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die questions.... I'm confused.

bobinpa

Gold $$ Contributor
A bushing neck die re sizes the neck to a specific size.

A bushing FL die re sizes the body and makes the neck a specific size.
A body die just does the body and doesn't touch the neck at all. It should be used when it gets "hard" to close the bolt.......

If I just neck size for a number of times and size the body once in a while, doesn't this create an inconsistency? Why would I want to do that? Wouldn't I be better off using a FL bushing die all the time,to be consistant)? If I FL sized all the time would I over work my brass? Am I correct in my thinking or not and why? What are you guys doing and why?
Please help, Bob
 
Thanks for the replies! I guess I should have stated this in the first place...... I am shooting a 6.5 x 47 Lapua. I have the Redding Type S match die set and also the Type S full sizing die. I got the dies with the gun as a package. I am confused because I don't know why the gentleman had both the body die and the full length bushing die if they do the same job.

For example: If I use the full length bushing die does that accomplish the same thing as if I re size with the bushing neck die and use the body die occasionally? Does the body die re size the body of the case as much as the full length bushing die? I realise that if I full length size all the time my brass would fit "looser" in my chamber, but how much of a disadvantage is this? I am trying to be consistent without hurting accuracy.
Thanks again, Bob
 
Redding SB body dies are "usually" tighter at the base than their FL dies seem to be...
Having a choice is always a good thing when your hunting for all the advantages...
 
Man, I really hate to sound too thick headed, but:

Redding SB body dies are "usually" tighter at the base than their FL dies seem to be

I don't understand what you mean by "Redding SB body dies"..... What die are you referring to?
 
Now that I'm thinking: If I choose to use the bushing neck die and a body die "system" over the full length bushing die. Which die first. Right now my cases are a little tight. That is what started all of this. I thought it must be time to re size the whole case. Is it safe to assume that I want to decap and neck size first, then use the body die........ I know that must sound stupid but at this point, what the heck.
 
bobinpa,
The best way to size your brass is to use a FL die with neck and shoulder bump bushing EVERY time. Do this with REAL custom dies and not something just called custom.,Those that you can call up and have them shipped right out to you. How can that be custom to YOUR gun?) Custom dies are made to your chamber only.
As for over working the brass, you do not have to worry about that as long as the case are sized minimally. If you have a tight chamber, these are the type of dies you want. If you are shooting a factory chambered gun with a large neck, it is possible to over work the brass in the neck area and have them start to crack. That would not be the case with the body or shoulder of the brass because of the dies being made to your chamber. The only part of the brass that can not be controlled is the neck. It will expand to the size of the chamber and always have to be resized enough to hold the bullet. With the body/shoulder, it should be sized just enough to allow it to chamber. The better it fits the chamber, the more consistent it will shoot.
One last thing, do not fall into the belief of annealing brass. That is one of the most damaging things you can do to your brass.
I hope this helps. Any questions, let me know.

What part of Pa. are you from?
 
Although I agree, in principle, with 'ya Catshooter...

CatShooter said:
The ideal fit for a case in the chamber is 0.0001" clearance all around...
To bump the shoulder every time you load the case is just plain silly, and badd loading technique.

A fairly large percentage of BR shooters believe that it is preferable to use a FL sizer every time they reload. The goal is to get something like a .001" shoulder bump, a .0005" to .002" shoulder squeeze, and a .0005" squeeze at the web. They feel that you get more consistent chambering and feeding and some even feel that this leads to longer case life.

However, as OutKaste pointed out, you can only get this with a custom,or semi-custom in the case of the Harrell's) die.

CatShooter said:
1 - "... is to use a FL die with neck and shoulder bump bushing EVERY time

You can NOT bump a neck!

There is no such thing as a "shoulder bump bushing".

Neil Jones' dies have bushings that are fitted to the neck and shoulder of the case. Also, like 'em or not, Forster now has their bushing bump dies.

