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Decided to build my 1st custom. Advice?

Evan

Hi everyone! I've decided that I want to take the plunge and commission my first custom rifle and was hoping for some advice! Almost everyone learns something important with a big purchase like this. Little things that they wish they had done, mistakes or happy accidents that came from their build. I'd really appreciate any wisdom you can share!

Backstory: I bought a RPR in 6.5 creedmoor, got super lucky, and won the factory gun lottery; it's very accurate.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/how-to-train-advise-me-on-how-to-get-better-faster.3954107/
But in the process I discovered that I don't much care for walking to distant targets and have been having a blast shooting at ~300yards. Well I don't much need to be shooting anything near as heavy duty as a 6.5 creedmoor for that (which I view as a 1300yrd round) This spawned this idea:
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/221-fireball-and-69gn-class-of-bullets.3956949/
A 221 fireball shooting very affordable 69gn class of match bullets! Minimal powder, less noise and recoil and cost, and really attractive ballistics to my eye. I like working with the wind, but I want to clearly see my bullet holes to judge the next shots because I largely shoot alone. I think the 300-400 yard range is what the middle-high end scopes can clearly resolve in most conditions (Vortex GE and similar) and it is the most comfortable distance I've found for shooting at my favorite spot. The wind pushes things around, but groups remain under 2inches, so the target I carry out can be reasonably small and still have a lot of dots (less trips to the target), etc.

How important is it to choose a gunsmith near you? I'm in Colorado, a bit north of Denver and the only big-name gunsmith I know of in Colorado is Greg Tannel. I'd be happy to work with him, and I could go visit him in person, but it also seems like he is a very busy guy. Suggestions?

Here's what I'm interested in building:
  • BAT S, RB, DP, 1.4 Octagon with integral lug and 20MOA picatinny rail.
  • 1:9 twist 22 barrel finished at perhaps 30" with a MTU or similar contour. No real brand preference (gunsmiths's choice?) 221 Fireball throated for dummy rounds I'll make.
  • Jewell or Bix'n'Andy (gunsmith's choice?) set somewhere sub 6oz.
  • I'll fit and finish my own stock. I enjoy working with wood, and strongly prefer it for guns, so it'll be a lovely piece of hardwood or a laminate if I decide the hardwood is too expensive. I'm thinking of something pretty traditional in shape. It will likely wear a bipod and be used with a rear bag although I've been considering moving to a rest and more benchrest style stock.
 
Couple of comments, YMMV.

Trigger, good choice.
Stock, personal preference, wide forearm, wood or laminate? Install pillars and bed.
Bipod? Not conducive to maximum accuracy.
Consider a Stiller, Pierce or Kelbly for an action, BAT is overkill. 20 MOA rail, non starter, waste of money.
The 221 Fireball is optimized for a 40 to 50 gr bullet, tack driver with 14 twist and those bullets
69s MV will be less than 2000fps, a real slug.
If you want to shoot 69s, consider fast twist .223, 22-250, 22BR or similar.

My 2¢: The .221 FB is a great round when utilized within its limitations. Trying to make it something it wasn't designed for may be an expensive and frustrating experience.
 
I was thinking 6x45 aka 6mm223.
Spits out 70gr pills at over 3000 fps.
Simple wildcat 223 brass necked up to 6mm.
Load up to 100gr still clocking 2500 range.
Meets the easy on powder requirement.
Bullets aren't to bad either cost wise.
Pluss you'll be able to see hits easier than a .22 caliber.
Other wise I second the 6br
 
The shorter actions may lack a little ignition in a BR rifle, but it will be fine in a hunting rifle. The target tangs require a different shaped stock, so if you want to start with a blank, it will be designed for a rem tang and the target tang will not fit properly. Unless you leave the tang exposed which looks terrible. If your making it from scratch it wont matter. If you want to work with Greg Tannel, do it. He is busy for a reason, right?
 
hogpatrol said:
The 221 Fireball is optimized for a 40 to 50 gr bullet, tack driver with 14 twist and those bullets
69s MV will be less than 2000fps, a real slug.
If you want to shoot 69s, consider fast twist .223, 22-250, 22BR or similar.

