Copper Fouling

[Quackaddict]

Hey guys, Ive got a Remington 700 in 243 win that I cant get the copper fouling to come out of the barrel. The tube is factory and has about 400 rounds through it. It shoots better when its clean but Im tired of spending 3 hours running Copper solvent and carbon cleaner through it.

Are there any treatments you can plug the barrel with and let sit overnight?

Has anyone done any work with the tubbs finish bullets? I have read that thye cut the fouling way down, and to be honest this rifle is only about a 3/4 moa rifle as it sits.

I eventually want to rebarrel but I want to do some other stuff before that happens.

Thank you guys for your replies!

 

[15Tango]

KG-12 is good and if that won't work JB Paste WILL. Don't be scared of the JB, it's an awesome thing.

Wayne

 

[jonbearman]

sWEETS 7.62 COPPER REMOVER IS REALLY AGGRESSIVE. You can leave it in the barrel no more than 25 minutes.I recommend 15 mins or less. It will wake you up too,because it smells like smelling salts.It does a tremendous job when used to the letter.I cleaned a rem barrel in .270 that hadnt been cleaned since 1975.It looked horrible,but after a few attempts with sweets ,it looked like a brand new bore. Jb bore paste works real good and I use that too. Montana extremes copper solvent,especially the 50bmg formula. Just follow the instructions and you will not hurt the barrel.When you are done cleaning,I use brake clean or bore scrubber and flush the heck out of the barrel and locking lug area and blow it out with compressed air .Then go to hoppes or whatever and wet patch it and dry it out and do it again to make sure you clean the ammonia salts out of the barrel.Then run a wet patch of highest quality gun oil down the barrel.When you go out to shoot it ,dry patch it to take out the excess oil. Hope this helps.

 

[bingo1010]

run the tubbs final finish through it. i did it to the wifes 280 and the barrel machine marks are gone ( borescoped). it now cleans much easier, virtually no copper. you will have to jump your powder a bit to keep the same velocity. but it does work as advertised.

 

[RonAKA]

I have a difficult bore of unknown heritage, that copper fouls quite quickly. I use Barnes CR-10 on patches wrapped around a nylon brush. It will come clean (no blue) in about 7-8 patches. It takes 15-20 minutes. The secret is ammonia. Follow that with a dry patch, and then a conventional universal cleaner that does not have ammonia, but does have some residual oil. Sweets 7.62 is probably just as good as the Barnes CR-10. They both have ammonia.

 

[Kenny474]

I have used Tubb final finish a few times. It will eat a bit of throat, but the bore will clean easier and it has improved accuracy as well.

If it's a .75MOA rifle, jus go for it, I doubt you will regret it.

 

[fx77]

Gun Tests evaluated Cu removers and found Montnna Extreme 50 BMG to be the best.

There is an Outers System which is used with a rod in the barrel all night and electrolytically removes Cu.

Tony Boyer (BR Hall of Fame) recommends Wipeout and Accelerator.

 

[superlight93]

KG-12 is good and if that won't work JB Paste WILL. Don't be scared of the JB, it's an awesome thing.

Wayne

KG-12 works great with proven results using a bore scope.

 

[whiskey08]

theres a couple of articles floating around on brownell's website that looks interesting.

this one is sweets but ive seen the same recipie with hoppes instead of sweets
also dont forget the ever popular standby- jb bore paste

1) SWEETS 7.62

Sweets is used in our in our cleaning procedures only as a bore lubricant prior
to pushing the brush through the barrel. Sweets is composed of mostly large soap
molecules similar to household dishwashing detergents. Because of the lubricity
provided by the soap in the Sweets it allows the brush to easily slide through
the bore on its first pass. Not to mention removing all of the loose powder and
carbon residue left in the barrel prior to cleaning.

NOTE: Sweets can also be used in extreme cases of copper fouling. The procedure
in this worst case scenario is as follows.
A) Brush the barrel with Sweets (kiss brush good-bye).
B) Let bore soak 5 to 10 minutes (No Longer on Chrome Molly Barrels. Sweets and
CM don’t get along very well together for very long).
C) Now soak a patch with HYDROGEN PEROXCIDE and very, very slowly push it
through the bore. A chemical reaction will take place between the Ammonia in the
Sweets and the Hydrogen Peroxide causing all copper to go into suspension as the
reaction takes place. The muzzle of your rifle will look as if it has rabies as
the patch slowly nears the crown and you see all of the foaming reaction that is
taking place. The blue green colors you see as the patch exits the barrel will
amaze you.
D) Inspect the bore after you patch it out with Butches(see below), by placing a
Q-Tip just inside the crown. This will light up the bore and allow you to check
for any remaining copper. If there are still traces of copper a second
application will usually finish the job.
E) At this point you should clean the barrel a described below. If the barrels
is chrome moly, we recommend that it be put up using SPEEDY’S FORMULA also
described below. The black powder solvent portion of the formula will protect
the bore from any rusting or pitting as it does black powder flintlocks or cap &
ball long rifles

 

[artbosco]

Ive got a Remington 700 in 243 win that I cant get the copper fouling to come out of the barrel.

Three to Five tight fitting patches with JB Bore Cleaning Compound each and every time you clean, hopefully after 30-50 rounds, will do the job. Clean first, then JB, then clean again to get the JB out. Five patches initially, for awhile, should get the old copper out. Eventually, a new custom stainless steel barrel will make a huge difference.

This is a method that has helped a lot of folks with break in and cleaning: http://benchrest.netfirms.com/Barrel%20Break-In.htm