Decisions Decisions (What to Buy ? )

[AzMandella]

As I am just getting into Metallic reloading deciding what equipment to buy can get crazy . So I will list what I have bought and what I am thinking of getting and would like any input as to yae or nae . I have done allot of research but would like some input if I am screwing up .

Already Bought
Dillon RL550C Have not opened yet as I want to do Single Stage Loading First .
Hodgden CFE Pistol 2lbs for 380 auto 9mm and 45acp
Accurate 2520 3lbs for 5.56
CCI LPP's 1000
Fed LPP's 2000

Thinking of buying
MEC single stage press
21st Century hand primer
Redding Match Grade 3BR powder measure
Hornady G3-1500 digital scale
Lyman adj trickler
Hornady M1 case tumbler
LE Wilson case guages for respective calibers
Redding Dies for respective calibers

I know there are more to buy in tools but I want to start with the main things .

 

[divingin]

I'm assuming you'll be loading pistol on the 550, and rifle on the single stage. If I'm mistaken, and you are planning on using the 550 for rifle and pistol, you can lose: MEC press (though I find having a single stage press can be handy for one-off tasks), hand primer, Redding measure (though I suppose you could graft that onto the 550), and trickler.

Open the Dillon. You can do single stage loading on it (with auto-eject no less) by leaving all die stations but one empty. Insert the brass at the normal spot, let it eject at the last, but do a single operation on it as it moves through the stations.

You can get by just fine (some, including me, say better) by losing the case gauges and using your chambers to gauge ammo, since, ultimately, the ammo has to fit in the firearm. There have been instances where ammo that gauged OK still didn't fit.

Add a gauge to measure shoulder bump and case base to ogive for rifle. Hornady has them (not great, but they work.) Add a trimmer for rifle brass. You will need them.

For those 3 pistol calibers, look into separate taper crimp dies (I don't know what Redding uses on their seaters, but applying a separate taper crimp causes less distortion of the bullet.)

Other than that, I'd say your plan looks OK.

 

[PigButtons]

Just pointing out the obvious:
SPP for 380 and 9mm
SRP for .223

 

[AzMandella]

Just pointing out the obvious:
SPP for 380 and 9mm
SRP for .223

Ahh yes I forgot to list those . But I'm avidly looking every hour or so . As long as I am awake . LOL

 

[AzMandella]

I'm assuming you'll be loading pistol on the 550, and rifle on the single stage. If I'm mistaken, and you are planning on using the 550 for rifle and pistol, you can lose: MEC press (though I find having a single stage press can be handy for one-off tasks), hand primer, Redding measure (though I suppose you could graft that onto the 550), and trickler.

Open the Dillon. You can do single stage loading on it (with auto-eject no less) by leaving all die stations but one empty. Insert the brass at the normal spot, let it eject at the last, but do a single operation on it as it moves through the stations.

You can get by just fine (some, including me, say better) by losing the case gauges and using your chambers to gauge ammo, since, ultimately, the ammo has to fit in the firearm. There have been instances where ammo that gauged OK still didn't fit.

Add a gauge to measure shoulder bump and case base to ogive for rifle. Hornady has them (not great, but they work.) Add a trimmer for rifle brass. You will need them.

For those 3 pistol calibers, look into separate taper crimp dies (I don't know what Redding uses on their seaters, but applying a separate taper crimp causes less distortion of the bullet.)

Other than that, I'd say your plan looks OK.

Yes pistol on the 550 . But will probably use it also for 5.56 varmint rounds . But want to do match grade ammo with the Single stage working on charge and bullet weight combinations . the RL550C already has a dedicated powder measure . The Redding will be for doing match grade ammo .

And yes case trimmer , leaning toward the LE Wilson , headspace guages and ogive guages are on the list I just did not list them . I was mainly listing main items for discussion .

Redding has dies that seat and crimp in one . These are the ones I have been looking at . It frees up a station so I can use a powder check die .