CatShooter said:
The shoulder bump die simply moves the shoulder back a few thou... and it's use is not too much. There is nothing that a custom bump die will do that an off the rack Redding bump die won't do... and no advantage to a custom die,except to the guy that makes it).

OTOH, there is no such thing as an "off the rack Redding bump die", hence the need for custom dies.

A "shoulder bump" is a minimal set back of the shoulder, usually on the order of .001" or so. I haven't seen how the Forster dies work, but I don't see how you can push the shoulder back without expanding the shoulder diameter also.

I disagree with your disparagement of custom dies, but I don't know of any empirical data to support their use. Personally, I've chosen to be a bit of a sheep in this respect and use what many of the top shooters use, i.e., custom dies.

CatShooter said:
As for over working the brass, you do not have to worry about that as long as the case are sized minimally.

FL dies do NOT size the case minimally... they FULL SIZE THE CASE - that's why they are called FL dies.

"... The better it fits the chamber, the more consistent it will shoot.

That's exactly why you DON'T FL size the case every time you load it.

He was talking about custom dies in this case, so, technically, he was correct. A custom die, as in a Jones' or Carstensen' die, or a semi-custom like a Harrells' will give you a minimal sizing at key points. The consistency comes from sizing the brass to the same dimensions every time instead of having a cycle where the brass is increasing in dimensions ever so slightly for a number of firings until it gets a much larger sizing down to make it fit again, e.g., using an off-the-shelf FL sizer or body die.

I don't really mean to defend OutKaste's post,he was completely off the map with the annealing comment), but he was kind'a right with some of his comments and it did address bobinpa's original post.

robert
 
Do any of you guys figure I should stop causing all that damage to all my poor old cases by annealing them?
If so, would anyone like to buy a Ken Light Annealer, with 3 different heads :D
 
Preacher

Maybe we can get Tom Sarver to quit also and you two can hold a group sale,sorry I am going to keep my annealer). He broke the World Record this year for 1k Light gun at 1.401" with cases that had been annealed 54 times and right now they have 80 annealings.

Would hate to see what the groups go to if guys like him really figure out how to do this correctly.:D

BH
 
You gentlemen are using the term "bump die", is a body die and a bump die the same thing?
Does a body die and a fl die re size the body and shoulder the same amount?
 
Thanks again! Does the FL die re size the body the same amount as a body die just without touching the neck?
 
I believe the FL die sizes the neck also. According to what I read on hear today, I think the best bet is to neck size, and bump the shoulder with the Redding body die when needed.
 
has any body seen the bright ring at the body sholder junction of a sized case/full length or shoulder bump die? that is a sign that the die is arresting the outward growth of the body of the case when the shoulder is pushed back. If you measure the case at both ends of the body before and after sizing you can tell how much the case is being sized. just some of my observations. ___treeman
 
Thanks for all the replies!!!!! I think I am going to size a couple with the body die and size a couple with the FL bushing die and compare them to see if they are the same. I will also see how much they size the case and then go from there.
Thanks again.
 
The body die and the bump die are the same thing. If you push the shoulder back without supporting the body, the body will get fat as the shoulder gets shorter... like pushing down on a ripe tomato

So the "Bump die" must control the body as the shoulder is pushed back.

All bump dies will support and/or size the body while setting back the shoulder, or the body will distort.

How does the new Forster bump and bushing die work?
 
I read the Houston Warehouse stuff several years ago. Others have had some differing results in their experimentation. Like you said in your original reply: "And if you ask 10 other guys, you will get 12 different answers." There just aren't a lot of definitive, proven answers.

CatShooter said:
rstreich said:
Neil Jones' dies have bushings that are fitted to the neck and shoulder of the case.

The bushings in Neil's dies are NOT fitted to the shoulder - you are debating about a product that you have no knowledge about.

I wasn't debating the issue--just stating the facts. I attached a picture of a Neil Jones' bushing next to a Redding bushing at the bottom of this post.

