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Coroplast for 600 and 1000 yd. target backer question

BobLor

Is anyone using Coroplast as a backer for your targets, if so where did you find 6 foot by 6 foot sheets? And what do you use to glue the target faces to the Coroplast?
Thanks,
bob L
 
I use roll on contact adhesive....no peeling after several months but I have not had a soaking of the target center yet...just light rain. I could not source 6x6 sheets so I cut a couple of 4x6 sheets. No sign makers in my city knew of any sources for 6x6. Perhaps Don Diffey out of Bayou Rifles knows....if it exists, Don has likely found a source.
 
rardoin said:
I use roll on contact adhesive....no peeling after several months but I have not had a soaking of the target center yet...just light rain. I could not source 6x6 sheets so I cut a couple of 4x6 sheets. No sign makers in my city knew of any sources for 6x6. Perhaps Don Diffey out of Bayou Rifles knows....if it exists, Don has likely found a source.
Click to expand...

Rardoin, what brand of roll on Contact adhesive are you using? And can you move the target, a full face 6x6 foot target, around on the coroplast or is it once the paper target touches the adhesive it is not moving.
bob L
 
Bob, I don't recall and I left the can in the pit storage area at the range so I don't have access at the moment. It was a gallon container used for adhering laminate to countertops...the usual rubber based variety. I have tried the 3-M stray on contact adhesive but it was difficult to get a uniform layer on the board (at least in my hands) and the target center would lift in areas. I think any rubber adhesive for laminates would work. I applied it with a 6" low knap roller. One issue is that once the target is applied you cannot move it; it must be in the final position when it contacts the backer.

Robin
 
4x8 standard 5x10 is avail but nothing larger in my research. You can get different thickness 4mil standard 6,8mil. You can also specify direction of the flutes (ribs) this is helpful if use them in full sheets. Hope this helps.
At our club we would cut 4x8 join pieces by gluing to pieces top and bottom on back along seam and across to stuffed. 4mil is fine.
3M dbl sided tape 5952 1" wide or Sikiflex 11FC sealer adhesive can't be beat ..
Hope it helps
 
My local range uses cloroplast for backer board at its BR range, people use the self adhesive type targets and they seem to stick pretty good. Some stick forever, while others seem to peel off very easy in all weather conditions. I use a staple gun for paper, if new, the cloroplast holds well, if shot up pretty bad, not so much.
 
3M 90 contact spray adhesive. Staple the target to the coroplast along the top edge. Roll the target up, and spray the adhesive on the coroplast. Unroll the target, using a wallpaper brush to press it down as you go.
 
When a shot out hole develops in the coroplast, I glue a 12-16” square piece of target canvas over the hole, put a new center on, and am back in business.
 
I’ve used them for my club for over a year now. Great in the weather too. 4x8 as everyone says is the ticket and I just go to my local sign shop and he orders it. Dirt cheap from sign guys usually compared to anywhere else. Now I’m using them for my e-targets as well. Would be tough to get my back to using cardboard backers.
 

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rardoin said:
Doug, educate me...what is 'target canvas'?

Robin
Click to expand...
That’s an excellent question. I inherited management of a 50 year old Highpower program, and with the exception of a half dozen e targets, all of our target backers are canvas. It’s a medium weight, buff colored canvas on 6’ rolls. I have about 3/4ths of a roll left, probably at least 30 years old. When it’s gone, I’ll probably go to cardboard, or coroplast exclusively, though canvas has its advantages.
 
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I'm not sure what your target looks like so I may be out in left field?
But here it goes if you took a 4x8 sheet and cut 2' from the 8' end and put it
on the end of the 4' wouldn't that work? Maybe masking tape over the joint?
 
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