Redding NxGen Premium Handgun 45 ACP Neck Sizing, Expanding, Bullet

The Redding Premium Handgun 3 die sets feature a Titanium Carbide-sizing die and an expander die containing the unique Redding expander plug now coated...

www.midwayusa.com

 

[divingin]

I use a Wilson trimmer for my precision stuff. I also have the WFT's for most rifle calibers that I load bulk ammo for. IMO the WFT is much faster and more convenient, and you don't give up much performance-wise.

Just about every pistol seater will crimp (usually a roll crimp.) The question is whether they roll or taper crimp. Since rimless auto pistol calibers headspace on the case mouth, a roll crimp is not the preferred method (also, roll crimps are very sensitive to case length - too long and they over-crimp, too short and they crimp less or not at all.) And, since the crimp is applied as the case rises into the die, that means a combo seater is crimping while still seating the bullet. Which is why I suggest going with a separate taper crimp. If the seater has a taper crimp, I'd just live with that (even though I still think it's less than ideal.)

If you don't shoot fast (action shooting, for example), a squib load isn't a big deal. It's a big deal when you don't take the time to make sure it's safe before firing another shot (like when on a timer, trying to beat the guy in front of you on the leaderboard.) Get in the habit of checking for barrel obstruction with a misfire (which you should do in any case, but many don't.) Watch the ejected misfire: If the bullet is still there, no problem. If it isn't, check the bore (easiest way is to put your thumb against the breech and hold the barrel towards a light or put a flashlight [cell phone has one] on the muzzle. Look for light on your thumbnail. Don't see light? Put a rod down it and make sure it goes through.)

 

[PigButtons]

You're going to need primer pocket cleaning and uniforming tools for at least the rifle cases and if you reload military brass a Dillion pocket swagger.

 

[AzMandella]

I use a Wilson trimmer for my precision stuff. I also have the WFT's for most rifle calibers that I load bulk ammo for. IMO the WFT is much faster and more convenient, and you don't give up much performance-wise.

Just about every pistol seater will crimp (usually a roll crimp.) The question is whether they roll or taper crimp. Since rimless auto pistol calibers headspace on the case mouth, a roll crimp is not the preferred method (also, roll crimps are very sensitive to case length - too long and they over-crimp, too short and they crimp less or not at all.) And, since the crimp is applied as the case rises into the die, that means a combo seater is crimping while still seating the bullet. Which is why I suggest going with a separate taper crimp. If the seater has a taper crimp, I'd just live with that (even though I still think it's less than ideal.)

If you don't shoot fast (action shooting, for example), a squib load isn't a big deal. It's a big deal when you don't take the time to make sure it's safe before firing another shot (like when on a timer, trying to beat the guy in front of you on the leaderboard.) Get in the habit of checking for barrel obstruction with a misfire (which you should do in any case, but many don't.) Watch the ejected misfire: If the bullet is still there, no problem. If it isn't, check the bore (easiest way is to put your thumb against the breech and hold the barrel towards a light or put a flashlight [cell phone has one] on the muzzle. Look for light on your thumbnail. Don't see light? Put a rod down it and make sure it goes through.)

Yes the Redding dies use a taper crimp on the seater/crimp dies for calibers that headspace off the case neck .

 

[old codger]

Instead of a single stage press I would recommend a turret model.

 

[divingin]

Instead of a single stage press I would recommend a turret model.

Any reason since he already has a progressive?

 

[AzMandella]

You're going to need primer pocket cleaning and uniforming tools for at least the rifle cases and if you reload military brass a Dillion pocket swagger.

Yes thank you . I was planning on buying a swaging tool for the Single Stage . There is also a company named Swageit that makes swagers for the Dillon presses .

 

[Dub]

Any reason since he already has a progressive?

A turret press allows you to single load for multiple calibers without resetting and checking your dies every caliber change. Nothing like a progressive.

 

[Jager]

Serviceable ammo can be made in lots of ways, and with lots of different tools.

The first caution I'd raise is concentrating on tools, rather than knowledge. The tool(s) you use almost don't matter... until they do. When they start to matter, you'll know it.

I'd recommend a good all-around book on metallic reloading - McPherson's "Metallic Cartridge Handloading"(https://www.amazon.com/Metallic-Car...c+cartridge+handloading&qid=1632338671&sr=8-1) is a good one. And a load manual or two.

