Do it yourself Stock making thread

[heydogman]

 

[Bc'z]

Thats gonna be beautiful when it's done.

 

[GunmanBlue]

That grain in the butt is going to pop when you get some oil into it. I cant wait to see it finished up.

 

[TrxR]

Any of you guys make your own wood scrapers? Any good resources out there on how to make your own? Im thinking one in the same profile as the action might come in handy as well as one for the barrel channel. As well as some other places.

Thanks

 

[heydogman]

Any of you guys make your own wood scrapers? Any good resources out there on how to make your own? Im thinking one in the same profile as the action might come in handy as well as one for the barrel channel. As well as some other places.

Thanks

You can shape them out of old handsaw blades.

 

[heydogman]

That grain in the butt is going to pop when you get some oil into it. I cant wait to see it finished up.

I'm trying to decide on mild or wild.

 

[Bc'z]

I'm trying to decide on mild or wild.

Dye that sumbitch!!!!
Here's why....
Tru oilsame stock dyed light n day difference.
The figure will look good with oil, but it'll be out of this world amazing with dye!

 

[joshb]

I'm trying to decide on mild or wild.

Listen to Bc’z! A good die job attracts pretty girls, too!

 

[CStuck]

View attachment 1115376

Thats going to be a handsome stock there bud. I've always thought flame birch was a gorgeous wood!


I worked on some checkering over the weekend. I still need to do some work around the border area and point up the diamonds, but its getting closer. Not perfect but improving my skills one stock at a time





The edge work is probably the hardest in my opinion, getting the checkering deep enough and tight to the border is a time consuming and tedious process

 

[joshb]

Nice job! I have a couple stocks that need checkering. I’m just too chicken to start!

 

[CStuck]

Nice job! I have a couple stocks that need checkering. I’m just too chicken to start!

It's not too bad, just takes a steady hand, and lots of patience. Finding the tools is a bit of a challenge as well. When you do start, I'd be happy to help and share some tips I have picked up doing it.

 

[heydogman]

Listen to Bc’z! A good die job attracts pretty girls, too!

Remember the curly maple BR stock I made. The only female at the range came over to see it up close. Hey, there might be something to this.

 

[heydogman]

Dye that sumbitch!!!!
Here's why....
Tru oilView attachment 1115523same stock dyedView attachment 1115524 light n day difference.
The figure will look good with oil, but it'll be out of this world amazing with dye!

But it's a hunting rifle. Ok, long as it ain't fluorescent orange.

 

[heydogman]

Nice job! I have a couple stocks that need checkering. I’m just too chicken to start!

It does look good. Not so sure my hands are steady enough anymore.

 

[Bc'z]

I'm thinking rootbeer. You'll need
Black
brown
vintage amber "I'll teach you how to make honey amber"
Red.

 

[TrxR]

What finish would you all recommend for walnut?

Thanks.

 

[joshb]

What finish would you all recommend for walnut?

Thanks.

Preacher’s oil.

 

[CStuck]

What finish would you all recommend for walnut?

Thanks.

I use boiled linseed oil & japan dry. It is not the most ideal finish in some peoples' opinion, but it works if you take your time and rub it a billion times. I like it because if the stock gets scratched or dinged up and you have to refinish it at a later date, the linseed oil will color match pretty well. Stains/dyes and other finishes are more difficult to color match once they age.

 

[GunmanBlue]

Preacher’s oil.

Silly question,

What do you mean by Preachers Oil.

I cant find any such thing here in Australia. (Google, Hardware store etc)

Cheers.

 

[Fast14riot]

So, got a couple issues going on that I could use some ideas from others. First (pic #1), the entire butt is tapered towards the grip, when thinning the tracking area this will create some funky lines in the profile. Do I just go old school and freehand/blend as best as possible reducing the thickness to an even amount only on the bottom 1/3? Or, should I go for the true flat and constant width/taper with a modified coffin profile (similar to a Shehane tracker) and potentially end up with a butt that's 1-3/8" wide all the way back?

Next is action inletting (pic #2 & #3). Specifically the tang area. Inletting is very close to correct width, a little shallower than a R700 inletted stock (walnut 40XBR stock for comparison), but I'm just wondering if I should just do an over fill with devcon and completely mill a new channel at the proper depth and width? IIRC, 11/16" radius is adequate for a R700?

Ideally, I would like to keep the modified visible areas natural wood as much as possible, it is nice maple after all, so just throwing a glob of filler and milling a new tang area will only be done as a last resort.