CatShooter said:
rstreich said:
Also, like 'em or not, Forster now has their bushing bump dies.

and I don't understand the "Like 'em or not" remark - I like Forster and use a bunch of their stuff - they have been very cooperative in making "Ultra seaters" that other guys would not make.

The "like 'em or not" was referring to the "bushing bump die" only. My bad. I have a lot of Forster products myself and have been very happy with them. I haven't seen a lot of comments on the bushing bump die, but they've been mixed.

CatShooter said:
But the point of this is that the Forster and the Neil Jones bushing are the same as the Redding bushing dies - same bushings,Forster's are a bit longer), and they are interchangeable.

Neither has bushings that touch the shoulder.

So it do appear that you are debating something that you don't have experience with, but are getting,or "Mis-getting") your information from catalogues, and don't understand what you are reading. or talking about.

As Marth Stewart would say, "... and that's a very bad thing!!"

You're right. That is a very bad thing. It seems you fell into that trap, yourself. You must have been looking at the neck sizing die on Neil's website when you made this comment. The bushings for the FL dies are different. See the pic below.

CatShooter said:
rstreich said:
OTOH, there is no such thing as an "off the rack Redding bump die", hence the need for custom dies.

Hello... a little reality check here.

http://www.redding-reloading.com/pages/bodydies.html

Wake up and get with the program - you are getting in deeper and deeper.

The Redding body die is nothing more than an FL die that doesn't touch the neck. I don't know of any official definition, but when I hear people use "bump die," they are referring to a custom, semi-custom, or modified FL die that provides minimal sizing at key points in the case. You can use an off-the-shelf body die to "bump" the shoulder, but you take what you get for shoulder and web sizing.

CatShooter said:
rstreich said:
A "shoulder bump" is a minimal set back of the shoulder, usually on the order of .001" or so. I haven't seen how the Forster dies work,NO KIDDING!!), but I don't see how you can push the shoulder back without expanding the shoulder diameter also.

You bet you haven't seen the Forster die - cus if you had, you would know that it works like all of the other guys dies work.

On their website they claim that you get a partial neck size and shoulder bump with their die. They don't say anything about sizing the rest of the body. This would make it unique as far as I know. They say it is. I'll take their word for it.

CatShooter said:
"Technically"... he was not correct. Anytime you move or size metal, especially brass, you weaken the crystalline structure. Weakening the brass leads to failure....

Like BR shooting, neither one of us has enough background to debate this subject. However, I've seen BR shooters who do have a strong metallurgy background advocate for minimal FL sizing. Like I said, I haven't seen any empirical evidence of indicating that a little bump every time is better or worse than a greater bump every so often, but the argument in favor of it is convincing, so I decided to give it a try.

So, for bobinpa: Yes, there is a middle of the road approach--minimal FL resizing. You can get a full-blown custom die like a Neil Jones' or Carstensen', a semi-custom like a Harrell's,if you have a PPC or a 6BR), or you can get Carstensen to modify an off-the-shelf FL die for you as described here. You just have to decide whether it's worthwhile or not.

Redding neck sizing bushing on the left, Neil Jones' FL sizing bushing on the right.

6p7ha9h.jpg
 
OK,
Catshooter, glad you had a laugh. You are the one being laughed at right now due to showing your ignorance.


Quote:Outkaste... Badd puppy.

With misleading statements like yours, your gonna live up to your nickname real soon.

---Quote:I don't speak of something I know nothing about. Unlike you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by OutKaste
bobinpa,
The best way to size your brass is to use a FL die with neck and shoulder bump bushing EVERY time.

Quote:
Nonsense. The purpose of a "bump die" is to bump the shoulder back a few thou when the case is tight in the chamber.

---Wrong. You only want to bump it back just enough to chamber.

Quote:
If the case is NOT tight in the chamber, there is NO NEED to bump the shoulder,Duh??).

---Really? I see people asking about this problem all the time. Seems that after so many shots, closing the bolt becomes a problem.

Quote:
The ideal fit for a case in the chamber is 0.0001" clearance all around. More than that is loose space that leads to cases not being chambered the same each time for "perfect" results,for those that are anal compulsive).

