end to the back of the action area. That way you have a channel cut the whole length and you can open up the action area while using that quality centerline cut. Keep us updated, I'll do my best with my limited knowledge to help anyway I can
Bully
Silver $$ Contributor
@CStuck That's my plan. Multiple shallow cuts to desired depth. I don't want to go crazy especially given that I'm on plywood as I'm pretty sure it'll basically blow up into a frenzy of chips. Also, my bit is on the cheap side. I don't want to risk going too fast with something of somewhat questionable quality.
Thanks for all your help. This stock is based off the pics you sent. Much appreciated.
Thanks for all your help. This stock is based off the pics you sent. Much appreciated.
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