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Do I need to get some pillars before i bed this stock?

I just bought a stock that has no bedding or aluminum block. Its going on a trued Rem 700 with a 26" shilen 22-250. I was curious if I need to get some pillars and install them before I bed and if it would make that much difference? Thanks, Arky
 
I just bought a stock that has no bedding or aluminum block. Its going on a trued Rem 700 with a 26" shilen 22-250. I was curious if I need to get some pillars and install them before I bed and if it would make that much difference? Thanks, Arky
I'd install them when I am bedding. People do it both ways though. I like them so your tightening the guard screws against something that doesn't change (much)
 
I've never been a fan of pillars, particularly in stock materials that might move, ie wood. IMO while pillars stabilize where they're located, they do nothing to change the stiffness of the stock.

I prefer to bed a section of 3/4 inch wide aluminum of a suitable depth machined out for action screws & hardened antimarring washers. Attacking the sides with a dowelling drill run shallow gives it enough grab for the glue.

I use flat bottom actions, but you can manage round actions by machining the top of the block (or not as you wish). It'll work both ways once the action is bedded, the only difference being a marginal weight issue.

The set ups I'm thinking of used a front screw & one forward of the trigger; the tangs weren't bedded, so there wasn't a need to fiddle about for the trigger.
 
I've never been a fan of pillars, particularly in stock materials that might move, ie wood. IMO while pillars stabilize where they're located, they do nothing to change the stiffness of the stock.

I prefer to bed a section of 3/4 inch wide aluminum of a suitable depth machined out for action screws & hardened antimarring washers. Attacking the sides with a dowelling drill run shallow gives it enough grab for the glue.

I use flat bottom actions, but you can manage round actions by machining the top of the block (or not as you wish). It'll work both ways once the action is bedded, the only difference being a marginal weight issue.

The set ups I'm thinking of used a front screw & one forward of the trigger; the tangs weren't bedded, so there wasn't a need to fiddle about for the trigger.
That's interesting-- They had pillars in mausers long before I was born. Sure the wood may move but to me the idea of a pillar is to keep from smashing the wood down more and more. I think a devconned bedding area with pillars is pretty stable to. I do like stocks with the aluminum bedding channels in them the best. Funny I was thinking of how I might fasten some aluminum in a stock today before I read you post. I did not quite understand how you fasten the aluminum in the stock. Could you be more specific? I hope all this stuff is helping the OP
 
I just bought a stock that has no bedding or aluminum block. Its going on a trued Rem 700 with a 26" shilen 22-250. I was curious if I need to get some pillars and install them before I bed and if it would make that much difference? Thanks, Arky

My two cents: Laminated or a solid, high quality composite, not necessary, just bed and torque consistently. El Cheapo tupperware factory jobs or plain wood, yes.
 
I view pillars as more of a screw guide and prefer the action be pulled against only the bedding. I use them on weaker stocks to increase the footprint for the screw head and don't prefer it to touch the action.
 
I view pillars as more of a screw guide and prefer the action be pulled against only the bedding. I use them on weaker stocks to increase the footprint for the screw head and don't prefer it to touch the action.
I should say I don't want the pillars touching the action either. That's why some people mill a slot in the bedding. I like the solid pillar to tighten against on the bottom
 
Richards instructional videos are really worth the money to get his perspective as he is a master craftsman like Sid Goodling. Plus there is a bit of his humor as a bonus.
 

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