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Dasher and annealing?

I've been fire-forming 6mmBRX from standard 6mmbr brass..The Lapua stuff is not cheap & I hate seeing split shoulders..So I'm trying to be nice to my brass..I anneal before & after fire-forming. After that the experts [some say] every firing..I try to do the annealling after every two or three re-loadings..I hope that helps..one tip..If you see lots of carbon on the neck..The brass is too hard to seal the chamber..excess length can contribute to that dirty sooty neck condition..Try not to let that happen..I hope that helps you... Mike n Ct
 
I'm not a high volume shooter anymore, but I anneal my Lapua Dasher brass every third bang. I don't keep track of the cycles but some must have a dozen firings and so far I have not lost any to splits or loose pockets. Not sure if it's right but that's what I do. Barlow
 
If you use an arbor press with force measurement option then you will learn seating variences can be really reduced by annealing after each firing. If your into maintenence and reducing split necks then every 5 firings should extend brass life. Things to consider when annealing every 5 firings and I have shared this with people I do barrel work for, is the FL die will need re adjust after annealing because the softer shoulder bumps back more readily after annealing, as it is softer than the 4th firing unannealed.
 
I have shared this with people I do barrel work for, is the FL die will need re adjust after annealing because the softer shoulder bumps back more readily after annealing, as it is softer than the 4th firing unannealed.

Rodger that! The opposite is one of the signs I use to tell if I'm over due to anneal. If after a few firings the FL sizing bump doesn't move the shoulder without adjusting a fair bit, it's time to anneal. It also seems that two or three out of 50 tend to get hard(won't bump) way sooner than the rest.
 
Question on split necks in 6Dasher:
From Lapua brass, besides for when fire-forming, who has had split necks after the initial forming cycles?

Reason asking, I am not one to anneal, have always neck-turned to .0105" or less, have been shooting 6Dasher's since 2004 (+20,000 rounds), commonly cycle them 10 to 20 firings (with some test brass with +50 cycles), run +.003" of neck clearance, and I have only 1 time had a case neck split (13th cycle).
In all this time, have had several blown primer pockets (when pushing the limits), had a couple head separations, and a couple that shoulder split, but only the 1 split neck.

With that all said, myself see split necks as a none issue in 6Dasher's.
Donovan
 
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I guess the reason for me asking about annealing is. Last Tuesday the 4th I was working on some loads using light bullets. Some of brass had 3 firings and some had 5 firings on them. All the sudden I had lousy standard deviations 1-10 shot string was 28.8 1-10 shot string was 48.9. I was loading 8208 a 65 gr vmax with a cci-450. I've had several 10 shot strings of 2.4 with 8208 and a cci-450. I don't know why all the sudden I had the big sd strings. So far I don't have any problems with bumping the shoulders back .002 when I fl size my brass.
 
Question on split necks in 6Dasher:
From Lapua brass, besides for when fire-forming, who has had split necks after the initial forming cycles?

Reason asking, I am not one to anneal, have always neck-turned to .0105" or less, have been shooting 6Dasher's since 2004 (+20,000 rounds), commonly cycle them 10 to 20 firings (with some test brass with +50 cycles), run +.003" of neck clearance, and I have only 1 time had a case neck split (13th cycle).
In all this time, have had several blown primer pockets (when pushing the limits), had a couple head separations, and a couple that shoulder split, but only the 1 split neck.

With that all said, myself see split necks as a none issue in 6Dasher's.
Donovan
I've never had a case neck split with Dasher but not fired 20,000 either. I don't turn them for tight-neck any longer. I learned better after my first Dasher build in around 2004. Now I shoot no-turn chambers with a very light turn (.012) on the necks.
Since the introduction of blue box I have had several (more than a dozen) shoulders crack after a couple of firings.
I anneal after every two firings but don't do it to keep from splitting necks. I do it to control neck tension and shoulder movement (I won't say bump for fear it will bring on fguffey).
 
You don't want to confuse a split shoulder do to a fold you find in some of the new Lapua brass to fatigue two different issues... Jim
 
Rodger that! The opposite is one of the signs I use to tell if I'm over due to anneal. If after a few firings the FL sizing bump doesn't move the shoulder without adjusting a fair bit, it's time to anneal. It also seems that two or three out of 50 tend to get hard(won't bump) way sooner than the rest.


My thoughts are, once you have set your die to resize your annealed brass properly, you should never have to change the setting on the die again with that chamber to make that brass fit properly. If the brass doesn't "bump" back exactly to where you have your die set for your chamber, then is when I would anneal the brass before sizing to soften up the shoulder to allow the consistent bump required by your die setting and chamber fit.

Thus, your brass fitting properly and consistently in your chamber will tell you when to anneal.

Just my .02¢
DJ

DJ's Brass Service
205-461-4680
 
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