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Cortina EC tuner set screw

BarrySuperhawk

I have a NextGen EC Tuner Brake from Eric Cortina.

https://www.shootsmallgroups.com/product/next-gen-ec-tuner-brake/

I think it is great and it really works... Right up to the point where the set screw that holds the whole mess onto your barrel decides to go AWOL. That lets the whole brake twist and loosen as it will...which makes a previously accurate rifle suddenly become minute of barn.

So now I need to figure out what size this stupid little set screw was, so I can purchase a replacement or three. It's loss is 100% my fault because I always been paranoid about over tightening small set screws, so I didn't crank on it like I should have. I guess I'm lucky that it didn't get loose enough to shoot the tuner off the gun like happens with a misaligned suppressor.

And yes I've sent two emails to the company [Owned by Erik Cortina] but I haven't gotten any response, and I can't imagine that it would be cost-effective to mail one these little things, especially since it was my fault.

So this time it's going in with at least blue loctite, but I need to know what size it is. And just for reference I'm talking about the one in the back that holds the locking collar in place, not one of the two out front that hold the adjustment in place. However now that I think about it it stands to reason that they might be the same size so I have to investigate that.

My second question is is there such a thing as higher or lower quality set screws? Are they ones in a Chinesium assortment box appreciably worse than one that you would buy at a standard hardware store assuming they actually meet the specification?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Close as I can tell it's a 10-32x.125 long cup point set screw. Either Red Loctite or VMC-3 Vibra-Tite should hold it. You could try a standard steel set screw as the stainless ones are kinda soft and easy to strip the hex out.
 
Wow, first reply clearly stopped reading before the part where I already sent TWO emails requesting this information, but have not gotten any response. Then I get flamed for not knowing how to use a torque wrench on what might be a 10/32 set screw, (What exactly *IS* the torque spec on a 10/32 setscrew? Can I torque it to yield with a 3/8" or do I need a 1/2" inch with a breaker bar to achieve it?) ...by someone that ALSO clearly did not read the whole post where I simultaneously declared *I* was 100% at fault AND that I didn't think it was worth asking the MFR for replacements, thus my need for the actual thread spec so I could BUY MY OWN!

I had posted this question on another forum, but they didn't have many target shooters so they suggested I post here because it was likely alot more of you might use one of these and know the answer.

So, for the "cool" posters, thanks for the info, I will buy some 10/32 set screws and try them, and to the "other" posters, way to go welcoming the "new guy" I am sure after this interaction I will be inspired to participate in many more threads and maybe even pay actual $$ and become a contributor to support the site...
 
Is this an older tuner? I thought he got rid of the "tension screws" on his V2 design because everyone treated it like a set screw.
 
Purple loctite on screws under 1/4inch in diameter. Order on amazon. A set screw in red loctite will round your allen wrench. High heat will be required to loosen. You will need to chase the threads with a tap. Blue loctite beware. Im not sure why there would be a grade 8 set screw made for anything in 6/8/10 sizes.
 
BarrySuperhawk said:
Wow, first reply clearly stopped reading before the part where I already sent TWO emails requesting this information, but have not gotten any response. Then I get flamed for not knowing how to use a torque wrench on what might be a 10/32 set screw, (What exactly *IS* the torque spec on a 10/32 setscrew? Can I torque it to yield with a 3/8" or do I need a 1/2" inch with a breaker bar to achieve it?) ...by someone that ALSO clearly did not read the whole post where I simultaneously declared *I* was 100% at fault AND that I didn't think it was worth asking the MFR for replacements, thus my need for the actual thread spec so I could BUY MY OWN!

I had posted this question on another forum, but they didn't have many target shooters so they suggested I post here because it was likely alot more of you might use one of these and know the answer.

So, for the "cool" posters, thanks for the info, I will buy some 10/32 set screws and try them, and to the "other" posters, way to go welcoming the "new guy" I am sure after this interaction I will be inspired to participate in many more threads and maybe even pay actual $$ and become a contributor to support the site...
Click to expand...
New guy???? You joined in 2017
 
BarrySuperhawk said:
Wow, first reply clearly stopped reading before the part where I already sent TWO emails requesting this information, but have not gotten any response. Then I get flamed for not knowing how to use a torque wrench on what might be a 10/32 set screw, (What exactly *IS* the torque spec on a 10/32 setscrew? Can I torque it to yield with a 3/8" or do I need a 1/2" inch with a breaker bar to achieve it?) ...by someone that ALSO clearly did not read the whole post where I simultaneously declared *I* was 100% at fault AND that I didn't think it was worth asking the MFR for replacements, thus my need for the actual thread spec so I could BUY MY OWN!

I had posted this question on another forum, but they didn't have many target shooters so they suggested I post here because it was likely alot more of you might use one of these and know the answer.

So, for the "cool" posters, thanks for the info, I will buy some 10/32 set screws and try them, and to the "other" posters, way to go welcoming the "new guy" I am sure after this interaction I will be inspired to participate in many more threads and maybe even pay actual $$ and become a contributor to support the site...
Click to expand...
I usually just take my parts into the hardware store. There’s always a little thing on the wall that has all the male/female/std/metric threads. After matching the threads I can usually find the part.

Not sure if it’s one of those screws with plastic on the end that doesn’t mess up threads, a tension screw?
 
Looks like you got the size from another poster, so your’size’ question is answered. Red loctite is fine.Some heat liquifies it easily. Since you like to attack answers, I’ll just tell you to look up the proper inch pound torque for that size. Easy.
 
J.d. Popkes said:
I usually just take my parts into the hardware store. There’s always a little thing on the wall that has all the male/female/std/metric threads. After matching the threads I can usually find the part.

Not sure if it’s one of those screws with plastic on the end that doesn’t mess up threads, a tension screw?
Click to expand...
If it is one of the screws with nylon on the end and you cant find one you can use a small piece of lead shot under the screw, just make sure if the end of the screw is pointe you grind off some of the point.
 
ridgeway said:
Get quality set screws from McMaster and get the grade 8 alloy steel. If they are stainless, they will be soft and prone to stripping cup and galling if brake is stainless. Not familiar with design, but relying on a setscrew to hold it all together is a little iffy, IMO.
Click to expand...
I got some similar set screws with brass tips from McMaster for my loading dies
I recommend those
1754613909860.png
 
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