---Agree.

Quote:
When the case headspace becomes a negative number,the case head to datum line is longer than the bolt face to chamber datum line), you need to bump the shoulder back THE LEAST AMOUNT POSSIBLE, to provide clearance.

---As stated above.

Quote:
To bump the shoulder every time you load the case is just plain silly, and badd loading technique.

---How so? Waiting until you NEED to bump the shoulder is harder on the brass.


1 - "... is to use a FL die with neck and shoulder bump bushing EVERY time

Quote:
You can NOT bump a neck!

---I never said to bump the neck.

Quote:
There is no such thing as a "shoulder bump bushing".

---Wrong again. The bushing sizes the neck and bumps the shoulder at the same time. The bushing is set with a micrometer top to the desired amount of bump. That is something you will have to figure out to set up the dies properly.

Quote:
You do NOT need to size the body every time you load the case.

---Wrong again. You want the brass consistent. Not getting a little bigger over several shots and then squeezing it down all at one time.

Quote:
Such silliness will invite early fatality of the case, because... when you reduce the diameter of the body, the brass moves,Ta-ta) FORWARDS... causing the case shoulder to hit the chamber shoulder, causing tight chambering.

---Silliness because you were either taught wrong, do not understand or just too stubborn to see things as they really are.
A FL die with a shoulder bump set correct will not allow the above to happen.

Quote:
Is there anything about this "sizing loop" that sounds like you are chasing your tail,or shoulder, so to speak ).

FL dies also size the body diameter - and that is rarely necessary,I have NEVER had a body of a case need sizing for a rifle that it was fired in).

---Just because YOU never had to have it means that NOBODY needs it?

Quote:
Do this with REAL custom dies and not something just called custom.,Those that you can call up and have them shipped right out to you. How can that be custom to YOUR gun?) Custom dies are made to your chamber only.


Quote:
And the "need" for a custom shoulder bump die is WHAT?... exactly??

---Like stated before, to keep the brass as consistently close to chamber dims as possible.

Quote:
The shoulder bump die simply moves the shoulder back a few thou... and it's use is not too much. There is nothing that a custom bump die will do that an off the rack Redding bump die won't do... and no advantage to a custom die,except to the guy that makes it).

---Again. Not a clue. The Redding die is not made to YOUR chamber. Only to SAMMI specs which are wide open.

Quote:
As for over working the brass, you do not have to worry about that as long as the case are sized minimally.

Quote:
FL dies do NOT size the case minimally... they FULL SIZE THE CASE - that's why they are called FL dies.

---Again, you do not understand the terminology. As little as possible all around the case for consistency.

Quote:
If you have a tight chamber, these are the type of dies you want. If you are shooting a factory chambered gun with a large neck, it is possible to over work the brass in the neck area and have them start to crack.

Quote:
Nonsense.
The purpose of a bushing die is to minimally size the neck - if the chamber is SOOOO large that it will cause neck problems, you need to set the barrel back and cut a new chamber,and find a new smith to do the work).

---Some people shoot factory rifles with large chambers. So, if you are blowing the necks out .005-.006” and sizing them that much, they will not last a long time. You can not just size a neck down .003” if it is expanding .006”. You have to take it down to hole the bullet. .006” is over working the brass.

Quote:
"... The better it fits the chamber, the more consistent it will shoot.

Quote:
That's exactly why you DON'T FL size the case every time you load it.

---I’m talking about squeezing the case down .0005-.001”. Nothing more.

Quote:
One last thing, do not fall into the belief of annealing brass. That is one of the most damaging things you can do to your brass.

Quote:
Barf-a-roony. Pure unadulterated BS.

---It’s only bs because you don’t understand it.
I did annealing for a bit and found out that it is a waste of time and effort.
I've been told that you have to anneal when forming brass to a smaller caliber too. Never had a problem not annealing.

