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dies for 284 win

I am going to rebarrel my 6.5x284 to a straight to 284 with a 32" barrel. I know that I want the forster seating die, but what is recommended for full length/bushing/neck types of dies. I am also looking to be economical. Thank you in advance
 
So far the best results I have had for sizing my .284 brass have been with a RCBS fl sizing die w/o the sizing button and a Sinclair expander mandrel. The Redding bushing dies (both FL and neck only) give me more runout on average. The downside is the RCBS die works the brass quite a bit but I anneal every firing. I just ordered a Whidden custom FL non-bushing die to get more shoulder set back control and minimize the amount of work on the neck. It costs about $100 which is not cheap, but if it helps my brass last longer it will be worth it to me.
 
chefpierre said:
I have no idea how the expander mandrel operates.

The mandrel sits in what looks like a die>>>but it does not touch the body at any point. When you neck-up, a mandrel is the only way to fly. They are tapered at the point, quickly expand up to the desired size (as in .264 to .284) and are STRAIGHT! If you turn necks, which you should, get a carbide mandrel for the turning mandrel. When you neck up OR down, there is a very slight "bulge" at the junction of the neck and shoulder>>>>if you don't turn that off, while cleaning up your necks, you will have that "bulge" go inside and become a doughnut.. Whenever you have, what might be considered a "wildcat" chambering, you need to go the extra mile unless you want problems to deal with later on. A phone call to Sinclair when you buy your mandrels and die body, ask to speak to a tech guy, he will help you out with your "expanding / neck turning" questions.
 
My 2 cents worth loading a .284. 1. Use Lapua brass, 2. get a Sinclair mandrel expander and die. 3. A Bench Source annealer. 4. Redding, Forester, Whidden FL size die with .309 neck. Use a Competition seater die set up for VLD bullets if you are going to shoot VLD bullets. Sized case and loaded case should be .3125" neck. Chamber neck should be .3175-.3185. Don't seat bullets with the bearing surface behind the neck shoulder juncture. If you shoot Berger 180s H-4831SC is the go to powder. This advice has been tried and true it will save you a hot of money and heart burn.
Nat Lambeth
 
Rustystud said:
If you shoot Berger 180s H-4831SC is the go to powder. This advice has been tried and true it will save you a hot of money and heart burn.
Nat Lambeth

Hey Good Morning Nat! As we type, I am having a .284 Shehane chambered for my 1000 yard F-Open rifle.. I know that H4831SC is, as you stated, the "go to" powder. However, I am going to try H1000. I have been working with that powder in my 6.5 x 284 til I burned my barrel out. I think that it can produce the same velocity as H4831 BUT with a bit lower pressures to keep those "ever expanding" primer pockets tight. Have you had any experience with H1000 OR even IMR 7828 which is the next powder I am going to try IF H1000 is not doing what I want?
 
My plans are to use an accurized Rem 700 LA, in a Tooley MBR, then add on a 32" brux 1.25" barrel in 284 win. Yes, I plan to shoot the 180 bergers or the next closest bullet out their. I am looking at the JLK's as well. I am planning on using the h4831sc, but I want to try some R17 as well. I recently had my newly rebarreled 6.5x47 returned and plan on using h4350, and varget, but also want to try R17. I am using the R17 in 6mm rem. with 107 smk and it shoots well. I have never necked up/down cases. This is the area where I have the most questions. I have annealed and don't have many questions about that, but I have never turned necks, and will need to buy the gear to perform this operation. Thanks for the input and help.
 

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