My 2¢: The .221 FB is a great round when utilized within its limitations. Trying to make it something it wasn't designed for may be an expensive and frustrating experience.
Click to expand...

I found 222 data where a guy got 2800fps with 69s. Given that a 221 rifle seems to lag the 222 by 150fps or so, I figured I might be able to reach 2650 or thereabouts with a longer barrel. Found some quick load data that suggested it would happen at maybe 50ksi. The drop at this speed at 300 matches the creedmoor around 450yds, but with a couple inches more drift which seems like a sweet spot to be given that I like the consistent performance I get from the 6.5 all the way out to 600.

I'm drawn to the idea of something that doesn't have the bark that the 6.5 creedmoor or my 22-250 have. Seems the best way to do that is with less powder. A 6BR would be the fastest route to a tackdriver, but all the components are more expensive and it doesn't address the bark. I'm concerned about minimizing my hearing damage, given the frequency that I go shooting. Small losses will add up if I'm shooting 2600 or more rounds a year for the next several decades.

Alex Wheeler said:
The shorter actions may lack a little ignition in a BR rifle, but it will be fine in a hunting rifle. The target tangs require a different shaped stock, so if you want to start with a blank, it will be designed for a rem tang and the target tang will not fit properly. Unless you leave the tang exposed which looks terrible. If your making it from scratch it wont matter. If you want to work with Greg Tannel, do it. He is busy for a reason, right?
Click to expand...

Ignition? Due to the shorter firing assembly?

I'd start with a blank and inlet it myself. Make some pillars on the lathe at work to support the action. I've made 2 stocks before and really enjoyed it both times!
 
Is this a rough shaped blank or a chunk of wood? A rem tang type action sits on top of the stock, the br tangs sit inside the stock. Requires a very different shaped stock.
 
It's really hard for me to get excited about the rem clones. They are all boring actions that look like remmys. I'm much more attracted to the BATs and things like the old SS Vipers. The American rifle co Nucleus caught my eye, but that's more of a field action.
 
Alex Wheeler said:
Is this a rough shaped blank or a chunk of wood? A rem tang type action sits on top of the stock, the br tangs sit inside the stock. Requires a very different shaped stock.
Click to expand...

They were very rough shaped with no inlet or barrel channel. I used a Dremel and chisels to open them up and glass bed the mausers in.
 
do your research and find a top of the line gunsmith that builds the kind of rifle you are interested in. listen to him. be patient. you can't rush an artisan. just forget about the rifle until it is done. find you a used rifle in the classifieds to play with until yours is done.
 
I've been told that I'm not overburdened by diplomacy so don't be too offended.

BAT Action - Good choice as it will retain most of it's value when you part the thing out. I'd go with a round model B. The multi-flats don't sell as easily and there's less of a market for an S. I'd skip the rail and the integral lug. For another $500 IIRC you can get another bolt with a PPC/BR boltface.

Barrel - Either and MTU or LV. You'll need the long shank when you start setting it back and rechambering with different reamers.

Trigger - Doesn't matter much. Both are easily sold.

Stock - Sure, why not. It's just a piece of wood.

You didn't mention where the reamer would come from and with the rest of your program it's probably where you should start. Build some dummy rounds and send them to Dave Kiff. He'll grind you a reamer - nothing fancy - fixed pilot will do. While you're waiting scrounge up a used Savage varmint model. Doesn't have to be in great shape. Send the reamer to McGowen and have them chamber a barrel. Screw it onto the Savage and shoot 69 SMK's out of a Fireball for a while before you invest several thousand dollars.

Good hearing protection is cheap. The cost of components is minimal compared to what you're looking at spending on a custom gun. Get the Fireball/heavy bullet thing out of your system before it's costs you a lot of money to be disappointed.
 
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