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Crimping .308 for AR

first question) I’m trying to load .308 for my AR10, so I know I need at least some crimp. I have the Hornady custom grade dies, and I have 100 rounds seated with no issues. I tried to go back and crimp my seated rounds (because that’s what I’ve always done on my .223 RCBS) but I am very frustrated at this point. I have read the instructions and watched the Hornady video on YouTube 20 times now. On an unseated round, I am able to achieve roll crimp but on my seated rounds that I made with no crimp, going back and trying to crimp them only makes the shoulders bulge. At this point I am scared I’m going to have to disassemble 100 bullets and spend forever adjusting the die to seat and crimp in one stage. What am I doing wrong?! Using 125 grain FMJBT.

2nd question) Loading another batch with 150 grain FMJBT, I achieved good crimp in the cannelure but the Hornady says not to roll crimp if there’s no cannelure. However, my crimp in the cannelure puts my round WAY under the MIN OAL. I trimmed my case to the length the manual said but the powder im using says min oal is 2.800. Crimping in the cannelure puts my oal around 2.735. Can I disregard Hornadys YouTube channel and roll crimp under the cannelure to achieve good OAL or should I trash the bullets an start over?
 

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I don't crimp my 308 stuff for my autos. I have had zero issues I'm my AR10 and M1A. You can LIGHTLY crimp non-canneleur bullets if you want. Back your crimp off a tad.

That 2.800 is MAX length not minimum. You are fine on your length. The canneleur can be all over the place. Verify that you are not over MAX for the magazine and that you are not sticking the bullet in the lands

Greg
 
^^^^^ What he said, I have never had a issue with an M1A or AR10 where I had to crimp.
I set my cases up with .002 neck tension, ZERO reasons to do it if you are resizing your
cases correctly.
 
Well I don’t think the crimp needs to be so heavy that you can actually see it. In other words just enough to tighten them up. But I don’t crimp for my autoloaders either. I just use a little tighter neck tension.
 
Have you checked the OD of the necks of the case with the two different bullets? My guess is that the 125gr bullets are just big enough to catch the leading edge of the collet. .0005" interference and it pushes the neck instead of crimping it.
 
As you can see this like alot of reloading crimping is personal preference.... I do crimp slightly for an automatic... As far as crimping in the cannelure as stated above they are normally all over the place and since I do use them I want to crimp on them.... You do have some space but you will have to set the die up to crimp in it and not worry about the COAL.... IE just for fun , if you want 1.5 OAL and the crimp is 1.2 on the cannelure then if you want to use it you will be loading 1.2 instead of 1.5...

On small cases like 9mm if the bullet sets back deeper in the case then pressure goes up fast.... I have seen many .223 bullets driven into the brass so it can happen but it was a loading fault on the rifle and even with a light crimp in the cannelure I don't think it would have stopped the bullet from moving , it gets slammed hard in the action of a autoloader.... I have had it happen to me and just got lucky and cought it before pulling the trigger again....

My suggestion and exactly what I do is use a Lee factory crimp die in a separate step to achieve what crimp I want... It's just to easy to use and setup... Do not even try and seat and crimp in one step or you will have basically the same problem your having now with bulged stuff.... Setup your seating die then lock the lock ring where you can screw it in and out and not have to adjust it everytime.... Place a small piece of lead bird shot in the set screw and lock it down... Doing that you won't be stripping set screws.... Then of course use the Lee factory crimp die locked the same way last and your done..... This will allow you to unscrew and screw in your dies without having to make a bunch of adjustments other than maybe tightening it down with a wrench....

Honestly I use the tighten with a wrench to get an extra thousands if I need it if not I normally tighten my dies down in my single stage finger tight or ve ry lightly with a wrench.... I of course am not reloading for the nationals so I don't care about slight variations... If I don't want them I simply spend the time to lock everything down exactly were I want it.... Not to mention a BUNCH of other things to go along with it....For range ammo I don't care because I am using red dots or iron sights and can't see anymore anyway...
 
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