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current thinking: expander ball vs expander mandrel

flexible

Silver $$ Contributor
Hi everyone, flexible here. Starting to set up my T7 turret with dies for a new rifle.
Previously I took the decapping pin and expander ball out of the sizing die and used an expander mandrel.
Is that still the best of current thinking?
thanks
 
Is that still the best of current thinking?
Depends. How much work is your expander ball having to do? Or another way to ask this, is how much under-size does your reduce the neck under the desired dimension?

Even when lubing the inside of the case neck, using a carbide expander, and setting the expander high so it passes through the case neck just as it leaves the neck portion of the sizing die, I found if the expander has to increase the neck by 0.002" or more it WILL pull the case neck and increase TIR.
 
I use expander balls in my F/L standard RCBS dies but I am not advocating that this is in anyway superior to mandrels especially if you are seeking ultimate accuracy such as in the benchrest or F Class shooting disciplines. I use them because I want to keep the reloading process as efficient (short but effective) as possible with the least of amount of equipment.

If you want to use them, I can share some tips that I found aid in obtaining sufficiently accurate reloads for my purposes which is about 1/2 to 5/8" moa for varmint and predator hunting. Here are some things I do which I believe make using expander balls more effective.

1. I brush out the necks with a stiff nylon brush using a low RMP drill to remove excess carbon on the inside of the necks.

2. I polish the expander ball with very fine grit emery cloth to produce a mirror like finish which reduces drag of the neck. This only needs to be done once.

3. I de-prime cases with a de-priming die. I set my expander assembly higher in the die (but not in the neck sizing area) which I found minimizes neck distortion and also reduces felt drag.

4. I have a set of expander ball assemblies, sized in .001" increment that I can interchange depending the rifle / brand of cases that reduces drag on the neck. This is a similar concept to the set of different Whidden Gun Works sizing buttons. This is the K22 adaptation. :rolleyes:

I found that consistent neck tension rather than some absolute number is more important in maintaining consistency in my reloads. I stopped measuring run out many years ago since I never could associate it with results of target perhaps because I am not shooting benchrest level accuracy.
 
expander ball could introduce runout, if you're looking for accuracy I'd clean up or turn necks and use a bushing to size necks after testing neck tension on paper
Are you in the camp that the bullet is the mandrel?
I am.
I'm in total agreement with bushing die and proper interference.
I was turning my Peterson brass for neck clearance in chamber, it had to be done.
Zack sent me 2 boxes of Lapua with specific instructions.
"Don't fuk with it!" I followed his instructions and my clearance issue solved.
 
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Bc'z.....Yes but neck prep must be perfect in order to get uniform and consistent neck tension and bullet release, I let the carbon build up inside my necks for lubrication and sort my seated rounds on AMP press so I shoot my sighters and score rounds with almost identical neck tension
 
Depends. How much work is your expander ball having to do? Or another way to ask this, is how much under-size does your reduce the neck under the desired dimension?

Even when lubing the inside of the case neck, using a carbide expander, and setting the expander high so it passes through the case neck just as it leaves the neck portion of the sizing die, I found if the expander has to increase the neck by 0.002" or more it WILL pull the case neck and increase TIR.
thanks everyone, I'll stick with my current setup. I wonder why the die manufacturers put the expander into their sizing dies
 
thanks everyone, I'll stick with my current setup. I wonder why the die manufacturers put the expander into their sizing dies
They put he expander button in so as to decap, size your brass in 1 motion for your average reloaded, this worked great for me 26 years ago when I began rolling my own, but as I evolved as a shooter looking for the smallest groups and Precision from my rifles, my gear evolved with me.
 
Most of my loading is a gutted FL sizing die, than a -0.002 mandrel just before loading. Currently I'm messing with finding a good "generic" 223 AR load with the Hornady 2266 bullet(55 gr btsp) a decent cheap bullet. Using FC range brass, H335, ARM primer, 2.220 coal (all brass sized same) 3 different rifles have been pretty consistent sub 1 inch 5 shot groups at 100 yards. Using the die/mandrel method. I do run them thru a Lee fcd (light) for AR use. Going to try the same load thru a couple bolt guns when the range dries up.
 
You guys can use all bushing dies you want! get rid of the expander ball and use a LEE Collet die! simple and easy, you can get the proper size Mandrel from LEE for your needs if you don't like the 1 that came with it, I turn my necks to my needs first with new brass and the size only with a body die and then the LCD, I get very precise cases less than 1k runout and the neck tension I want, my accuracy tells all the story I need to see YMMV
 
Agree, but, that is exactly what is part of working up a load. Especially for a given firearm, rifle or handgun.
not really, what I or anyone else thinks is irrelevant, you test and let the paper tell you what your barrel likes......paper doesn't lie
 
I know little. But I try to read a lot and make a decision by what others have found.
Mandrel or bushing, I think the key is the neck turning. An even wall thickness.
Unturned brass, if there is runout, either one will still leave runout, could be inside or outside.
The 6BRs I have or had all seemed pretty good. Yet a skim turn to knock off the high spots usually showed some improvement.
My 22BR was supposed to be a no turn as was my 20BR. The 22 I did a skim turn on just to clean it up, but without over working the brass.
The 20BR had to have a heavy cut for clearance but has been a pure joy to work with.
Turning or skimming for a factory chambered gun may or may not do you any favors, from my findings.

I have mandrels but have went with a proper bushing for clearance and found no difference in using both.

Decap rods with expander ball, I makes sure and use lube inside.
 

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