Do it yourself Stock making thread

[joshb]

I offered to show another forum member how to make one of my stocks. Although he's hesitant, some other guys have asked if I would show them. I'm going to make copies of the patterns I use, send them out and then lead them thru the process. I'll start a couple stocks, describe how and what I'm doing and post lots of pictures. I'll do stocks for a Rem 700 and a Tikka. If any one else wants to do one, PM me your address and I'll put you on the mailing list. I figure that if I'm going to type it out , there may be some other guys that might want to do one. Let me know, Josh



I should add something. These stocks can be "tweaked" to your favorite style of shooting, during the build. They can be made longer, wider, have a flat bottom butt, etc. I usually make them with a 4-5" long flat spot on the forend for shooting off a rest. That area can be 2-4" wide or the entire forend can be wider. They can also be cut short and made thinner for a lighter hunting rifle. I'll be making mine repeaters with bottom metal but they can be made as single shot . The forend can be cut to expose the magazine or be cut flat from the mag well to the tip of the forend, like a prone Anschutz.

 

[Bully]

Your work is amazing and this is an incredibly generous offer. Thank you for making this community a better place.

 

[joshb]

I'm starting a list of tools needed:


Table saw or a circular saw with a good blade
Chop saw (compound miter box)
Drill press or a good jig for drilling holes 90 degrees to surface
Router: 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch shank capable
Bits:left to right
1 1/4 core box- for the barrel channel and Remington type actions
1" core box bit- for the side cut at the grip, the cheek piece cut and Tikka t3 actions (can also be used in place of the 1 1/4" bit to save money)
15 degree with bearing-for the top sides of the forend. You can make the cut on a table saw or use a plane but the bit is easier.
Flush cut bit
1/2" radius- for the bottom of the forend and the cheek piece cut
1/4, 1/2" and 5/8 cutters with bearings- for bottom metal
1/2" plunge spiral with 3" cutting surface- for bottom metal and trigger well (Forstner bits and chisels can be used instead)

Bandsaw or good jigsaw (for jigsaw get Bosch T101B blades. Best blade, ever)
Palm sander with at least 3 pads each of 80, 120,150,220,320,400,600 grit
Rotary disk sander (I use a cheap Wen from Home Depot online.) 60 or 80 grit disc
Drill
Grinder with 80 or 100 grit sanding pad
Files: 1 flat fine toothed and one 1/4 round (chainsaw sharpening type) for templates
Forstner bits
4" bar clamps-4 (small, deep throat c clamps will work)
18" bar clamps-2. 4 is better
6" metal rule that measures down to 1/32

 

[joshb]

The blank.
While I get the patterns drawn up, you need to find your blank. My first choice is walnut but I'm thinking of looking at some different "alternatives".
The blank should be 2 to 2 1/4 thick by 5 1/2 to 6 tall by 36-42 long. I glued up a blank with some figured maple I found at Home Depot and a piece of cherry I had left over. It is 2 1/4 by 5 1/2 by 36. I'm going to take a trip to a dealer soon, to look at some exotics. These 3/4 inch boards were planed when purchased so all I had to do was glue them up and clamp them. Glue is like grease between the boards when clamping so I put a couple nails at the ends to keep them lined up and square. The nails are in areas that will be cut off. I use TitebondII wood glue and as many clamps as I can get on the blank. White glue likes lots of pressure. A 2" blank will work but 2 1/4 gives you a little "room to breath". It's the old rule: You can always cut it off but you can't put it back. Kinda
If you want a stock with more drop in the butt, go 6" or more or you can glue another piece of wood on the butt. Look closely at the bottom pic, just forward of the recoil pad on the bottom.

 

[boltfluter]

Josh,

Should be a very interesting thread. What with my great wood working skills (not) this should be fun.

Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[joshb]

I should say this, now. I never went to Gunsmithing school. Heck, I never finished college. This "build" is a layman's stock. There are areas where I will cut corners to make the build easier, faster and less technically challenging. I think the end result functions just as well without those details. I'll point them out as I go along and you can decide if you want to spend the extra time to deal with it. For instance, the mag well. I like the design because it allows you to hide a 5 round mag in it and you can support the gun there without putting pressure on the mag. It also "hides" a sloppy inlet. You need a flashlight to see any gaps between your bottom metal and the wood. Makes it sooo much faster and easier to do.

 

[Cigarcop]

"Sloppy inlet"..... come on Josh!..... Lol

 

[hunter243sgk]

I am working on finding a decent sized wood blank. but no luck yet. I got all the tools. Any idea where i can find a nice hunk of wood?

 

[hunter243sgk]

When you glue them together why not pin nail them?

 

[tightneck]

I am working on finding a decent sized wood blank. but no luck yet. I got all the tools. Any idea where i can find a nice hunk of wood?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...tock+blank.TRS0&_nkw=gun+stock+blank&_sacat=0

Lots of sources for wood. Ebay wouldn't be where I picked out a high end blank, but you can usually find a cheap blank to get your feet wet. If you are looking for nice wood, I would look at Roger Vardy in Australia. Ask Butch Lambert to send you some pics of his Vardy wood rifles...

 

[hunter243sgk]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...tock+blank.TRS0&_nkw=gun+stock+blank&_sacat=0

Lots of sources for wood. Ebay wouldn't be where I picked out a high end blank, but you can usually find a cheap blank to get your feet wet. If you are looking for nice wood, I would look at Roger Vardy in Australia. Ask Butch Lambert to send you some pics of his Vardy wood rifles...

Thanks!!

 

[tightneck]

http://www.hunterbid.com/

http://oldworldwalnut.com/

http://rogervardystockwood.com/

 

[B_Thomas]

I am looking at making my own F class stock.

I designed the stock in CAD.............looking at sources to CNC from the 3D model.

 

[joshb]

"Sloppy inlet"..... come on Josh!..... Lol

Didn't I tell you the story about that long router bit "getting away from me" in one of those mag wells? It took quite a few ounces of epoxy filler to fix that mess! I guess I forgot to post pics

 

[joshb]

When you glue them together why not pin nail them?

You can do it anyway you want. I did mention "I ain't got college". If some one has a better way, chime in!

I put that laminated blank up for a specific reason. 3/4" lumber is available almost anywhere. I think using 1/4" layers would look spiffy but I'd have to cut those myself. The hobby stores charge way to much for 1/4" stock. Some guys may not have easy access to a solid blank. Some guys may not want to use a $1000 blank for thier first try.

 

[Cigarcop]

Ahh I was just messin with yah!!!

 

[rckendall]

I've done a fair amount of woodworking and furniture making, and I like Josh's example of three layers of 3/4" material, readily available at the local big box store. We all have visions of making something great, but for the first effort at this, most of us should just focus on learning the technique.

Thank you Josh!

Richard

 

[joshb]

The reasoning behind a wide, sharp, flat chisel. If it 'gets away from you' it won't take a quart of epoxy to fill the unintended void.

Yes,I agree.I did my first one "old school". It's a good way to do it, but time consuming and it takes a higher skill level.

If a guy makes a good jig, it can be used multiple times, be easier to do for a "layman" and be reasonably accurate.

 

[rckendall]

Shortgrass,
It sounds like you are well accomplished at all aspects of this and I respect that. I have built enough things to know that I may never build this into a rifle, but I would enjoy learning how to make a rifle stock like this. I am inclined to complete this project, as a project, and display it in my hobby room or maybe even my living room, just for my personal enjoyment. Then later, if I choose to build one for a specific purpose, I'll have the basic skills to do so.

If the instructor gives the method he does as a practice place to start, I see nothing wrong with that. If another student has visions of a masterpiece gunstock, then that is his prerogative. But please, let this continue as a place for beginers.

Respectfully,
Richard

 

[Bully]

Shortgrass,

Why don't you start your own thread and leave this one alone for all of us that simply like to learn about different ways and methods. I, for one, would appreciate it.

Respectfully and sincerely,
Topher