Beyond that, I'd suggest selecting one caliber - 5.56 probably being the best, among your choices - and working exclusively with that for awhile.

Welcome to the other half of shooting!

 

[AzMandella]

Serviceable ammo can be made in lots of ways, and with lots of different tools.

The first caution I'd raise is concentrating on tools, rather than knowledge. The tool(s) you use almost don't matter... until they do. When they start to matter, you'll know it.

I'd recommend a good all-around book on metallic reloading - McPherson's "Metallic Cartridge Handloading"(https://www.amazon.com/Metallic-Cartridge-Handloading-Pursuit-Perfect/dp/1571573712/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=McPherson's+metallic+cartridge+handloading&qid=1632338671&sr=8-1) is a good one. And a load manual or two.

Beyond that, I'd suggest selecting one caliber - 5.56 probably being the best, among your choices - and working exclusively with that for awhile.

Welcome to the other half of shooting!

I have been concentrating on knowledge . I have already bought the Lyman 50th edition and Hornady 11th edition . Have read all of both except not every data page . But even with all the knowledge in the world will do no good tools . And with tools I can take what knowledge I have and increase it with practical application and practice .
I actually have been reading and following Ultimate Reloader for years . Just wish I would have pulled the trigger 3yrs ago when there were not all the shortages .

 

[NZ_Fclass]

There's no reason not to load precision ammo on the 550. When I took up FTR, I looked at selling my 550b and getting a top end single stage press - maybe a Co-ax to use alongside an ancient Rockchucker. As there were none in the country at the time, I tried the Dillon. After careful measurement, I soon realised that the Dillon used as a"turret" press, and not a progressive - i.e. one round at a time, is more than capable. I don't use the powder measure, but use the powder die to pour via a funnel, after weighing, so 4 dies on the toolhead - FL size, expander mandrel, powder and seating. I prime on the press using the Dillon primer feed for small rifle primers. LR, I do off the Dillon.

By using a shell plate that has 4 different sized apertures, I can load 308 Palma brass, 6Br, 6BRX, 6SLR , 223, 222 and 6.5 Grendel, without changing the plate. Dies are kept in toolheads, ready to go.

I prefer the workflow on the Dillon. After prepping the brass, I can load one complete round.Then another, and so on. I can stop for coffee, leave the press set up, then go back and load some more complete rounds. Not leave a tray of cases half finished.

My next major purchase will be an Auto trickler, or similar...I wonder if a competitor will appear?

 

[Tommie]

The first caution I'd raise is concentrating on tools, rather than knowledge. The tool(s) you use almost don't matter... until they do. When they start to matter, you'll know it.

Indeed!

 

[ronemus]

The best purchase to make when reloading for accuracy is Precision Shooting's Reloading guide; this is a tutorial, not a data book, and gives you all the details on how to do it right. Unfortunately, it's out of print so you'll have to find a used copy. It covers a variety of disciplines, and discusses the processes appropriate to each. The "How To" sections in reloading manuals are mainstream and don't have much for precision reloading. Get together with an experienced reloader and have him show you the ropes; many steps are done by feel and others are better demonstrated than described.

 

[Jfred-in-Texas]

As I am just getting into Metallic reloading deciding what equipment to buy can get crazy . So I will list what I have bought and what I am thinking of getting and would like any input as to yae or nae . I have done allot of research but would like some input if I am screwing up .

Already Bought
Dillon RL550C Have not opened yet as I want to do Single Stage Loading First .
Hodgden CFE Pistol 2lbs for 380 auto 9mm and 45acp
Accurate 2520 3lbs for 5.56
CCI LPP's 1000
Fed LPP's 2000

Thinking of buying
MEC single stage press
21st Century hand primer
Redding Match Grade 3BR powder measure
Hornady G3-1500 digital scale
Lyman adj trickler
Hornady M1 case tumbler
LE Wilson case guages for respective calibers
Redding Dies for respective calibers

I know there are more to buy in tools but I want to start with the main things .

