Cutting Cheekpiece Off HS Precision Stock

[Twdmar]

I am looking for a little insight in cutting off the cheekpiece on a factory savage HS stock to put in adjustable cheek elevator hardware.
I am thinking a carbide bandsaw blade with the sled is use for cutting cheekpieces off wood stocks but I'm open to suggestions.
Filling the stock is no problem but I'd take any reccomendations on blades or backing the stock to improve the cut. I have an idea about backing the stock with a piece of wood and polyester filler to take up the gap to prevent any splintering or cracking.

 

[Eagle Six]

I'm not familiar with the H-S Savage stock. I am familiar with the H-S stock that came on the Remington 700 Police. If they are the same, making a clean cut as can be done with wood I think is a bit risky. The surface is bridle and wants to flake when cut. I would use the finest tooth I could get my hands on, tape the cut line well and proceed slow and easy.

I cut the forearm off mine about 1.5" with a fine tooth hack saw blade and it went pretty good. I installed two quick detach sling swivel female cups of the type that screw in and I had trouble with flaking caused by the drill. The small pilot holes worked well but as I kept increasing size to get to the final hole size I need for the cups I got a little flaking. What really cause flaking was when I use the tap to thread the holes. I'm sure some of that could have be caused by my technique. Also, I wasn't concerned with the flaking.

If you were more patient than I (almost everyone is because patience certainly isn't one of my strength) you could do a descent. Good Luck with your project and hope you will post how it goes and maybe some photos.

 

[LVLAaron]

Which stock, exactly? I have an H&S - The shell is thin and filled with something like dense foam. I wouldn't wish cutting that and installing riser hardware on my worst enemy. It's not as elegant but I'd consider a kydex riser that you just need two holes for.

 

[Eagle Six]

Which stock, exactly? I have an H&S - The shell is thin and filled with something like dense foam. I wouldn't wish cutting that and installing riser hardware on my worst enemy. It's not as elegant but I'd consider a kydex riser that you just need two holes for.

In addition to the dense foam, part of my stock near the comb area is hollow. If you cut a chuck off the top you may have access to fill in the hollow area, but I think it is still risky as to what you use as fill and will the foam and the fill have some adverse reaction to each other.

 

[Twdmar]

I'm not familiar with the H-S Savage stock. I am familiar with the H-S stock that came on the Remington 700 Police. If they are the same, making a clean cut as can be done with wood I think is a bit risky. The surface is bridle and wants to flake when cut. I would use the finest tooth I could get my hands on, tape the cut line well and proceed slow and easy.

I cut the forearm off mine about 1.5" with a fine tooth hack saw blade and it went pretty good. I installed two quick detach sling swivel female cups of the type that screw in and I had trouble with flaking caused by the drill. The small pilot holes worked well but as I kept increasing size to get to the final hole size I need for the cups I got a little flaking. What really cause flaking was when I use the tap to thread the holes. I'm sure some of that could have be caused by my technique. Also, I wasn't concerned with the flaking.

If you were more patient than I (almost everyone is because patience certainly isn't one of my strength) you could do a descent. Good Luck with your project and hope you will post how it goes and maybe some photos.

I was thinking of taking autobody filler and basically gluing a couple pieces of wood to the outside after covering the stock with masking tape to prevent tear out.

Which stock, exactly? I have an H&S - The shell is thin and filled with something like dense foam. I wouldn't wish cutting that and installing riser hardware on my worst enemy. It's not as elegant but I'd consider a kydex riser that you just need two holes for.

I would probably make a wooden plug and fill the inside with it first before cutting so it was supported.

This one has me a little puzzled. Wood would be no problem. I could almost build a complete stock faster. If my mill was running, I'd maybe consider a slotting saw and water to keep it cool.

 

[LVLAaron]

You don't need carbide saws or water. It'll cut like butter with any sharp tool you have.

 

[SKWERLZ]

You don't need carbide saws or water. It'll cut like butter with any sharp tool you have.

^^^^this.
Tape across the cut and go to town with a less aggressive saw
Carbide is generally not sharp and not a great choice.

 

[rickiesrevenge]

My advice is don't do it. Pretty easy to sand through the actual fiberglass shell on the HS stocks I've messed with. Its thin. But that was on XP-100 pistol stocks. Yours may be thicker.

 

[majohnson]

The rule is to have at least 4 teeth in the cut at all time.

 

[Trevor60]

Three is a similar project on a grayboe renegade over on snipershide. i am not sure linking is allowed

the title is "KMW Loggerhead and Grayboe Stock Modification" (posted by ESBVader July 7 2018)
here is his step 1 he also talks about filling in with epoxy... lots of pics

Step 1: Pucker up!
Mark out where you want your cuts to be on the stock. I used a pencil with a ruler and then painters tape to mark out the cut lines. I went a bit further and actually taped some milling vice parallels along the taped lines so that the saw would have a solid guide to cut along. In other pics, I have seen where the saw would "wander" and create crooked lines. I didn't want that. Metal rulers, scrap metal, etc. would all work fine as well. I picked up a dovetailing saw as well as a coping saw from the hardware store that I used to cut the stock. The resin stock cuts fairly easily (WARNING: too easily if you are aggressive. Take your time).

Trevor