I have one set of 500 pcs of match cases that started out as 308, and spent several years in a heavy match rifle, then were sized down to 7mm-08 for a silly-wet rifle, then sized up to 308 again for another match rifle.

I can't count how many times they were annealed, but they have been fired over 20 times each, since 1975... and I haven't lost a single case,actually, I lost a few in the grass, but NOT to case failures!). I anneal cases enuff that I use a 20 pound propane bottle with a torch adapter.

---I have a TC Contender that has a somewhat loose chamber. The necks blow out about .004”. I took one case and fired 35 times, fl resizing and shoulder bumping after every shot, and the only problems so far is having the OAL grow about .007”. I’m not real sure how long the neck will last blowing out this far every time but that piece alone has paid for itself. It was never annealed either.

---Jones has some cases that have several thousand, yes thousand, firing on them from the use of these dies. They have never been annealed and will never need it.

Quote:
I hope this helps. Any questions, let me know.

Quote:
Yeah.. I gots one question - WHERE THE HELL DO YOU GET THIS CRAPOLA???

---From someone who has been doing this for a lot longer than you.
.

Quote:
There are folks that believe that if a BR shooter does it, it MUST be good for all.

---I don’t agree. These type of products are out there for the ‘accuracy minded’. I don’t think that these type of dies are for the average hunter. Unless you are putting a lot of time and money into the sport, it’s not worth it.

Quote:
It is important to remember that Benchrest is NOT completely about accuracy, though accuracy is important.

BR is about the "AG"... and that is accomplished by shooting a group of groups, and averaging them.

The BR shooter,assuming a reasonable rifle) is interested more in wind and mirage, and shooting through the windows in the wind is what brings down the AG.

---I’m sorry? Can you say that again out loud and listen to yourself?
If you do not have an accurate gun, wind doesn’t make a difference.
Now that is a statement worthy of laughter!!!

Quote:
The art of the rifle now exceeds the ability of nearly all outdoor shooters at "point blank" BR ranges. Guns and scopes that could shoot 0.05" and less have been available for some 30 years... and that was a long time before bushing dies.

Go here for an "illuminating" read.

http://www.angelfire.com/ma3/max357/houston.html

So the current challenge for the BR shooter is to watch those pretty sunflower wind gauges and when there is a lull, shoot as many shots through that window as possible, before the conditions change.

In order to do this, the rifle MUST be smooth, so that loading does not move or otherwise upset the rifle, requiring it to be substantially moved to regain alignment.

---And don’t forget ACCURATE.

Quote:
This is why the BR shooter FL sizes the case when loading - so there is absolutely "0" resistance in chambering the case... because what ever 0.0x" in "technical" group size is gained by the case having a tight fit, is lost in the time it take to shoot the group, and it shows up in the "AG".
So it is a trade off - cases that are not as good a fit, in exchange for the speed of shooting in a wind lull - the trade off will almost always result in smaller "AGs"

If BR shooters shoot inside, and there was no time limits, and they were rated only on smallest group,like in the "OLD DAYS"), so that absolute accuracy was the only goal, they would use cases that were a damn tight fit in the chamber.

---Never heard that one before but could be true.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CatShooter
1 - "... is to use a FL die with neck and shoulder bump bushing EVERY time

Quote:
The bushings in Neil's dies are NOT fitted to the shoulder - you are debating about a product that you have no knowledge about.

---Wrong again! You are the one who does not know what you are talking about. Jones’ are the only true custom die that just that. And, it is to YOUR gun ONLY. Not interchangeable with another.
You seem to know an awful lot about Jones’ products yet you have never used them. How does that work?

Quote:
Also, like 'em or not, Forster now has their bushing bump dies.

and I don't understand the "Like 'em or not" remark - I like Forster and use a bunch of their stuff - they have been very cooperative in making "Ultra seaters" that other guys would not make.

But the point of this is that the Forster and the Neil Jones bushing are the same as the Redding bushing dies - same bushings,Forster's are a bit longer), and they are interchangeable.

Neither has bushings that touch the shoulder.

