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determing depth of cut for m16 extractor install.

Good luck getting a print from PT&G in a timely manner, or at all. If you do, you'll be one of the "lucky ones". Best bet would be if they have the print on their web site. You don't want to ruin your bolt (who does?!). I'd have both the bolt and the extractor I intended to use IN HAND before I did any cutting. Some things can be run "by the numbers", some can't.
 
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From the looks of the print and the description, Badger likely makes the hook on their standard (308 size) a bit prouder to compensate for the change in diameters. So I'd follow and program for the print that you have. I also think that the cuts internally for the Remington extractor are very likely the same as for the magnum diameter of .625. The standard bolt face also has the ejector hole through the wall of the recess so you'll have to accommodate that as well.
 
Good luck getting a print from PT&G in a timely manner, or at all. If you do, you'll be one of the "lucky ones". Best bet would be if they have the print on their web site. You don't want to ruin your bolt (who does?!). I'd have both the bolt and the extractor I intended to use IN HAND before I did any cutting.
Not sure if this helps
17yatf.jpg
 
The space between the front vertical face of the extractor and the face of the case is 0.011



The 30 degree cut in to the lug a small amount but the 45 even more so, I'm assuming this is what you meant


The 45 cuts into the lug big time. I set them up in a v-block and rotate the bolt untill the 3/16 end mill just hits the edge of lug. Make your cuts then just rotate the v-block to drill the hole.

There is no print available anywhere that I have seen thats comprehensive, you have to reverse engineer from the measurements off the extractor.
 
The 45 cuts into the lug big time. I set them up in a v-block and rotate the bolt untill the 3/16 end mill just hits the edge of lug. Make your cuts then just rotate the v-block to drill the hole.

There is no print available anywhere that I have seen thats comprehensive, you have to reverse engineer from the measurements off the extractor.
That's how I've had to do the couple that I've done, too...worked fine. I've never seen a print for the job until the one posted above.
 
Ya' I've just always measured the parts in hand. I use a "0" size dividing head w/a spud that screws into the 1/2"-13 shroud hole and 'lock it' there with a jam nut. One of those little "spin jig/indexers" would work, too. Or, the "V" block.
 
The 45 cuts into the lug big time. I set them up in a v-block and rotate the bolt untill the 3/16 end mill just hits the edge of lug. Make your cuts then just rotate the v-block to drill the hole.

There is no print available anywhere that I have seen thats comprehensive, you have to reverse engineer from the measurements off the extractor.

If I'm understanding you right. Find center axis of the bolt horizontally and the front face edge. Bring the table over so the bolt is directly under the endmil. Bring the quill down until i touches the bolt and then rotate the bolt. When the lug hits the endmill, lock the bolt down?

Are you using the V block that brownells sells? When I made the switch to mini extractor the 30 degree of set from vertical made it look as if the brass would be flung out and hit the scope. SO I changed the plane to 37 degrees. Wish I had a accurate way to measure my defiance bolt. I do notice they cut the top of the extractor to not let the brass fly up as much.

I was following the rifleshooter article. http://rifleshooter.com/2015/04/badger-m16-style-extractor-installation-on-a-remington-700/
 
Correct. I made my v-block. You need one you can just turn turn 90 degrees in the vise to drill your hole. Gre-tan sells a mini with a cut so it doesnt fling the cases as high.
 
I went and bought badger extractor so I have the part to measure and comparing it to the defiance (other than the defiance being a mini) the claw is considerably deeper.
 

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