Coroplast targets for shotmarkers?

[F Class John]

Can the adjustments be made at home after the shooting when a target be studied and measured more closely?

I think you're misunderstanding what I'm saying. It's basically a way of tricking the system to make all the bullet holes goes into, let's say the top of the 7 ring even though you're aiming at the X. But on screen it'll show you that you're hitting the X but of course you have to adjust your come-up to adjust for the variance. Like I said before, it's hard for people to wrap their brain around when starting but when you get used to it it's amazing. I'll take pics tomorrow and do a better visual write up. Heck, I'll just make a whole video on my targets and post it up later tomorrow night when I get home.

 

[PatMiles]

I get what you are saying about spoofing the system in regards to preserving the centered aiming point rather than it being shot out.
I'll wait for your video.
Thanks.

 

[Mudeat]

I think you're misunderstanding what I'm saying. It's basically a way of tricking the system to make all the bullet holes goes into, let's say the top of the 7 ring even though you're aiming at the X. But on screen it'll show you that you're hitting the X but of course you have to adjust your come-up to adjust for the variance. Like I said before, it's hard for people to wrap their brain around when starting but when you get used to it it's amazing. I'll take pics tomorrow and do a better visual write up. Heck, I'll just make a whole video on my targets and post it up later tomorrow night when I get home.

Why not just put another repair face on? Seams simple. Done all the time for decades. No need for foo foo.

 

[F Class John]

Why not just put another repair face on? Seams simple. Done all the time for decades. No need for foo foo.

Well mainly because even on a single day, the centers would get shot out after the first couple relays. This way you can shoot the entire day without having to go cold and head to the pits to change faces. Plus for us, we shoot 63 times a year at 600yds under cover so that means wind, rain and snow which all tend to have their own fun with target faces. By using corex(coreplast) targets and by using an offset center like we do, we stay under cover, never lose a target to weather and run matches without an issue and countless trips to the pits. I'm not saying it's the only way, just the way that works for me (and others I know at other ranges) to make for a smooth day at the range and plenty of happy shooters.

 

[MikeMcCasland]

Here's what John is talking about.

You can input an "offset" into the Shotmarker, and it'll allow you to preserve your aiming point. This example is pretty mild; it would be smarter to put more offset into it, but it was working for my purposes that day.




This target is the aftermath of 120 rounds, shot like I would shoot two full 60rd matches.

On the shotmarker system, it was showing me 10s and Xs (I might have dropped a 9 or two as well ) but it allowed me to preserve enough of the X/10 ring for wind holds etc.

Again, this is a mild example. If you were to do it right, you'd increase the offset and have it impacting totally off the ringed target.

Keep in mind, the shotmarker doesn't care what the physical target shows. It's always going to align you to what it thinks is the center of it's calibrated area. So long as your calibration and sensor mounting are good, you can just adjust the offset and it'll score it accurately, while allowing you to preserve your target face.

The whole reason for doing this is to avoid having to go down range and put up new repair centers.

 

[Mudeat]

We don’t see this offset used for across-the-course, mid-range, or long-range high power sling shooting as the shooters object to having one more thing to go wrong ( offset sight adjust from carefully tuned zeroes).

 

[F Class John]

Sorry this took so long. I left my camera at the range last Tuesday after filming it and finally got back to pick it up today. Hope this help some of you.

 

[Fairchaser]

Sorry this took so long. I left my camera at the range last Tuesday after filming it and finally got back to pick it up today. Hope this help some of you.

Have you thought about switching the offset from high to low at some point. This would essentially double the life of the targets boards. Also, I’ve heard about using some sort of self healing rubber in the center for a permanent solution but haven’t seen anything myself.

 

[F Class John]

Have you thought about switching the offset from high to low at some point. This would essentially double the life of the targets boards. Also, I’ve heard about using some sort of self healing rubber in the center for a permanent solution but haven’t seen anything myself.

No I've never looked at flipping the offset although it would probably work as you said except we usually keep using cover stickers for the 10/x ring until it's basically not stickerable anymore so whether it's high or low the target becomes unusable. As for self healing, I tried some stuff in the beginning and it was all a giant pita and not worth the effort for my particular situation.

 

[LeoHuhta]

Here in Minnesota we are very fortunate to have a custom packaging company close by.
They use allot of corroplast for some of their boxes.
We have them start with 6MM plastic 4 x 6 sheets and we have them cut a 12” circle offset just like F Class John has explained.
Then in the winter when we cleanup all our targets we replace the 12” cutout with new ones and duct tape them in place.
So far we are three years into the main corroplast sheets and I see many more years of use on the main sheet.
We special ordered 6x6 sheets for the 600 yrd High Power backers. We don’t offset our HP targets just the F class ones but they all have the replaceable 12” centers.
It cost some money to get setup this way but in the long run it looks like it was the correct decision.
Finding a company in your area might be a challenge that can cut the plastic sheets though.
Leo

 

[DirtySteve]

I use a cloroplast center for mine at home. It slides into a frame, which has a stop so it is in the same stop every time and a binder clip to hold it in place. I have centers printed on sticky paper, I believe the print shop referred to it as, crack and peel.

My range set up has been an evolution. Still need to get my range flags up.