I got a 550C in March and paid for 9mm, .45, and .223 dies and caliber change kits at same time. At that time, expected wait for dies was 8 months. All caliber conversion kits arrived in April. Now, revised due date for dies is pushed out to 12 months. I started buying Lee dies back in April, so I have been loading since then. All Lee dies have produced some fine cartridges on the 550. The 4 die sets are great and they are about 1/3 the price of Dillon. I would not have been able to load for the last 7 months if not for the Lee dies. When the Dillons show up, I'll have a nice inventory of dies.

 

[AzMandella]

I got a 550C in March and paid for 9mm, .45, and .223 dies and caliber change kits at same time. At that time, expected wait for dies was 8 months. All caliber conversion kits arrived in April. Now, revised due date for dies is pushed out to 12 months. I started buying Lee dies back in April, so I have been loading since then. All Lee dies have produced some fine cartridges on the 550. The 4 die sets are great and they are about 1/3 the price of Dillon. I would not have been able to load for the last 7 months if not for the Lee dies. When the Dillons show up, I'll have a nice inventory of dies.

That's why I bought it first . I was seeing their inventory deplete and 8 month waiting time . On the 750 . Now they are out of 550c's .

 

[Oso]

Let's roll back a couple of steps before you start loading up on gear you need to look at entire process:
1) Cleaning your brass
2) Case Preparation
3) Reloading cartridges
I have added links below for some suggestions on gear for your initial purchase.... a balance of quality and price. There are plenty of options for any specific piece of equipment. Pick the brand/type that you like best and buy it from whatever vendor has the best price.

Cleaning Brass:
Wet Tumbling with Steel Pins is the way to go.
Franklin Arsenal Tumbler

Case Preparation:
You are going to need a few different types of tools:
1) Measuring Tools:
a) Digital Calipers - measure case dimensions, OAL, CBTO, etc
Anvil Base for Caliper

b) OAL Gage - used to determine seating of bullet in your rifle's chamber
Hornady OAL Gage
Modified Case for OAL

c) HeadSpace/Shoulder Bump Gage - used to determine from fired case and then set up the resizing die in reloading press to get correct amount of shoulder bump/resizing of the cases
Hornady Headspace Gage Set
Sinclair Bullet & Bump Gage Tool Body
Sinclair Bump Gage Inserts

d) Bullet Comparator Gage - used to measure the seating depth of bullets for setting up the Bullet Seating Die
Hornady Bullet Comparator Set
Sinclair Bullet & Bump Gage Tool Body
Sinclair Bullet Comparator Inserts

2) Case Trimming & Chamfer Tools:
Case Trim & Chamfer by F-Class John

a) Case Length Trimmer - these types of tools use an endmill cutter and only reduce the length of the case. There are a number of different options, but best to get an economic unit that provides ability to use on multiple size cartridges. You can always upgrade later to a dedicate caliber trimmer.
Lyman Case Trimmer

b) Chamfer Tool - you need to chamfer case mouth to more easily seat bullets. For a starter this is reasonably priced and a good quality tool.
K&M Chamfer tools
Outside Chamfer Tool

c) Primer Pocket Uniform Tool - I would go with something that I could attach to a drill
Primer Pocket Gage
K&M Primer Pocket Uniform Tool
Sinclair Primer Pocket Tool

d) Case Gage - Final Test to confirm case is within spec and also can be used to re-confirm that loaded cartridge is within tolerances. Buy one for every caliber you reload.
Wilson Case Gage

e) Flash Hole Debur Tool
Sinclair Flash Hole Deburring Tool

3) Reloading
a) Single Stage Press - I have used Rockchucker for +20 years and it is solid. I also have a MEC Marksman and it is great. I prefer it over the Rockchucker.

b) Progressive Press - need to understand each step of reloading and properly set up your dies... things go wrong fast on a progressive. With extra stations you may consider layout of process/steps.

c) Hand Priming Tool
Franklin Arsenal Hand Priming Tool

d) Reloading Dies - Progressive Press may require/prefer different Dies and Accessories that are better suited for additional strain and speed as compared to a single stage press.
Universal Decap Die for Progressive Press