So it do appear that you are debating something that you don't have experience with, but are getting,or "Mis-getting") your information from catalogues, and don't understand what you are reading. or talking about.

As Marth Stewart would say, "... and that's a very bad thing!!"

---What is funny to me is that you act as an authority of something you clearing know little about. Like asked above, where does your experience of his products come from?
Jones’ bushings are not the same as the others. If you had ever dealt with them, which you obviously have not, you would know the difference and understand the way they work.

Quote:
A "shoulder bump" is a minimal set back of the shoulder, usually on the order of .001" or so. I haven't seen how the Forster dies work,NO KIDDING!!), but I don't see how you can push the shoulder back without expanding the shoulder diameter also.

---Because you don’t understand the mechanics of it and have never tried them!

Quote:
You bet you haven't seen the Forster die - cus if you had, you would know that it works like all of the other guys dies work.

I disagree with your disparagement of custom dies, but I don't know of any empirical data to support their use. Personally, I've chosen to be a bit of a sheep in this respect and use what many of the top shooters use, i.e., custom dies.

---The guys out there that use them keep buying more. Find someone who has a set and see what they have to say.

Quote:
$175 for a bump die... is off the wall!!

---I know they’re expensive. But, why spend $2500 on a gun, $1000 on a scope, $.043+ per brass,not counting all the prep time for each case), countless $ on all the other equipment and then only spend a little on one of the most important components? Makes no sense to me what so ever.


He was talking about custom dies in this case, so, technically, he was correct. A custom die, as in a Jones' or Carstensen' die, or a semi-custom like a Harrells' will give you a minimal sizing at key points. The consistency comes from sizing the brass to the same dimensions every time instead of having a cycle where the brass is increasing in dimensions ever so slightly for a number of firings until it gets a much larger sizing down to make it fit again, e.g., using an off-the-shelf FL sizer or body die.

Quote:
"Technically"... he was not correct. Anytime you move or size metal, especially brass, you weaken the crystalline structure. Weakening the brass leads to failure.

Custom dies cannot be made to fit the body properly, because sendng them a few fired cases sounds "Kustom", but in reality, the cases are NOT the size of the chamber, because brass springs back - and it does NOT spring back the same in each case,a bad pun)... taking the same chamber, and firing Lapua, Winchester, and Remington... once fired and five times fired - NONE of the cases will have the same body diameter, because NONE of the cases have the same brass hardness and the same thickness, so they don't have the same spring back - to make a REAL custom die, would require a Cerrosafe chamber cast, and very few guys,including gunsmiths) can do that accurately.

---First, the guys who are shooting BR are not shooting several types of brass. It is the same brand and usually purchased in large lots so that the brass is as close to being the same as possible.
Second, you don't make the die from the chamber. Yo make it according to how the brass is reacting to the chamber.
Actually, making a chamber casting is quite simple if you know what and how to do it.

If you need to have cases that feed flawlessly, like in a BR match, it is worth the price of reduced case life,and $175 dies) to get the loading speed, and get the shots inside the wind or mirage windows... but if you don't need that speed, like in 1,000yd BR or in PD shooting, the tighter the case in the chamber,assuming that you can close it) the better... and the cases will last forever.

Quote:
Outkaste's comments were made up garbage

---The cases will and do last.
Up for a challenge? We can take the same chambering and you do your thing and I’ll do mine and we’ll see what happens.
If you are as knowledgeable as you say, you have nothing to worry about.
Put your money where your mouth is. I just did.
 
I was under the impression that brass must be annealed for long case life, because the heat generated by the constant firing makes the necks brittle and they start splitting if not annealed. Is this true?
 
The last post is extremely true, and they do work harden in time no matter how little they are sized. They harden and your neck tension goes bad, and the accuracy will fall off because of that. I have never seen brass last as long as sometimes stated with out being annealed. I'll still not let mine go over 4 firings before a trip in the Light annealer
and if I wasn't so lazy i would do them every time they were fired.....
 

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